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Old 08-21-2011, 11:07 AM
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shaved door handle solenoid problem

I finally got around to trying to replace the very weak solenoid for the shaved doors on my 85 Monte Carlo. I bought a 75 lb. pull unit on ebay and got it all set up using the wiring that the "professional customizer" ran to the weak old solenoid. The only problem is that the new solenoid blows out the 20 amp courtesy circuit fuse. I've read about relays and wonder if a relay between the fuse block and the solenoid would solve this problem or if I need to go to a lower power solenoid.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

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Old 08-21-2011, 01:39 PM
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Is it the wiring or could it be the solenoid? I'd try putting a 30 amp fuse in and see if it blows, Make sure to put the 20 amp back in when done. If the 30 amp doesn't blow then a relay will fix your problem.

I like neg pulse relay, attached ia a diagram (disreguard the lower right wording, it was for another project)
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File Type: pdf door bumpers.pdf (89.0 KB, 128 views)
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Old 08-22-2011, 07:04 PM
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Check the solenoid first by just putting it right across the battery itself or use a car starter (the ones from the store that you plug into the wall for a quick charge) and just see that the solenoid pulls in and is functional.

Assuming it isnt fauly, the relay will "help" but its not going to protect your wiring harness from that pull. If you use the circuit EOD gave you but run a new line from the battery(+), with a fuse of your choice, and then to the solenoid then youd really be making use of the relay. If you just connect the relay to the existing fuse in the fuse box then theres no point in using a relay. I hope that makes sense. You want the relay to act as your switch to supply a strong source of power for the solenoid which would come direct from the battery. Going through your existing fusebox, then supplying the relay, using the old wiring harness, does nothing for you.
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:03 AM
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If you use the existing fusebox, and tap into the Hot side of a 30 amp fuse terminal you should be just fine. If you tap into the fused side (Hot side = always hot, fused side=if the fuse blows no pwr) what he said above is true, but you will probably be OK…… Because you are only using that fuse for the time you open the doors. If the solenoids fire on a 30 amp circuit, it doesn't matter where that 30 amps comes from…… Now if you have everything turned on that runs from that fuse etc……

Your issue as I see it is: Will the courtesy circuit handle the new solenoid or is the solenoid bad…… If the solenoid is good but needs more juice….. Tap into a 30 amp circuit or as suggested, come from the batt and wire in a relay, and use the existing courtesy circuit to fire the relay
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Old 08-25-2011, 12:43 PM
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shaved door handle solenoids

Thanks for the replies. The solenoid works fine with a 30 amp fuse. unfortunately there are no 30 amp fuses in the fuse block on this car. I did get radio shack relays and I looked at the diagram EOD was kind enough to send along. There is one pole I can't figure out how to hook up. That is shown as "on/off switch" on radio shack's diagram or the one shown as Neg Pulse on EOD's diagram. I have only the fused line in and one out to the solenoid. One pole goes to ground. Do I ground the fourth pole?

Once again any help would be appreciated.

Doug
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Old 08-25-2011, 05:23 PM
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I need to know, are you using a hidden switch or a remote to fire the opening solenoids?

If you are using a remote, when you press the button is it a neg pulse or a pos pulse that fire the solenoids?

12v on one side of the soleniod and it's waiting to go to ground to complete the circuit = neg pulse coming from the remote brain box

Grounded on one side of the soleniod and is awaiting a 12v source to complete the circuit = Pos pulse coming from the remote brain box
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Old 08-25-2011, 05:43 PM
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I revised the diagram, should be easier to understand
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File Type: pdf door bumpers.pdf (98.6 KB, 92 views)
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Old 08-26-2011, 02:32 PM
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Thanks again EOD Guy.
As background I am just trying to replace the solenoids that a professional custom shop installed a nuber of years ago. They were too weak for the job and really drained the battery when they tried.
The remote fires the solenoid. there is no hidden switch. I think I should add one.
I don't know how to tell if the remote is positive or negative pulse and I have no literature on it. However from your description, I assume it is negative pulse since the body of the solenoid serves as ground and there is only a single 12 volt line running to it.
Doug
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:29 PM
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Revised the diagram to reflect a neg pluse from the remote.

And if you wanted to add a hidden switch
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File Type: pdf door bumpers neg.pdf (98.4 KB, 88 views)
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