Seized wheel cylinders 1940 DeSoto - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 10:40 AM
67Elcamino's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: west covina, ca
Posts: 352
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Seized wheel cylinders 1940 DeSoto

I purchased wheel cylinder rebuilt kits for my 40 Desoto coupe and when I took out the wheel cylinder they where heavily stuck. Does anybody know of a trick to unstick them? I was thinking of dipping them in WD40 for a couple of days. Im trying to avoid buying the entire cylinder ($75 each) If I was keeping the brake system stock I wouldnt mind but just trying to get the car on the road in order to test the Engine and Tranny before I decided to keep it all stock and sell it or start customizing it

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 11:04 AM
poncho62's Avatar
Out of the Loop Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Streetbeasts links
Last journal entry: at car show
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hanover, Ontario, Canada
Age: 62
Posts: 16,857
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 20
Thanked 246 Times in 200 Posts
The penetrating oil will help..I would remove them from the backing plate, put them in a vise. You should be able to knock the rubbers etc out with a punch.
__________________
Ontario Rodders
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 01:10 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
I purchased wheel cylinder rebuilt kits for my 40 Desoto coupe and when I took out the wheel cylinder they where heavily stuck. Does anybody know of a trick to unstick them? I was thinking of dipping them in WD40 for a couple of days. Im trying to avoid buying the entire cylinder ($75 each) If I was keeping the brake system stock I wouldnt mind but just trying to get the car on the road in order to test the Engine and Tranny before I decided to keep it all stock and sell it or start customizing it
You should be able to soak them w/penetrant (PB Blaster works very good for this) by giving them a shot every so often and let them sit for a few hours. Shoot the penetrant in through the bleeder/brake line so it's on both sides of the piston. Heat can help loosen them as well. But if the pistons are steel, they can be well and truly stuck. Aluminum will come out one way or the other- it may be in pieces.

Don't be afraid to take a heavy brass drift and hammer to them. One way or the other the pistons have to come out, so do what you have to- just don't hit the bore w/a steel tool. Other than that, have at it. There's not really much you can do that will hurt them short of using a sledge hammer on them. I'd remove the bleeder so there's no chance it'll get broken off in the process.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 01:29 PM
RWENUTS's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada
Age: 62
Posts: 1,869
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 46
Thanked 199 Times in 188 Posts
If they're that corroded up you can't get the piston and rubbers out then the bore will need more honing than your new parts will work with. Bite the bullet and get new cylinders.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 02:32 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,006
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 711
Thanked 1,078 Times in 961 Posts
Make up your mind what you are going to do. If you are going to leave it stock, and have a ball driving a 70 year old car as it was made, which is really a kick, then buy new wheel cylinders. If you can't imagine driving an old car that compared to a late model car has very low power and not very good handling and poor brakes, then swap it all out for what you want. I drive a similar car every day, stone stock and I love it, but it isn't for everyone. Short trips or on a longer trip taking your time at low speeds. I LOVE driving this car every day, but it may not be for you.

Make up your mind and do it, I bought rebuild kits for my car and pulled them apart and said no way, they were pitted, they were not rebuildable. My life is worth more than that and I bought new ones. Now, mine were extensive like that too. Until I spent the time and tracked down the proper part number and called the parts store that I get most of my stuff at here in town, a REAL parts store. They had them in stock! And they were something like $10 each. This may happen to you, or you spend the $70 each and you have brakes that work. If you plan on driving this car I would replace all the lines and hoses too. They make a new brake line that is a dark green color, you can bend it by hand real easy without kinking it. Most every piece you will find is a standard length or close enough. If it's too short you add a piece and most real parts stores will even flare it for you. If it's a tad too long you just make it work with a larger loop or bend or something. I put all new parts in my car before I drove and I am damn glad I did. They had the master cyl in stock too!

If you are going to leave it stock just do it all and get it over with so you don't have to think about it.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 08:42 PM
Dimwit
 

Last journal entry: S10 fabrication (cont'd)
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Friendswood, TX
Posts: 100
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 12
Thanked 12 Times in 12 Posts
Any kind of penetrating oil will contaminate your brake cylinders and make them worthless. The only thing you can safely soak your cylinders in is brake fluid. Best to take the replacement advice offered here.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 10:01 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Penetrant can be removed from cast iron w/o leaving any harmful residue.

He already has the kits. No harm in taking the slaves down to see what he has. Likely they're not going to be usable, but there's only one way I know of to find out for sure...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 05:22 AM
gearheadslife's Avatar
MentalMuffinMan
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,059
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 85
Thanked 228 Times in 215 Posts
dip them in pb blaster, and work them free.. a socket in the bore and a c clamp works good.. and less chance of breaking the pistons..
once they are moving, use brass punch and hammer..
hone and rebuild.. easy..
no need for new.. unless you want new,,
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 09:43 AM
67Elcamino's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: west covina, ca
Posts: 352
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Thank You Brian, you always have good advise. I did soak them in WD40 and used a vice to press them out. The front ones weren't as bad as I thought but the rear one I ended up buying the complete cylinder.

Also thank you for the body work advise on my last project. The paint came out pretty close to show car condition. I'll need to post some pics of the completed job on that forum


Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Make up your mind what you are going to do. If you are going to leave it stock, and have a ball driving a 70 year old car as it was made, which is really a kick, then buy new wheel cylinders. If you can't imagine driving an old car that compared to a late model car has very low power and not very good handling and poor brakes, then swap it all out for what you want. I drive a similar car every day, stone stock and I love it, but it isn't for everyone. Short trips or on a longer trip taking your time at low speeds. I LOVE driving this car every day, but it may not be for you.

Make up your mind and do it, I bought rebuild kits for my car and pulled them apart and said no way, they were pitted, they were not rebuildable. My life is worth more than that and I bought new ones. Now, mine were extensive like that too. Until I spent the time and tracked down the proper part number and called the parts store that I get most of my stuff at here in town, a REAL parts store. They had them in stock! And they were something like $10 each. This may happen to you, or you spend the $70 each and you have brakes that work. If you plan on driving this car I would replace all the lines and hoses too. They make a new brake line that is a dark green color, you can bend it by hand real easy without kinking it. Most every piece you will find is a standard length or close enough. If it's too short you add a piece and most real parts stores will even flare it for you. If it's a tad too long you just make it work with a larger loop or bend or something. I put all new parts in my car before I drove and I am damn glad I did. They had the master cyl in stock too!

If you are going to leave it stock just do it all and get it over with so you don't have to think about it.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to 67Elcamino For This Useful Post:
MARTINSR (12-18-2012)

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
12 volt conversion on 1940 desoto 67Elcamino Electrical 5 01-17-2012 01:17 PM
1940 Desoto front end replacement usmc72 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 8 01-17-2012 10:19 AM
Wheel Studs on 1940 Desoto mile-hightoyz Suspension - Brakes - Steering 3 09-12-2004 08:34 PM
1940 Desoto Sedan Parts? mile-hightoyz Suspension - Brakes - Steering 8 05-31-2004 11:32 AM
1940 DeSoto HEARTBREAKKID Hotrodders' Lounge 13 10-12-2002 04:03 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.