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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2002, 08:43 PM
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Carguy - I checked out your photos. That's pretty cool. Do you remember what year handles you used?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2002, 03:25 PM
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no, i dont, a buddy of mine was going to throw them away so i took them. just go to the yard and look around you should be able to find something,sorry i couldnt help.
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Old 10-12-2002, 08:37 PM
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Shaving door-handles or modern replacement.

First prep the surface before working. Remove existing handles and lock mechanisms. Remove all paint and sealers down to bare sheet metal at least 5” from working area. Now that you have prep the area you are ready to start. Draw a rectangular template around the area you wish to remove. Encompass a minimum of one inch (1&#8221 around the handle mounting. Now that you have traced a stencil to follow with your cutting tool (cutting wheel, saw, or plasma cutter) cut and remove the handle area. Be careful when doing this not to overheat the metal to prevent warpage. Now that the handle area is removed measure the hole with a caliper or micrometer to 0.001”. By measuring to 0.001” you will have a better and tighter fitting patch panel to weld in. You could also place a white piece of paper on the outside of the hole and with a spray can of paint spray the paper through the inside of the door to get an accurate stencil for the patch panel. Now in shaving a door handle you will need to cut a piece of sheet metal to the measurements or to the stencil. After cutting the replacement panel you will need to form it to the doors curvature and/or bodyline. After the panel is formed to your satisfaction you will begin welding it in place. Spot-weld the panel in on all for sides to hold it in place. weld 3-5(every 1/2" ) spots on each side shifting randomly from side to side so the sheet metal does not overheat and warp. Grind the welds smooth being careful not to overheat the metal, after grinding let cool and smooth with a light coating of filler prime/seal then paint.

Modern replacement.

First prep the surface before working. Remove existing handles and lock mechanisms. Remove all paint and sealers down to bare sheet metal at least 5” from working area on both doors, donor and replacement. Now that you have prep the area you are ready to start. Draw a rectangular template around the area you wish to remove. Make sure the area you remove on the door awaiting replacement is large enough to house the modern handle. Make sure through measurement. Encompass a minimum of one inch (1/2" ) around the handle mounting. Now that you have traced a stencil to follow with your cutting tool (cutting wheel, saw, or plasma cutter) cut and remove the handle area. Be careful when doing this not to overheat the metal to prevent warpage. Now that the handle area is removed measure the hole with a caliper or micrometer to 0.001". By measuring to 0.001" you will have a better and tighter fitting patch panel to weld in. After cutting the replacement panel you will need to form it to the doors curvature and/or bodyline. After the panel is formed to your satisfaction you will begin welding it in place. Spot-weld the panel in on all for sides to hold it in place. weld 3-5( every 1/2" ) spots on each side shifting randomly from side to side so the sheet metal does not overheat and warp. Grind the welds smooth being careful not to overheat the metal, after grinding let cool and smooth with a light coating of filler prime/seal then paint.

Do to the fact that shaved door handle kits as well as modern handle replacements vary so greatly the step by step was left rather vague. If you need any more step by step information on either adaptation of the new modern handle and mechanism or if you require a more in depth explanation to any of the steps above including techniques please contact me.

HK

[ October 12, 2002: Message edited by: Halloweenking ]</p>
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2002, 09:06 PM
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Thanks for all of the info HK. We appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
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Old 10-13-2002, 10:27 AM
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ok, you piqued my intrest. how would i rig my side mirror to do it?

thinking it over, itdoesn't seem THAT hard, as long as I could figure out how to get a hidden hinge to hold the mirror assembly onto the car. then it would just be a nmatter of routing the cable so that it pulls the latch. is that right?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2002, 11:49 AM
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Question for HK. In butt welding shouldn't there be a small gap in between to allow for penetration (using welding clamps) and this will also allow for the area to be ground down flush without grinding all the weld if there is not sufficent penetration in all areas. If not, why not jus weld the plate behind and add filler like All-Metal. Just looking for different opinions on this as I have seen it done different ways.

Kevin
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Old 10-13-2002, 12:01 PM
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My brother uses a (Nibbler?), it makes a recess around the hole about a 1/4" all around. It makes it look like a fuel door when opened. The new piece fits in place and you get a near perfect surface that needs very little finishing.
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Old 10-13-2002, 01:59 PM
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Miststlkr, your theory is correct. I work in a machine shop so if I do a custom mod like the mirror or side trim machining one from aluminum isn't hard at all. If you ever want to do this your local machine shop can make you a hinge as well as a new billet mounting base, all you have to do is polish it and hook it up.

