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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2005, 09:56 AM
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cover

Doc here,

I would cut the cover...If it comes to that....

The cover is made of tin...The chain is hardened steel...about a 1/2 thick and 2 or so inches wide...unless you have some SERIOUS bolt cutters...and lift peterbuilt blocks for drill...your going to have problems...

ANOTHER option...is you can get a steel hole saw and drill (like a hole punch for a door lock..on a house door) about 3 or 4 inches in diameter...and about where the cam gear bolts up to the cam, drill out the hole...then remove the cam bolts..slide the gear and chain as well as the cover off along with removing the crank from the block...you'll still have to either get the balancer and cover off, but it will be out of the block....or take it to the machine shop and let them do it.

Either way you go..you'll have to replace the cover, if you can't get the balancer off...which I would expend my energy there first, before going to cutting things up...(unless your at that point now.)

Doc

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2005, 10:09 AM
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[QUOTE=docvette]Doc here,
The cover is made of tin...The chain is hardened steel...about a 1/2 thick and 2 or so inches wide...unless you have some SERIOUS bolt cutters...and lift peterbuilt blocks for drill...your going to have problems...[QUOTE]
Its only 1/4 inch thick, I hope a 36 in bolt cutter will do it!

I'm honestly tired of trying to get the balancer off, this is my 4th day messing with it and I want to get the block to the machine shop on mon or tues.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2005, 10:15 AM
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[QUOTE=spyderdude][QUOTE=docvette]Doc here,
The cover is made of tin...The chain is hardened steel...about a 1/2 thick and 2 or so inches wide...unless you have some SERIOUS bolt cutters...and lift peterbuilt blocks for drill...your going to have problems...
Quote:
Its only 1/4 inch thick, I hope a 36 in bolt cutter will do it!

I'm honestly tired of trying to get the balancer off, this is my 4th day messing with it and I want to get the block to the machine shop on mon or tues.
Well, you made a mistake and now you need to rectify it. If you get impatient you are liable to cause yourself more grief.

I agree with Doc, I would go back to trying to remove the balancer...use a little heat and workit out.

If you can cut that chain, more power to you, but you would probably better off cutting the cover if you still can't get the balancer off.

Good luck!
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Old 06-04-2005, 11:14 AM
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You messed up so what. Youll never make that mistake again.
Youre gettin in over your head you just dont have the right tools to fix this problem.

Take it to a shop they can pull the damper in about 5 minutes. Theyll put the puller on there, use an impact instead of a breaker bar, or even better yet a hydraulic puller. Problem solved.
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Old 06-04-2005, 11:48 AM
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show me/ us a picture or 3
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2005, 12:10 PM
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I think its ok now, I took the bolt cutter to the timing cover, it worked well.
Thanks for helping out an ignorant kid who doesn't know what the hell hes doing. Hopefully i won't have anymore these dumb threads for at least a couple of weeks! Thanks, John
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2005, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyderdude
I think its ok now, I took the bolt cutter to the timing cover, it worked well.
Thanks for helping out an ignorant kid who doesn't know what the hell hes doing. Hopefully i won't have anymore these dumb threads for at least a couple of weeks! Thanks, John
You cut off the timing cover with bolt cutters??

Don't worry about dumb posts, learn from your mistakes.

Everyone is entitled to one srewup.

How about the balancer?
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Old 06-04-2005, 12:34 PM
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this may sound stupid but you can go online /to the library or the book store and in there among the stuff is step by step procedures (chilton /mitchelle)
the key to that is they team up with checks and balance so this thing doenst have to happen often no ones perfect and some day you will be on the other end helping some one else out
take you time you'll learn it

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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2005, 12:57 PM
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The balancer is still on, I might get an aftermarket crank, if not i'll let the machine shop get it off. The bolt cutter destroyed the cover, that thing is really fun!
My biggest problem is that I don't have acess to specialty tools, my dad and grandpa have a lot of basic stuff but no air tools or anything. And I don't know any gearheads, if I did I wouldn't be posting here.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2005, 01:04 PM
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So tell us all what exactly you are trying to do.

