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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2009, 09:08 PM
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Continuing the hijack, acetone will suffer from the same two major flaws as lacquer thinner, namely that can dry too fast to be picked up by a second wipe on all but the smallest panels, and it can melt contaminants into some substrates where they can cause adhesion loss.

A gallon of material specially designed for pre-finish cleaning can be had for less than $25. THAT is what you call cheap insurance against finish failure due to a contaminated surface.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2009, 04:56 AM
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THAT,is the BEST advice I've heard yet,listen to crash he's absolutly right then scrub your OSPHO in to etch .couldn't help myself,SORRY........
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Old 05-13-2009, 05:17 AM
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HERES a very cheep test........get a ten dollar bottle of OSPHO read the directions use it on a piece of metal then epoxy it,then just epoxy another piece wait a couple days for the epoxy to cure then sand each to the metal one will feather beautifilly one will have jagged edges from a poor adheation ,Ive done this test myself and posted the results,I'm not a sales man for OSPHO I've just used everything on the market and this is ,hands down the best. I dont know why people that havent used it say this misleading crap about it ,around here we just laugh at them (east coast) But dont take anyones word on something so important ,try the test and see for yourself,I have 11yr old paint jobs that still look like they were done last week and got pics to prove it ,just dont waste your money on etching primer and metal conditioners(alchol & water) I hate to see the big boys getting rich,ripping people off.NOBODY recomends anything they dont make themselves ,Hmmmmm
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Old 05-13-2009, 12:40 PM
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I will add that to my list of things to get when I go to the paint shop to get the last of what I need.

1 bottle of OSPHO

Does that stand for something???
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Old 05-13-2009, 07:07 PM
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heck ,I dont know.I never read the directions till recently,just did it the way I was taught.Now its my turn to teach.I will say this READ the directions,very important ,like anything if you misuse it you'll have trouble.Before you epoxy prime,contact me,its very important its done right but when done right that epoxy can be hammerd ,beat down,heated up,whatever,but it will not let go of the metal.I'll tell you something else,I've used every kind of epoxy primer out there and you just cant beat SPI even if you spend three times the price.Just remember to let it cure however long it takes.I use my fingernail,if it dents the primer its not cured,simple.
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Old 05-13-2009, 09:55 PM
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Does that stand for something???
Orthophosphoric acid

Deadbodyman, gonna PM you in a minute.
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Old 05-29-2009, 03:49 PM
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epoxy vs metal etch

try taking a bare fender spray half with epoxy half with metal etch leave outside in rainy weather i done this epoxy was sherwin dp800 metal etch nason the epoxy showed rust in 2 days etch 2 weeks and no signs of rust yet
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Old 05-29-2009, 09:20 PM
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etching primer IS better than nothing. Etching with ospho and scuff pad is so much better and cheaper.Ten bucks for the best way , seventy-five bucks to do second best way,it dosen't add up in my "old math" book but it is much,much easier and faster.Try the same test with just ospho over bare metal with NO primer ,outside in the weather,it wont rust either thats why I use it on ALL my resto work that gets striped which would be all the resto work......BTW allways wear gloves when working on bare metal,the oils and moisture will give you problems
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Old 05-30-2009, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swoopy1969
try taking a bare fender spray half with epoxy half with metal etch leave outside in rainy weather i done this epoxy was sherwin dp800 metal etch nason the epoxy showed rust in 2 days etch 2 weeks and no signs of rust yet

While this may have happened to you..something is WRONG
I use Epoxy primer on bare metal ALL the time....cars left out and NEVER have rust issues
Something is Up with the prep work
Epoxy primer wil not do that if prepped properly

52F1
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Old 05-30-2009, 01:07 PM
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Well said,I've even seen a test someone thought they doing,but the test was destined for failure from the very start because the man doing the test did everything wrong (no experiance)Another one that simpliy refuses to listen and thinks he knows more than pros.Here's something to keep in mind,If you see someone doing a test on bare metal without surgical gloves,they know nothing,dont waste your time.
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Old 05-30-2009, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 52F1
While this may have happened to you..something is WRONG
I use Epoxy primer on bare metal ALL the time....cars left out and NEVER have rust issues
Something is Up with the prep work
Epoxy primer wil not do that if prepped properly

52F1
I agree. Sounds to me like the Epoxy was not applied with enough build.
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:48 PM
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IIRC this XXX skunk weapon was done a couple years ago in epoxy
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2009, 07:51 PM
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maybe mixed as told 8 parts primer 4 parts thinner 1 part hardner might be brand but no sht surface rust next day sandblasted and used da with 80 grit before spraying
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Old 05-31-2009, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swoopy1969
maybe mixed as told 8 parts primer 4 parts thinner 1 part hardner might be brand but no sht surface rust next day sandblasted and used da with 80 grit before spraying
all the epoxies I've used were 1-1 primer-hardner,no thinner but can be reduced a little with urathane reducer even nason,read directions for yourself next time and you might save yourself some trouble,if mixing ratios are coverd with old paint drips ,wipe with thinner ,sometimes this works. But ya screwed up,it's all part of the learning prosses,and if your lucky you'll screw something else up tomorrow.Thats how you get good,in my book.Its not the problems that are important,Its the solutions
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Old 05-31-2009, 11:43 AM
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thanks ibought sherwin williams dimension for some reason they dont give any mixing ratios or directions of any kind on there products.i did notice it dried very slow ill check paints store monday they may have told me wrong
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