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Old 02-07-2003, 03:54 PM
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Post setting roller rockers

I have always used regular stock rocker arms on my 350 and i just got some new Blazer Roller Rockers, i have always set my valves with the truck idleing, and loosening the nutt up the tapping occurs then bring it down till it stops and a round about a 1/4 turn more, can i do this the same way with the roller rockers? How how is it done? Have good day

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Old 02-07-2003, 05:41 PM
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Before you start, make sure the transmission is in Park with the emergency brake set, or if the
car is equipped with a manual transmission, make
sure the trans is in Neutral with the parking
brake set. The best way to crank is to use a
momentary-switch to turn the engine over with the starter motor. If you don't have one of these tools, you can have a friend in the ****pit turn on the engine with the ignition switch.start at the front of the driver-side engine bank with No. 1 cylinder. Contrary to what you might think, the first valve at the front of the left bank on the small-block Chevy is actually the exhaust valve. If you're not sure about whether a valve is an intake or an exhaust, the easiest way to tell is to line up the valve with either an intake or an exhaust port. If the engine has headers, the exhaust is easy to identify. Since our small-block only has two valves per cylinder, if the rocker is not lined up with an exhaust port, then it must be an intake port and vice versa.
To set the first pair of rockers, bump the engine over and watch the exhaust rocker arm.
When it opens roughly a third of its total >>
exhaust opening--EO), stop and set the intake rocker arm. If you were to look at a cutaway of
any four-stroke engine, when the exhaust valve
just begins to open, the intake lobe would be on
its base circle. That is when you want to set the intake.To set the intake, back off the poly lock or adjustment nut until you know there is clearance. Then slowly tighten the nut until you
can feel a slight resistance while twirling the
pushrod between your fingers. This is zero
clearance between the lifter, pushrod, rocker,
and valve. If the engine is equipped with solid
lifters, use a feeler gauge to establish the proper clearance between the rocker arm and the
valve-stem tip. This is usually around 0.018 to 0.024 inch of clearance, but use the manufacturer's recommended lash. You want to establish a "feel" or slight tug on the feeler
gauge and use that same amount of resistance for all 16 valves.If you are setting preload on a hydraulic lifter-equipped engine, the process is a little different. Again, tighten the poly lock until all clearance is eliminated, and then tighten the adjuster another half-turn. This preloads the small piston in the bore of the lifter. Hydraulic oil pressure inside the lifter will maintain this preload throughout engine
operation. Some manufacturers may require more preload, but a half-turn is a safe setting that most companies use. This half-turn also reduces the amount of distance the lifter's internal piston travels if the lifter "pumps up" due to an engine over-speed condition.Now its set on the intake lobe, we're ready to set the exhaust. Bump the engine over again and watch the intake lobe this time. Continue to bump the engine past max intake valve lift and stop when the intake is about halfway down on the closing side (IC--intake closing).Now set the lash or preload on the exhaust valve for the same cylinder. Once you've done that, you're ready to move to the next cylinder. You don't have to do the engine sequentially. In fact, you could set lash by the firing order. However, we like to run down the cylinders from front to back to make sure we don't lose track of which rockers we've set. We end up bumping the engine over a few extra times this way, but it minimizes the chance of losing track of where you are and possibly missing a valve or two.To review, setting valves is actually pretty simple. You can set these valves starting with either the intake or exhaust. Start at the front of the driver side, bump the engine over until the exhaust valve just starts to open (EO), then set the intake valve. Once you've done that, bump the engine over again until the intake
valve is roughly halfway down the closing side, then set the exhaust valve. Once those two valves are done, move on to the next pair.The only thing to remember is to work on one pair of valves for a dedicated cylinder before moving on. Once we've set all the valves on one side, we like to go back over all the adjusting nuts to ensure they are all tight. That way, we know we didn't miss one.Once you've set both sides, replace the valve
covers and reconnect the ignition system. Then
fire up the engine and listen for any clattering
or noise that may indicate that you've missed one or more valves. If the engine runs smoothly and exhibits no excessive noise, you're done.

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Old 02-07-2003, 06:48 PM
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You should rest after that one!
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