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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2010, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDLuck
What timing cover and balancer do you have? They are different for different years abd miss matching them is a common problem.Did you mak sure tdc is correct?

I do have a timing tab on the timing chain cover, so when the timing mark on the balancer matches up to the "0" mark on the tab does that mean it's at TDC??

And for the timing cover and balancer, I'm not sure about those...

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Old 12-20-2010, 06:40 AM
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To set the timing on my engine for initial fire up, I bring the timing mark on the damper up to the pointer, turn the ignition on, then slowley turn the distributor back and forth slightly. Wen the points spark, that's close enough to fire it up and finish with the light...
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Old 12-20-2010, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StockR
I do have a timing tab on the timing chain cover, so when the timing mark on the balancer matches up to the "0" mark on the tab does that mean it's at TDC??
Maybe, maybe not.

The following is from another post I made on this:

Quote:
There are several different dampers. Both the diameter, thickness and the placement of the line on the outer ring of the damper can differ. So you need to know what you have, to know what tab to use.

The three most common locations for the timing mark on the damper:

The pre-'69 damper has the TDC line on the outer ring at the 2:30 o’clock position- or 2º before- (i.e. to the LEFT of the keyway, looking at the front of the engine) the keyway centerline. The keyway is seen in the ID of the damper.

The damper used from '69 to mid-80's has the TDC line at the 2 o’clock position- or 10º before the keyway. You'll find that aftermarket dampers are the 10º type, as are the bolt-on tabs sold in the aftermarket, unless they're adjustable.

A third timing mark was used from about 1978 to about 1991-'92. It is at the 12 o’clock position- or 40º before the keyway. This damper uses a timing cover that has the tab welded on at about the 12 o'clock position.
Above, Custom10 provided a link to make a timing tape. In addition, if you're unsure, or just want to check the accuracy of the tab/mark for TDC, DETERMINE TDC to see for sure.

I believe that replacing the points distributor w/an HEI unit will be the way to go, for sure. It gives a hotter spark and is generally a very reliable unit.

The total advance (vacuum advance disconnected and the hose plugged) should be around 36°, all in as soon as the engine will allow w/o pinging- shoot for about 2500-3000 RPM.

The initial timing can be around 12°-14°. This won't usually cause hard starting when the engine's hot.

I'd use the HEI's vacuum advance connected to manifold (full time) vacuum, limited (if necessary) to about 10°-12°, by physically limiting the vacuum advance can's travel w/a VACUUM ADVANCE LIMITER PLATE- Crane #99619-1, INSTRUCTIONS for 99619-1 . A limiter for either the points type or HEI distributor can be made as well.
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Old 12-25-2010, 08:02 PM
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Thanks everybody for your help! She runs pretty good at 36 degrees @3000 RPM.

One more simple question... what would be the ideal RPM rate at idle? in drive and in park?

Remember, it's a mild SB 350 with 3 speed Automatic. I have it set on 850 in park. is that good enough or can i go more? say.... 1000 RPM?
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Old 12-25-2010, 10:21 PM
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idle speed is going to depend entirely on your cam. if it's MILD like you say it is. .then I would say 850 in park is probably about right. 1000 is too high.

you want around 700-800rpm IN GEAR. and then the in park idle will go where ever it wants to.

here's a short video of my gauges idling.. and I shift from park into reverse to show the park/gear difference.. and I have a VERY mild smallblock right now (300hp if I'm lucky)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTPR0EOqaNc
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Old 12-25-2010, 11:38 PM
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points

andythedrummer did make a good point on the vacumn gauge though, you can set it with a light but is the right cover or balancer on it or as I have seen often the balancer slips on the rubber ring and is out by the mark. so if you want to set any old style without computor timing use the full vacumn port with the vacumn advance hose off the distrib and advance timing to highest vacumn it will go before it runs rough usually 18 to 20 depending on cam, then back off timing about 2.5 ponds on gauge and the timing is pretty much as close as you can get it with and cam out there. Works great I have checked it with the light after with dampeners I new were good(new) and it always works, it's a good alternate method especially without cam specs or year of motor, doesn't even mater what comp ratio. Good luck.
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