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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2003, 05:15 PM
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Hea Pony,

Thanks for the P.M. I see Weimer is posting up here trying to help ya too. There are some super guys and gals here.
1) O.K. Take a can of WD-40 and spray all of the connections you can find. All the rubber hoses you can find. Also spray the areas where the intake mates to the head.
2) If you have 4 plugs that are not firing, you have a different problem. You gotta track down what is causing it to miss, You can swap out plug wire and see if they are bad,(the plug wires) you can pop the dist cap and see if it is cracked. ( or the rotor is)You can pull your plugs and read them.
That will help you sort it out. Then get back to us with what you find.
Slider in Wa.

Look up spark plug reading in the Knowledge base.
Slider in Wa.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2003, 06:08 PM
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Whats going on

I took wd-40 and went crazy no places that i sprayed made the engine idle higher or anything... the engine just seemed to do the same.

I took the plug wires off at the distributor cap and 4/8 plugs did not make the engine shake when i took the wire off.

what does this mean? i bought one spark plug and replaced one of the plugs that wasn't firing... it still doesn't fire?

what does this show me? - note that the distributor was replaced along with the coil about a month ago trying to fix the horrible shaking.

i have heard things about a pcv valve making an engine shake? my pcv oil is leaking oil onto the chrome valve cover? does it need replacing and would that be whats making the plugs miss??

why would the cylinder still not fire even when i put a new spark plug?

also what is this about the transmission plate not being tightened?? i had the transmission adjusted and a modulator was replaced on it... afterwards i ran into this problem
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2003, 06:26 PM
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Ok, everyone missed the biggest clue in this whole thing. He said the very front and very rear plugs on one side and the 2 center plugs on the other made no difference at idle when the wires were pulled.

Each side of the carb feeds 2 cyls on one side, and 2 on the other, exactally the ones he's stating don't work.

Here is a good fix to try. Notice there are 2 slotted screws in the front of the carb. Those are the idle mixture screws. Start with either one, screw it IN ( clockwise ) while counting the turns. Write down how many until it stops turning, probably about 2 to 3 turns. Then remove the screw completely and get a can of carb cleaner spray with the little plastic hose on it. Put the hose into the hole and spray the crap out of it. Put the screw back in, turn it all the way in ( clickwise ) then back it out ( counter clockwise) until you reach the number of turns that you wrote down.

Do the same to the other screw. Seat it, count it, remove it, spray it, put it back in and back out same number of turns. Fire it up and see if its better. Sometimes a little piece of crap gets in one of the idle circuits and shuts off one side of the carb, which will shut off 2 cyls on each side.

Mark
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2003, 06:52 PM
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i know im about 30 posts late but ill try any ways 1st if you use a test light connected to ground and probe the test light into the wire end at the distributer it will ground that plug wire and it wont even zap you. 2nd the easiest way to check for a vaccum leak is to put your hand over the airhorn of the carb if the idle raises you have a vac leak. try to isolate the moment when it started running like a bag, was it after a backfire or when it over heated one day. what year is it does it have points, is it a dual point distributer. if it is a dual plane intake find out which plane is feeding the cyls that are dead. that side of the carb is suspect. and last do a compression check on the afected cyls and eliminate them.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2003, 07:19 PM
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Pony

I like the replys you are getting!!! The carb gig, sounds like a good , cheap thing to check out. And he is right on with the carb to runner stuff.
As well i allways go back to what was done last. New distributor, because it was not running and was shaking? It didn`t cure the problem.
Just to rule out plug wires, stick a screw driver in the end of the plug wire, hold it about a 1/4 inch from a ground(be safe) have your buddy turn the engine over and see if you are getting spark through all of your plug wires. This will rule them out. You want a nice blue/orange spark. Strong!! If you have nice spark, move on to the next item.
New vaccumn modulator? Why was that done? Was the rig shifting bad? If so was the engine shaking before the modulator was replaced? Is it the correct modulator? Get back to us!!!
Your doing fine!!!
Slider in Wa.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2003, 09:20 PM
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The modulator

I took the car in to the shop for a major tuneup.

I got this thing looked at that happens on all 66's where if you put it in park you have to wiggle it for a clip to fall in and it actually be in park.

gmc's had a spring that would push it in

well i took it in for transmission adjustments about that because i thought that would fix it from rolling when in park

they decided to put a new modulator on the transmission
and when we got it back it works a little harder
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2003, 10:35 PM
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Doesn't seem like your being real clear on wether the plugs are firing or not.. Or wether u know they are firing or not... So try this... Pull EVERY plug.. Reattach the plug wires to each one.. Then set them all on the block of the engine.. or somewhere where they will be grounded... As long as the threads or any of the bottom brass is touching a good ground then it will be grounded... But anyways.. With all of the plugs grounded have a friend set in the car and tap the ignition.. Having it fire one cylinder at a time... This way you have the plugs setting right in front of you and you can see for sure if one or some are not firing. If one doesn't fire then double check and make sure its grounded well. This is also a good way to check your firing order.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2003, 07:12 AM
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Jmark is right, I ASSumed pony had a little exp. sorry! Sounds right if the modulators leaking vac.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2003, 07:39 AM
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Pony

Was the shaking going on before you had the dist replaced and the modulator replaced? Yes or no?
Slidewr in Wa.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2003, 10:33 AM
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Make sure none of your pushrods are broken. I had the same problem with my car where 2 of my pushrods were broken in half. The wierd thing is that there was no valvetrain noise.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2003, 11:09 AM
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hey pony

i really suggest you go here
www.howstuffworks.com
it will tell/show you how your engine all works together.
Aaron
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2003, 12:53 PM
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Sequence of Events

Car was basically fine.. took it in for transmission adjustments.

They replaced a transmission gasket as well as modulator.

I got the car back and drove a little ways when it began to shake.

I took the car back to the shop and had a carb check/clean and i also had a distributor replaced

got the car back... they idled it up high (real high) which got rid of the shaking.. but not the problem...

since then we idled it down and it was running fine for several months with only one or 2 occurences of this shaking

finally this month.. it went belly up on me and decided to start shaking me to death
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2003, 02:24 PM
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Cleaned the carb

I cleaned the carb like said above... nothing new

same old shake...

this shake seems to be bad sometimes
and at other times goes away completely
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2003, 03:36 PM
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My last post. Remove the dist cap, make sure the condenser is tight, make sure the ground strap is there and tight, re-check the point dwell, if it still shakes,

TAKE IT TO A SHOP AND HAVE IT PUT ON A SCOPE AND PAY A FEW BUCKS TO FIX IT RIGHT.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2003, 03:46 PM
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NOOO MONEY

i have no money to take it to a shop with false hopes that it might cost 20 dollars to fix... !!! i need to try to fix it myself?

everyone seems to be interested in this modulator that was replaced on my transmission?
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