Car? purpose? Engine?
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2005, 02:47 PM
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Its a 92 ford 5.0, no car, just the motor. I found it in the paper and thought it would be a fun summer project. I want to put it in a notchback with a bad motor/no motor. If it ever gets done I want a fun weekend car. I want to build a solid bottom end for a bower in a couple of years. I'm gonna try and get some help with the main and rod bearings. Right now I'm planning on speed pro forged pistons, eagle sir rods and scat 9000 crank and probably iron gt40 heads off a 93-95 cobra, i'm not sure on the cam yet. I might end up selling the motor to my sister's boyfriend, when his blows up, he is gonna be running 12lbs of boost on a 150k mile motor. If I keep it, my goal is to have the motor completely bulit by xmas and a running car at the beginning of next summer
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Old 06-05-2005, 12:01 AM
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Try this just in case it works. It might save you a timing cover, which is not a cheap piece of tin like the one on a Chevy. I'm assuming the balancer is just wedged cockeyed just from some misdirected force. Find the point on the center section of the balancer that's farthest forward relative to the rest of it. Tap that point (on the center part) lightly toward the rear with a medium-sized hammer. This might knock it loose to a point where you can remove it normally. If it doesn't, I think I'd just let the machine shop deal with it.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2005, 03:56 AM
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might make you feel better

Last week I had a guy install a new BB. Couldn't get it to start. He put his plug wires on with the firing order 12345678. Put # 1 wire on the closest dist pin. I guess he figured the motor would figure it out on its own.

Then it wouldn't idle. He didn't plug any vacuum ports and put the carb on finger tight.

Then it started leaking water. He put the temp gage on finger tight but figured it wouldn't leak because he used a whole roll of teflon tape.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2005, 11:17 PM
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Spyderdude:

Since you never turned a wrench before, did it ever occur to you to start a stock rebuild, while using the appropriate factory, or after market manual?

Everyone has started small, stock rebuild, but most have manuals to help them. It seems you want to work on something for a HOTROD, damn the consequences due to your inexperience. You bash the S**T out of a dampner, listen to others who probably have never done the work, and then come to the HOTROD forum for advise!!

This is not Rocket Science.

I assume after going to StLouis schools and at the age of 15, you can read. GET SOME MANUALS.

"Its a 92 ford 5.0, no car, just the motor. I found it in the paper and thought it would be a fun summer project. I want to put it in a notchback with a bad motor/no motor. If it ever gets done I want a fun weekend car. I want to build a solid bottom end for a bower in a couple of years. I'm gonna try and get some help with the main and rod bearings. Right now I'm planning on speed pro forged pistons, eagle sir rods and scat 9000 crank and probably iron gt40 heads off a 93-95 cobra, i'm not sure on the cam yet. I might end up selling the motor to my sister's boyfriend, when his blows up, he is gonna be running 12lbs of boost on a 150k mile motor. If I keep it, my goal is to have the motor completely bulit by xmas and a running car at the beginning of next summer"

The way you are going, how in hell are you going to install the above parts correctly?? Do you know what precision measuring devices you will need, how much they cost, and how to use them??

Yes, this is harsh, but if you don't get your head out of your A** and take this stuff seriously, you will be just another teenager, +/- 3 years, bragging on the internet about their 400-450 HP street cars while riding in mom's stock grocery getter.

There are more 400 - 500 HP street legal cars on the internet than anywhere else! Number goes down in a hurry when you ask to see a copy of their dyno run.

I am also off my medication.

Will post chasis dyno #s on the 'vette after I get it together, for better or worse.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2005, 11:40 PM
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I have a book on rebuilding small block fords and and a general book on rebuiding motors. What I did should have worked providing that the damper would have come off normally or if I had air tools it would have been an issue. Yeah, **** happens, I should have known better.
I can't afford to rebuild a stock motor and then upgrade it later. I want to it once and do it right. I found a couple of experienced guys to help me when I start building the bottom end.
btw, do you have recommendations any stock rebuild forums? I don't think they exist. 99% of kids my age and older do talk pure ****. Do you think its better to try and build a car that does have 400-450 horsepower or be a ricer and act like I do? I understand your concern, but I'm not as dumb as you may think.
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