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Old 04-06-2008, 06:27 PM
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Severe Orange Peel ?

I painted my 63 Ford Galaxie with a BC/CC the BC came out perfect. When I applied the clear I got severe orange peel and some dry spray. I used an older gun with a 1.3 tip for the clear. I had a hard time controlling the pressure on the gun. If I color sand starting with 1200 and work my way through the grades than polish will I be able to resolve my problem? I've painted a few cars but never used BC/CC before.

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Old 04-06-2008, 06:51 PM
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It will usually buff out.....just depends on how bad it is and how much time you want to spend wet sanding. You may want to consider starting with a little heavier grit wet/dry paper if the orange peel is as bad as you say. If you start with 1200 you'll be there forever. PROVIDING you have enough clear on there, you may want to start with something like 600 or 800 grit and work your way up to 1200 to 2000. Just be careful you don't blow through the clear. Any pictures so we can see just how much orange peel is there?
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Old 04-06-2008, 07:55 PM
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I don't have any pictures it looks a little better today. Seems to have leveled out some but is still needs lots of sanding. I will start sanding tomorrow. I am afraid to cut through the clear by starting with your recomendation.
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Old 04-06-2008, 11:16 PM
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Start with 1000 grit and use lots of water!! It will cut pretty fast. Tape off the edges and be careful.

The other option is to block the clear with 600 and reclear. Do some test panels and play with the gun settings and maybe reduce the clear a little. Figure out how to get the clear on smooth. Sometimes reclearing is faster then colorsanding for days.

Good luck!!
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Old 04-07-2008, 06:43 AM
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I would sand and reclear as well, you need to maintian a constant distance from the panels. It sounds like you are too far away from the panel. Why did you have a hard time controling the pressure?
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:02 AM
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I had an air leak on and off with the seal in the cup
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:53 AM
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yeah i would resand wit some 800 and plenty of water wit a bit of car wash detergent in it, it will stop the paper clogging up so fast, take ya time as it would be a shame to rush it at its final step and ruin the job, its also prob worth buying a good gun or borrowing 1 from a mate for the final clear coat,

also wat paint are you using?? if your using acrylic, when you reclear, instead of mixing it 1:1.5 for all the coats, mix the 1st caot like that, then for the 2nd coat 1:2, then 1:2.5 for the rest of the coats, just leave it longer to flash off between coats and put more coats on to compensate for the extra thinners, wat this does is help the paint 'lay' flatter, less peel to color sand off and less polishing work to do, just a tip that i picked up from a good friend, works a treat!!

krem
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Old 04-08-2008, 06:12 AM
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I leaky cup, thats not a good thing, fix that before you try and reshoot.
You can over reduce the clear if you are going to shoot it again, but then the stuff you reshhot is going to look alot better than the stuff you only shot once, unless you sand and polish it all.(not fun)
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Old 04-08-2008, 04:49 PM
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You can maybe try a panel first to see where you are getting. Worst case senerio, you cut through, and your in the same boat, repainting it. If orange peel is pretty bad, I'd start in the 800 to 1000 wet range, carefull not to hit edges and bodylines much. I saved some pretty bad paint jobs of mine in the past through sand and buff, provided had enough material on to work with.
If you do cut through the clear and have to repaint, you will need to spray more base on areas you cut through to base and blend it in. The solvents when you spray your new base may want to lift the edge. You may want to hit cutthrough areas with a shot or two of epoxy, leave sit overnight before repainting. You can lightly sand down the epoxy areas if you want. I usually just hit them with 1000 wet to smooth and knock off the overspray, without removing too much. If you spray your base the next day, the epoxy should still be in its window for chemical adhesion, so sanding with a fine grit would be fine.
If I mess up and need to spot base and reclear a panel, I normally sand with around 800 wet. 600 should be fine for the reclear as well, but then you will be taking off material faster and possibly cut through. Clear should lay easier over the sanded clear then it did over base. Get that gun tuned up and spraying correctly first.
Base is less viscosity then clear normally, and usually easier then clear to lay flat. If it will help your gun atomize better, its okay to reduce your clear or even over reduce it a tad, within reason if you need to using a GOOD grade of urethane reducer. Allow good flash times. Not sure what you used for a gun, but many hvlp's still need decent pressure going into the gun. Some get confused cause product sheets often say 10 p.s.i. which is at the cap of an hvlp.
1.3 is on the small end of most clears recommendation for gravity feed, and may need to move slower, or possibly little reduction would help.

Last edited by kenseth17; 04-08-2008 at 04:55 PM.
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