Shaved Door Locks - Replace or Not? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2010, 09:27 PM
kbuhagiar's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South San Francisco CA
Posts: 70
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Shaved Door Locks - Replace or Not?

Hello folks,

I need some opinions and observations.

The previous owner of our 47 Plymouth had the door locks removed (shaved). (The exterior door latch handles are still there.) However, he never completed installation of the remote door lock system.

I may just complete installing the remote lock system, but I am also considering reinstalling the manual door locks so I have an alternate method of entry. Of course, the old lock cylinder holes in the doors have been filled in, and would need to be opened up again. My concern is the paint of this car is a 9.7 out of 10, and I would hate to mess it up.

How hard would it be to re-drill (or otherwise re-establish) the holes in the doors for the lock cylinders? If I am real careful, and protect the painted surface, could it be done without damaging the paint?

Or, should I even bother? I am a bit leery about relying solely on an electronic system for locking & unlocking the doors, and would hate to be caught locked out of our vehicle.

Please advise, and thanks in advance!

Cheers, Ken
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2010, 10:02 PM
73oldsman's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Northwest Florida
Posts: 1,116
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I think it would be hard to redrill the key hole and reinstall the door locks without the possibility of damaging the paint. Check out this link http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/...ct_Code=POP-R2 as an example of a pop system. Most, such as this one, have an emergency back-up access kit available in case of electrical failure.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2010, 11:14 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 12,671
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 611
Thanked 945 Times in 845 Posts
My first thought is go scrape the electric locks and put the cylinders back in. But with a nice paint job, you are REALLY asking for trouble. If the guy did a kick butt job and there is no filler or even very little, you could pull it off without much trouble. But if there is poorly applied, thick filler, you could be in for a big mess. I say put the electrics in there and when something goes wrong down the road you can drill the holes out if you have to.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2010, 07:57 AM
kbuhagiar's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South San Francisco CA
Posts: 70
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
My first thought is go scrape the electric locks and put the cylinders back in. But with a nice paint job, you are REALLY asking for trouble. If the guy did a kick butt job and there is no filler or even very little, you could pull it off without much trouble. But if there is poorly applied, thick filler, you could be in for a big mess. I say put the electrics in there and when something goes wrong down the road you can drill the holes out if you have to.

Brian
Good point; never thought about the possibility of body filler.

Cheers, Ken
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2010, 07:57 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,810
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 81 Times in 68 Posts
Brian nailed it. If the door lock holes were not filled properly by welding a close fitting metal patch in the hole and skimming a very light layer of filler over it you could be in for a world of hurt with the paint. My thoughts are you should just go with what you already have and just complete the installation.

FWIW, my opinion on shaved door locks and handles is I don't like them. They look great on custom show cars but are really impractical for driver cars.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2010, 10:53 AM
kbuhagiar's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South San Francisco CA
Posts: 70
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
FWIW, my opinion on shaved door locks and handles is I don't like them. They look great on custom show cars but are really impractical for driver cars.

Vince
Vince,

I agree with you 100%. This car was purchased with driving in mind, not showing. I'm very grateful that the door handles are still in place. Quite frankly, I completely overlooked the fact that the door locks had been shaved when we bought the car (not that it would have made a difference), probably because the door handles were still there.

It's been my experience that most of the car guys who lean towards shaving usually remove handles and locks, not just the locks by themselves. I'm glad the previous owner was the exception to the rule and exercised some restraint.

Cheers, Ken
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2010, 11:03 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,810
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 81 Times in 68 Posts
Ken, is it possible to pull the door panels and get a look at the patched area from behind? That may give you an idea of how it was patched. If it is a welded patch you may be able to drill it out and install the lock cylinders. Start with a small hole and step up slowly to the size need to limit damage to the surrounding paint.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2010, 11:20 AM
kbuhagiar's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South San Francisco CA
Posts: 70
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Ken, is it possible to pull the door panels and get a look at the patched area from behind? That may give you an idea of how it was patched. If it is a welded patch you may be able to drill it out and install the lock cylinders. Start with a small hole and step up slowly to the size need to limit damage to the surrounding paint.

Vince
Great idea, Vince - I was hoping to remove them in the next couple of weeks anyway, to examine the remote lock solenoid installation, and to evaluate the possibility of installing power windows.

I will be posting a separate thread soliciting recommendations on power window conversion kits (Christmas is just around the corner, you know!).

Cheers, Ken
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2010, 08:56 PM
Bryan59EC's Avatar
Car? Truck? Who Cares
 

Last journal entry: First week of December
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Age: 53
Posts: 2,321
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts
My 59 has inoperable door exterior handles.

The key either opens the door or rolls down the window.

And of course, there is a "when all else fails" emergency release.


If you like the door handles working, but are concerned about the electric locks, I see no reason to not put in an emergency release.

Instead of opening the door (and some older models the interior handle will unlock the door) you could just pull a cable to actuate the door lock(s) mechanically.
If your interior release also unlocks the door, an emergency release here would work.

No need to buy a fancy emergency release cable set-----bicycle brake and shift cables work great, are very flexible, and easy to hide in a running board, frame rail or rocker panel
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2010, 06:46 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,810
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 81 Times in 68 Posts
The problem with emergency release cables is car guys know all the hiding places. Might just as well leave the car unlocked with the keys on the seat .

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2010, 08:09 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 12,671
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 611
Thanked 945 Times in 845 Posts
I think the kind of guys who would know were the cable release would be aren't the kind of guys who would steal your car. I may be wrong but that is how I see it.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2010, 06:10 PM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,810
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 81 Times in 68 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
I think the kind of guys who would know were the cable release would be aren't the kind of guys who would steal your car. I may be wrong but that is how I see it.

Brian
I'm not too sure Brian, a lot of times you know the people who will steel your car.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2010, 06:19 PM
Bryan59EC's Avatar
Car? Truck? Who Cares
 

Last journal entry: First week of December
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Age: 53
Posts: 2,321
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts
Yes, BUT---As we all know----Any type of lock or alarm only keeps
honest people honest.

I have inoperable exterior handles------all glass is laminated(yes it is).

These are both theft deterrents---NOT theft proofing

Hidden electrical fuel pump kill-----deterrent----not theft proof.


If someone wants it bad enough, they're going to get it.
I can only attempt to get their arms cut up from getting thru the laminated glass
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Radiator - Repair or Replace??? indy_85stariones General Rodding Tech 6 05-05-2010 10:16 PM
31 Ford - Replace felt window channels earlf31 Body - Exterior 3 02-24-2009 04:51 PM
Do I need to replace the crank arms classicgarage Engine 2 06-16-2008 10:42 PM
Need to replace all my stolen tools Blackdog Garage - Tools 20 12-07-2007 01:38 PM
replace a 5 speed with a 6 speed? dtprula Transmission - Rearend 3 12-17-2004 04:32 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.