i wish they would come up with a steel spring clip that latches around the pickup tube and pump body.. so there is no way ever a pick up tube could fall out.
Someone out there makes a clamp that bolts to two of the pump body bolts and has a steel band that clamps around the pick-up tube....I just can't remember who it is.....
Nice idea to solve the pulsing that really isn't an issue for a street engine, only issue I can see is with a helical gear you now have a thrust component to contend with in opposite directions for each gear.
Seems more like a gimmick than an improved design to me, just trading one issue for another. Personally I would rather have a pulsed flow than thrust acting without a thrust bearing to take the load...not even a hard surfacing treatment or powder press porous lid/insert to address the issue.
I would stick to what has worked for 100 years or more with nearly zero wear issues over the life of an engine and use a straight gear.
The helix is small however, maybe its not an issue...just wish they would have addressed that concern in their advertisement.
I got one on the way for my new 350 build with a dart shp block. I will have to post how it looks when I get it and it might be a month or so when I get it built but will post how it does.
Haven't run one yet but that's pending. Don't see spark scatter or distributor gear wear as an issue except on race motors especially those running bronze gears. Those and composites wear rather fast so taking some load off of them should help.
As for clips and bolt on pick up tubes these are a good idea on any engine and a must on a performance or competition build as the high vibration beats the pick up pretty hard and it will back out.
If you're going to safety wire the bolts...please research how to do so. I can't even count the number of transmissions we've seen where the wires aren't keeping the bolt from backing out at all. I guess when the bolt comes out or the nut comes off, it'll be hanging there for you LOL
now.. i take it the spin was a dry test.. or did you put some moly graphite assembly lube in it to assist in it building a vacuum to pull the oil up when you prime the engine..
do you have an old chevy rear main cap off an old blown up motor.. so you could tap the mount it on a piece of bar stock.. and drill /tap the new passage so you could mount a Tee with a pressure gauge and a needle valve so you could have your own pump testing dyno station.. being able to spin the pump up to check flow. and the bypass pressure opening of the internal valve.
just thoughts..
i have a trick to prime engine oil systems. after installation.. with the distributor in.. the before i put the spark plugs in.. i remove the oil filter.. put oil in the engine.. i use a remote starter to spin the engine and when the oil squirts out of the oil filter mounting.. i screw the filter back on.. crank it for another 5 seconds.. this primes the motor really well..
on crank snout driven oil pumps.. this will work also.. there is another way i do those.. i figure out which way the oil is going to flow into the oil filter.. i either use a hand vacuum pump to apply vacuum to the filter adapter opening.. i have used a chunk of heater hose and sucked on it.. i have used a shop vacuum.. this pulls oil up thru the pickup tube and gets it thru the oil pump gears to assist in priming the pump..
i really hate dry starts..
i also use staylube moly graphite assembly lube on the main bearings.. the rod bearings.. the cam bearings.. the cam lobes.. and fill the pump with it.. it really does not leak out.. so its there a few days or a few months later when i am cranking the motor to start it. i also use it on my valve guides... lasts a lot longer than motor oil up in the guides..
now.. i take it the spin was a dry test.. or did you put some moly graphite assembly lube in it to assist in it building a vacuum to pull the oil up when you prime the engine..QUOTE]
Wayne all I did was turn the pump by hand, it turned real smooth. I then put it in my pump tester and ran it up with a drill. The installed spring opened at 70 psi which should be sufficient for my application. Like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3qsQU6grvc
Im very happy with the results. I left the spring in that it came with, I have 22 psi at idle, and 70 at WOT. I had to dimple pan a small bit as the pump is 1/4 inch deeper than a M55
I took it apart and washed the whole thing, I then ran it in my pump tester to make sure the relief valve was where I wanted it. Very smooth operation.
I did not open up my pump but I sure will now just to check things
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