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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2003, 01:01 PM
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Unhappy Shaking Engine PLEASE POST

I have a 66 mustang with a 289 v8 engine. It has been running fine for the past several months. It began to shake horribly one day when i put it in drive. whats wrong?

the car will crank and run fine in park - - then when you put it in drive the car begins to shake horribly at a standstill... once you give it just the smallest amount of gas the engine is fine - - it stops the horrible shaking

when you put the car in neutral the shaking stops and also put it in park... whats wrong

i took it to a shop and they replaced the distributor on it... this didn't fix the problem.. i was told on an earlier post to replace the pcv valve...

there is a small amount of oil coming from the pcv valve... but why is it shaking horribly only when put in gear...? its fine when you get moving at all.. but at a standstill is horrible

one spark plug wire looks like it has been hacked (just the orange cover on the end) could the spark be jumping to the engine block??? i believe the plugs also have some age on them... could one be fouled? or misfiring because its bad? spark plugs dont just go bad do they? do they need replacing? please post... your help is greatly needed

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Last edited by ponybuster; 09-22-2003 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 09-22-2003, 01:31 PM
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First things first. Fire up the motor for a few minutes, then get a can of water and drizzle a little on each exhaust pipe and make sure you got all eight cylinders firing. This probably isn't your problem because you would've also noticed some lost power, but when diagnosing engine problems you start with step one, and this is usually my step one.
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Old 09-22-2003, 01:32 PM
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how are the motor mounts?
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Old 09-22-2003, 01:40 PM
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haven't checked the motor mounts

i have seen them recently and they looked fine.. but now is the time to check
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Old 09-22-2003, 01:46 PM
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There are numerous things that will cause the problem you are describing. Idle speed is too low, mixture is too lean, 1/2 of the carb idle circuit is dirty/blocked, bad plug, bad wire, low spark voltage, low compression, vac leak/leaks.

Best bet is to find someone with an older style scope and have them take a look. It'll cost maybe 30 bucks, but will end up saving many hours/days of farting around changing parts that may end up being fine.
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Old 09-22-2003, 02:31 PM
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i would rather fix it myself.. because i'm a wee stressed on cash

its not a universal joint...something with the engine... oih

whats wrong.. keep posting ideas
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Old 09-22-2003, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jmark
There are numerous things that will cause the problem you are describing. Idle speed is too low, mixture is too lean, 1/2 of the carb idle circuit is dirty/blocked, bad plug, bad wire, low spark voltage, low compression, vac leak/leaks.

Best bet is to find someone with an older style scope and have them take a look. It'll cost maybe 30 bucks, but will end up saving many hours/days of farting around changing parts that may end up being fine.
Well, if your short on cash, throwing parts at it hoping to eventually fix it will usually end up costing alot more than $30 for a good diagnosis.

If you see a hacked wire, start there.

Here is another good way to pinpoint if its one cyl. Have someone sit in the car, hold the brake on, plus the emerg brake on, plus something in front of the tires, then have them put it in gear and let it idle, shake and whatever it does. Then you pull one plug wire at a time on the dist. If everything is good in that cyl, it will run WORSE and maybe die, plug it back in and go to the next one. If you pull one and nothing changes, thats the cyl thats got the problem. Pull the plug and take a look at it, ck the wire too. If they are ok, do a comp test on that cyl.
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Old 09-22-2003, 05:31 PM
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Red face

agghh.. this is not good... the hacked wire tends to shock when doing the pull a wire test... it shocks real bad

is it arching to the engine block and causing a horrible shocking?
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Old 09-22-2003, 05:35 PM
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Hint of advice for Jmarks advice.... Use something really thick and non conductive to pull the plug wires with while the engine is running! I've gotten bit soo many times just from accidently touching the little rubber boot on the wire.. Let alone grabbing ahold of it! But then again that coulda been cuz I was leaning over the car.. In effect havin a hand or stomach grounded .. But anyways careful about pullin wires with the car on... It can and will grab ya if your not careful! And 45,000 volts never feels too good.
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Old 09-22-2003, 05:36 PM
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Ok, with the engine off, replace the "hacked" wire and then try the test again. You can pull them from the cap easier, just hold the wire about 2 or 3 inches from the cap when pulling. The arc smarts a little but won't kill ya. LOL
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Old 09-22-2003, 05:39 PM
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lol looks like i didn't post soon enough... Did you have your hand or part of your body grounded to any of the metal on the car? For instance like i said earlier... Leaning over and using your other had to stablize yourself...
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Old 09-22-2003, 05:46 PM
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Short funny story.
In my wrenching days, I got nailed too many times as the spark ended up going through my "you know what" on its way to ground as I leaned over the fender, NOW THAT HURTS!!!! LOL
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Old 09-22-2003, 05:53 PM
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Oh dear god.. Don't remind me of that feeling!! Your not the only one. LMAO
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Old 09-22-2003, 05:53 PM
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loose bolts?

this will sound crazy and i would have never beleived it unless i saw it myself-- one shop i worked at a couple of years ago had aford f 150 with 302 and auto trans come in for exact same scenario at idle it shook horribly and sounded like it was coming to pieces give it a little throttle or go down the road and it was fine --long story short i put the truck on the rack in my bay and after looking at it from underneath noticed all the trans bell housing bolts were backed out three -eights inch tightened them up with my impact gun and all was good--problem solved. hope this helps
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Old 09-22-2003, 07:10 PM
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loose bolts

got your pm ponybuster your transmission/bellhousing bolts are located just below the seam where the engine block ends and the front of the transmission starts the bolts should take a nine sixteenth wrench or socket to tighten -this seam i am referring to should be completely tight the case i had at the shop the trans was back about one quarter inch so it was obvious the area you look for this is right at the engine bay firewall- also may want to crawl under the car and try and move or shake the trans from the tailshaft end-- --good luck
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