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Old 03-27-2007, 12:05 PM
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setting the gap on a points type dizzy... makes me dizzy...

Well, I would consider myself electrically handicaped... I've read some past posts on setting the gap on the points but I need pictures!!! . I have a gm dizzy, don't know the year. I bought a new set of pionts/condesor today and the auto parts guy said it's not pre gapped, what exaclty am I trying to gap. Is it the little copper thing that touches the little round thing??? sorry for the terminology but as I stated before I don't know anything about this and I want to learn, please help a brotha out...

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Old 03-27-2007, 12:50 PM
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points

Ok...look at the point see the 2 round tips one will move and one willnot,,if it a later GM dist with a small door that will slide up the point gap is set with an allen wrench if an older GM the point gap is set with a screw driver by turning a slotted screw head on the dist point plate,,,with points installed there is a lobed cam that the rotor set on turn this cam so the high lobe of the cam is aligned with the plastic rubbing block on the movable part of the point and use a thickness gauge and set the point gap at the spec for the engine((20 to 24 thousands)))also put a small dab of lube on the dist cam ((small) dab,,after you have this complete and engine running you will have to reset the timing....doc
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Old 03-27-2007, 04:02 PM
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Doc here,

Here is what your points should look like:


POINTS SET : TYPICAL GM
Install them where your old points came out..The copper band with the screw on the SIDE is where the wire and condenser Connect to..


TYPICAL CONDENSER

Looking down on the distributer shaft, you'll see an 8 sided eccentric, the pad on the movable arm of the points rides on this when the points are installed, set it to a "flat" or low spot, and adjust the points using the REAR SCREW on the points mounting screw (the slotted screws on the points) until the points are just CLOSED, (the two tips at the ends of the movable arm and stationary arm.

Next , rotate the engine until any "High spot" on that 8 point eccentric is up against the movable arm of the points..(points open) .

With a Feeler Gauge, set for 15 to 17 thousands, adjust with the screw on the rear of the point set (or in the case of the set in the illustration, the large slotted screw on the front and side of the set, with the spring on it) until the gauge "JUST TOUCHES" the point surface area without forcing them open. tighten them down.

Inspect your points,


POINTS INSPECTION:

The illustration on the right is what you want to see on closed points..be sure they open and close and the contacts are flat and not angled or pitted (after some use).

Put your rotor back on, Put the cap back on, start and warm the engine. Check and set your timing. (look up the spec for your engine) Then with a Dwell Meter, check the dwell..It should be between 28 and 32 Degrees, set the dwell @ 2000 RPM, if required, Then recheck the timing (Dwell will change it) reset if needed.

That should do it.

Doc
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Last edited by docvette; 03-27-2007 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 03-27-2007, 04:32 PM
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DOC U R THE MAN!!! thanks!
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Old 04-04-2007, 07:31 AM
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Point Setting...

Not Trying to confuse you --- The Way I Set Points is:

I Set the Timeing Marks -(Crank & Pointer On The Deg.Of Adv. You Want - When # 1 is @ T.D.C.) Than Take the old Points Out, Put new ones in. Loosen the Dis. - Turn on the Ign. - Turn the Dis. untill there is a little spark. -- Lock down the Dis. Put cap on.

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Old 04-04-2007, 03:46 PM
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Or find a tach/dwell meter. Most old timers will still have one in a dark corner of their shop. Sixteen degrees, if I recall is the number - correct me if wrong. GMs are (or were) the easiest to do with the little window in the side of the cap and an 1/8" Allen wrench. Make a .016" guesstimate of the gap, start the engine then refine it to specs with the Allen wrench and meter. Using feeler gauges on GMs with the weights above the points is tough with the dist. in the engine - it's almost a set by feel experience.
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Old 04-04-2007, 03:55 PM
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Doc here,

Tach and Dwell meter and Timing light are almost essential to get it accurate, as setting the Dwell and timing will effect the other..

As was mentioned, you can Ballpark it well enough, but for top accuracy, set the dwell at 2000 RPM, and recheck the timing.

Doc
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