Kevin45 the way I weld in patch panels may be different then most do to where and by whom I was taught. you are correct that in butt welding their should be a place for the welding to seap into to hold. When I make a patch panel I cut it down as close as possible and bevel the welding edge on both the car and the panel creating a 'V' or a small channel for the weld to grip. This not only helps during the welding process, but its a tighter fitting panel, and also can be ground smooth without desterbing the actual welds. A light coating of filler and your done. As to your question welding from the rear can be done, but its much harder do to some doors being hard to reach through as well as being unsightly even though you and I both know no one will see it.

Bstmech, your brothers using a flanging tool to create a step for the panel to sit on. While it works, its not needed in situations like this if you have the right clamps. They now have tiny suction clamps for holding large patch panels in place soo a step is not needed in most cases. It is also a step that really isn't needed do to the fact that you can get the same or better results in butt welding. Also in many cases do to the curvature or in the case of a bodyline this method can do more harm than good.

HK
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2002, 02:31 PM
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HK: Makes sense to me about not using a flanger on curved surfaces. I'd say my brother wouldn't either, I watched him use a flanger to add a second fuel door/tank to a Ford truckbed once(flat surface). He stayed out of the corners with it and just cut them away.
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Old 10-13-2002, 11:57 PM
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Can I but in? I am brand spanking new to this site but I was reading what you were saying about changing the way you enter your vehicle. One thing to keep in mind is that there are no rules when it comes to modifying your car/truck. You don't have to put the door latch in the door. Try putting it on the door jamb instead and setting the catch on the door. This will allow you to run wires to your opener (actuator, solenoid, whatever) without running them through an area that is prone to damaging them. With the latch located in the door jamb, you can also include a mechanical emergency release by dropping it straight down to underneath the vehicle. This gives you the ability to open your door when your battery dies, and it will probably be at night, far from home, raining, and cold.

Another way to protect yourself is to add a power window to the driver's side (if not equipped) and hook it to a module which will roll the window down when you push a button on your remote. The will come in handy when the battery is fine, but the door opener is shot.

One final tip. If you use a standard remote system, off a wrecked car or from an electronics store, there is a great chance that someone else in your neighborhood has a remote system that works on the same frequency. My stepmom had this problem with a car she bought. Every now and then, she would go out to her car and find the trunk popped or her doors unlocked. Expensive remotes have some protection against this. But who can afford those right? To avoid it happening to you (coming out of Walmart and finding your door wide open, slammed against the car next to you), have a switch the stops power to the door popper. The switch can either be keyed or you can use a channel of your remote to turn power on/off to you door poppers.

Just my two-cents worth. This is where I am on my project.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2002, 12:17 AM
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PRAY9123 I left out instruction on how to do the actual lach instalation do to the fact that anything is possible and no one will do or use the same thing as you said. Most customizers are fazing out shaved doorhandles and using hidden handles or modern style handles. You have some good ideas as well as warnings. If you need any help let me know.

HK
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2002, 07:16 PM
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The battery issue is an easy fix. Run an external positive post to the under side of truck. These posts come with a rubber grommet cover. I'm not sold on the emergency cables or switches. Anyone knows or sees this used it's free reign on your vehicle. I like to keep a "slim jim" strapped to the truck underside.

I've been using the Autoloc #50 solenoids for some time now. I also have my solenoids wired into my remote start/keyless entry/alarm. Press unlock button once(pops drivers door) press a second time(pops passenger door). No problems yet ! I live in WI and use my truck as a daily driver winter and summer.

Good Luck !
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2003, 12:23 PM
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obviously an old thread from "the closet" I am replying in here, But I feel it is best to ADD to existing threads that have info already in them rather than rehash the ol' sameol' sameol'.

I have a 1966 "BIG" Thunderbird. The lines on the side that run the lenght are so sleek, but the HUGE chrome door handles, (are also nice but) detract from the body lines.
I want to keep the existing keyed DOOR LOCK cylinder but remove the door handle and release button which are manual and put in a "pull chain and a ringlet" that will come up out of the top of the door next to the door window crack through a grometed hole. All that will be exposed will be a Ringlet that your finger can slip in to pull UP on to get the UN-LOCKED door to "pop" open.

Advice needed. THanks.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2003, 01:36 PM
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Can you use the same door locks as whats original to the car or do you have to use the locks that came with the door handle of the donor car or do you have to buy new bear claws?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2003, 02:21 PM
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I believe I can use the locks that exist as they are not incorporated into the handle or the release button itself. The only problem, is that to LOCK the open door if exiting is to push down the inside door " Mushroom" stalk and hold the release catch on the door outer handle button to keep the door LOCKED. (I think it was some kind of safety feature)I can also close the door and manualy use the key to LOCK it in the cylinder.

I think I will have to pull the inner door pannel of to look, if not, WORSE CASE SCENARIO = replace with new cylinders and locking mech... what would you reccomend?
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