Hot Rod Forum banner

Serious problems removing harmonic balancer!

13K views 55 replies 13 participants last post by  kringold 
#1 ·
I have the puller rigged up right, when I was using a breaker bar and 4 ft long pipe the crank came up at an angle. I was told wrong that I could untorque the main bolts before pulling the harmonic balancer. I should have followed the book.

What should I do now? The harmonic balancer is on at an angle and the crank ends up about 1/2 inch the above the block. I haven't been able get it straight by hammering the balancer either. I have no idea what to do now. btw this my first time turning a wrench. Any help is much appreciated, John
 
#3 ·
Your description isnt very good Im totally confused. :drunk:

Are you trying to pull the damper off using a jaw type puller or what?

It kind of sounds like you have all the main caps off and torqued on the thing and dislodged the crank from the bearings.

Is the engine on a stand?
 
#4 ·
Greg Latvala said:
Your description isnt very good Im totally confused. :drunk:

Are you trying to pull the damper off using a jaw type puller or what?

It kind of sounds like you have all the main caps off and torqued on the thing and dislodged the crank from the bearings.

Is the engine on a stand?
Yeah I did exactly that, its on a stand. Its a standard harmonic balancer puller from autozone. I freaked myself out, everything had be going really well. The pistons and rods are out, probably a bad idea.
 
#5 ·
All the pistons and rods are out of the engine?
That makes things a lot easier.

The crank is just stuck now because you had caps off and torqued on it.

Its wedged on the thrust I suppose. See if you can turn it back the other way it should fall back into place.

When you get the caps back on there use a 2x4 block of wood between the counterweight and pan rail to keep it from rotating when youre removing the damper.

Use some kind of washer on end of crank snout so it doent get damaged and make sure threads on puller are oiled up good.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Greg Latvala said:
All the pistons and rods are out of the engine?
That makes things a lot easier.

The crank is just stuck now because you had caps off and torqued on it.

Its wedged on the thrust I suppose. See if you can turn it back the other way it should fall back into place.

When you get the caps back on there use a 2x4 block of wood between the counterweight and pan rail to keep it from rotating when youre removing the damper.

Use some kind of washer on end of crank snout so it doent get damaged and make sure threads on puller are oiled up good.
I had wood between the counterweight and block but eventually the crank was "stuck" and I thought that meant the balancer was almost coming off but I guess not, also it was very well oiled with liquid wrench.

I can still spin the crank a little bit, I need a way to get the harmonic balncer in straight. thanks, JOhn
 
#8 ·
Get the crank back into its proper position, torque the caps down and verify that the balance is actually cocked...may be just an optical illusion.

If it is cocked, then get it back on right like Bracketeer said.

Block the crank with wood and carefully remove it with the balancer puller. You could add a little heat with a propane torch, just a little though.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Bet you wont do it this way ever again.
Everybody messes up when I first started boss came and told me every time you f*** up we take a knuckle then he holds up his hand like he was missing a couple fingers.


Possibly when crank tilted up in back chain side got some slack and timing chain is out of line keepng front side pulled down.
If youre working on a small block Chevy take the puller off and measure how far the end of crank is from edge of damper.

If damper hasnt moved at all will be about 1 inch, if its about 2" watch out for your foot its ready to fall off.
 
#18 ·
sbchevfreak said:
Just for a dumb qusetion on my part, but the crank bolts' washer isn't still stuck to the balancer? This is about the only thing I can Think of that would make a balancer need a 4' snipe to remove.
Snipe? Aren't those little woodland creatures that you send people you don't really like out to catch?

Just kidding.

I was wondering if the bolt and washer had been removed myself.
 
#25 ·
Stuck crank

Doc here, :pimp:

Well, I'll get this out right upfront...NOT a ford guy at all..GM and Corvette only...

But I think I can tell you what is hanging the crank up...

The timing chain. either while moving the crank about or just normal tightness the chain is holding the crank from seating back into the main girdles..

You are committed now..you MUST get the crank pulley off and the timing chain cover and gear on the cam off to get it to seat again..between that and the thrust washers, it won't go back in.

I assume you have the Flex-plate / Flywheel off? If not....pull those too.

Never even bother to pull the pan until the accessories are all off the engine...

This includes the harmonic balancer, and timing chain Cover, timing chain and cam gear..first of all (unless your just doing rings, oil pump replacement, or don't care about turning the crank and trying to get more mileage out of a knocking rod, with a new insert) there is no reason to be in there before pulling the cam gear and timing chain.

Second, as you just found out...once you do there is nothing else you can do until you pull the cover and chain off. AND with the lower end disassembled it makes it just that much harder to "Untorque" things.

You now need to "Lock" the crank in place, (even now if it means chaining a non journal area, and bolting the chain to the block or other immovable force.)and remove that balancer..IF it won't come with a puller and taping it, than wash all the oil off it, and heat it while you tighten the puller down and tap it.

If it still won't budge....(because the crank keeps moving..and you can't bolt it down and lock it) your Very, Very last resort is going to be get a muffler gun or a pair of sharp tin snips, or drill and cut a slot, and cut the timing chain cover from around the crank and remove it...You'll have to buy a new one when you put the engine back together..(cost of learning :D )

Then Remove the Cam gear and timing chain...I bet the crank sits right back into the girdles then! After you Get the crank out, you can remove the balancer by locking the crank in a BIG *** Vise and working it from there..heat, tapping and tightening the puller.

If after you get the crank out, the balancer is so hopelessly stuck...just take it to the machine shop..they can remove it when they turn the crank.

Last bit of advise...Hindsight...unless it's someone you know and trust well...never take advice of a "self proclaimed pro"..ESPECIALLY when it's counter to what the manual Say's..

In the past, I 've had guys tell me "Yeah, I can fix that, I know all about Vettes.." (which are similar to, but different than Other GM's in many ways..I have worked on them for 35 years..) and they totally haven't a clue...I have to ask..just how many vettes have you worked on?? and the ones made by Revell don't count!..GO BY THE MANUAL!!

Hope that helps..
Doc :pimp:
 
#26 ·
I bet your exactly right Doc, I just didn't have the heart to tell him he will most likely have to cut the timing cover off.

You could try moderately heating the balance where it slides on the crank with a propane torch if you can get at it with the timing cover in the way. You may be able to expand it enough to get the balancer off. Just be sure to securely block the crank in before heating.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top