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-   -   Seized wheel cylinders 1940 DeSoto (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/seized-wheel-cylinders-1940-desoto-227271.html)

67Elcamino 12-17-2012 10:40 AM

Seized wheel cylinders 1940 DeSoto
 
I purchased wheel cylinder rebuilt kits for my 40 Desoto coupe and when I took out the wheel cylinder they where heavily stuck. Does anybody know of a trick to unstick them? I was thinking of dipping them in WD40 for a couple of days. Im trying to avoid buying the entire cylinder ($75 each) If I was keeping the brake system stock I wouldnt mind but just trying to get the car on the road in order to test the Engine and Tranny before I decided to keep it all stock and sell it or start customizing it

poncho62 12-17-2012 11:04 AM

The penetrating oil will help..I would remove them from the backing plate, put them in a vise. You should be able to knock the rubbers etc out with a punch.

cobalt327 12-17-2012 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67Elcamino (Post 1623749)
I purchased wheel cylinder rebuilt kits for my 40 Desoto coupe and when I took out the wheel cylinder they where heavily stuck. Does anybody know of a trick to unstick them? I was thinking of dipping them in WD40 for a couple of days. Im trying to avoid buying the entire cylinder ($75 each) If I was keeping the brake system stock I wouldnt mind but just trying to get the car on the road in order to test the Engine and Tranny before I decided to keep it all stock and sell it or start customizing it

You should be able to soak them w/penetrant (PB Blaster works very good for this) by giving them a shot every so often and let them sit for a few hours. Shoot the penetrant in through the bleeder/brake line so it's on both sides of the piston. Heat can help loosen them as well. But if the pistons are steel, they can be well and truly stuck. Aluminum will come out one way or the other- it may be in pieces.

Don't be afraid to take a heavy brass drift and hammer to them. One way or the other the pistons have to come out, so do what you have to- just don't hit the bore w/a steel tool. Other than that, have at it. There's not really much you can do that will hurt them short of using a sledge hammer on them. I'd remove the bleeder so there's no chance it'll get broken off in the process.

RWENUTS 12-17-2012 01:29 PM

If they're that corroded up you can't get the piston and rubbers out then the bore will need more honing than your new parts will work with. Bite the bullet and get new cylinders.

MARTINSR 12-17-2012 02:32 PM

Make up your mind what you are going to do. If you are going to leave it stock, and have a ball driving a 70 year old car as it was made, which is really a kick, then buy new wheel cylinders. If you can't imagine driving an old car that compared to a late model car has very low power and not very good handling and poor brakes, then swap it all out for what you want. I drive a similar car every day, stone stock and I love it, but it isn't for everyone. Short trips or on a longer trip taking your time at low speeds. I LOVE driving this car every day, but it may not be for you.

Make up your mind and do it, I bought rebuild kits for my car and pulled them apart and said no way, they were pitted, they were not rebuildable. My life is worth more than that and I bought new ones. Now, mine were extensive like that too. Until I spent the time and tracked down the proper part number and called the parts store that I get most of my stuff at here in town, a REAL parts store. They had them in stock! And they were something like $10 each. :D This may happen to you, or you spend the $70 each and you have brakes that work. If you plan on driving this car I would replace all the lines and hoses too. They make a new brake line that is a dark green color, you can bend it by hand real easy without kinking it. Most every piece you will find is a standard length or close enough. If it's too short you add a piece and most real parts stores will even flare it for you. If it's a tad too long you just make it work with a larger loop or bend or something. I put all new parts in my car before I drove and I am damn glad I did. They had the master cyl in stock too!

If you are going to leave it stock just do it all and get it over with so you don't have to think about it.

Brian

Supercharged03 12-17-2012 08:42 PM

Any kind of penetrating oil will contaminate your brake cylinders and make them worthless. The only thing you can safely soak your cylinders in is brake fluid. Best to take the replacement advice offered here.

cobalt327 12-17-2012 10:01 PM

Penetrant can be removed from cast iron w/o leaving any harmful residue.

He already has the kits. No harm in taking the slaves down to see what he has. Likely they're not going to be usable, but there's only one way I know of to find out for sure...

gearheadslife 12-18-2012 05:22 AM

dip them in pb blaster, and work them free.. a socket in the bore and a c clamp works good.. and less chance of breaking the pistons..
once they are moving, use brass punch and hammer..
hone and rebuild.. easy..
no need for new.. unless you want new,,

67Elcamino 12-18-2012 09:43 AM

Thank You Brian, you always have good advise. I did soak them in WD40 and used a vice to press them out. The front ones weren't as bad as I thought but the rear one I ended up buying the complete cylinder.

Also thank you for the body work advise on my last project. The paint came out pretty close to show car condition. I'll need to post some pics of the completed job on that forum


Quote:

Originally Posted by MARTINSR (Post 1623845)
Make up your mind what you are going to do. If you are going to leave it stock, and have a ball driving a 70 year old car as it was made, which is really a kick, then buy new wheel cylinders. If you can't imagine driving an old car that compared to a late model car has very low power and not very good handling and poor brakes, then swap it all out for what you want. I drive a similar car every day, stone stock and I love it, but it isn't for everyone. Short trips or on a longer trip taking your time at low speeds. I LOVE driving this car every day, but it may not be for you.

Make up your mind and do it, I bought rebuild kits for my car and pulled them apart and said no way, they were pitted, they were not rebuildable. My life is worth more than that and I bought new ones. Now, mine were extensive like that too. Until I spent the time and tracked down the proper part number and called the parts store that I get most of my stuff at here in town, a REAL parts store. They had them in stock! And they were something like $10 each. :D This may happen to you, or you spend the $70 each and you have brakes that work. If you plan on driving this car I would replace all the lines and hoses too. They make a new brake line that is a dark green color, you can bend it by hand real easy without kinking it. Most every piece you will find is a standard length or close enough. If it's too short you add a piece and most real parts stores will even flare it for you. If it's a tad too long you just make it work with a larger loop or bend or something. I put all new parts in my car before I drove and I am damn glad I did. They had the master cyl in stock too!

If you are going to leave it stock just do it all and get it over with so you don't have to think about it.

Brian



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