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Old 09-10-2002, 04:49 PM
Hellbilly Hotrods
 
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Post shift linkage

hey, y'all. im new to the board, so if i breach the etiquitte, lemme know.
anyway, im looking for information on fabricating spherical rod end shift linkage for my four speed. i was thinking of either using hollow, internally threaded tubing, or solid bars and threading the ends. my questions concern clearance issues and strength.
1. will the rod ends actually clear the levers on the shifter? how would i go about securing them to the arms?
2. will using hollow tubing be strong enough? after bending it to follow the contours of the hurst rods, will it bend when i shift hard?
3. if i go solid, when i use a torch to heat the bar to make the bend, it will make the metal brittle. will this tradeoff in strength be something i should be concerned about?
4. BONUS QUESTION: if i were to redrill the lever arms on the transmission to shorten the throws, is there a rule of thumb on how much closer to drill the holes than the factory?
if it makes a difference, this is a chrysler A833, short extension a-body transmission with the hurst steel bushing, positive stop mechanism.
thanks for the help, guys.
mike

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Old 09-10-2002, 05:42 PM
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I have made custom rods for Hurst shifters using steel tubing, threading the inside and using male rod ends. Bending is a real bear because most rods will need to be bent in different planes and different directions. I have a heavy duty tubing bender, which helps tubing keep from kinking. Can't remember where I got the tool, but think it was an aircraft supply shop of some sort.
DON'T try to redrill the arms, with the holes closer to the pivot point. This will reduce the total travel of the slider inside the transmission and the gears and syncros will not engage completely. Have fun.
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Old 09-11-2002, 04:37 AM
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do you remember what size rod end you used?
how did you fasten them?
thanks for the reply. your the only person ive found so far that knows anything about this, from circle track racers to a hurst engineer.
thanks so much
mike
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Old 09-13-2002, 04:44 AM
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I can't remember what size tubing it was, but it was mild steel and the ID was the correct size so that I didn't have to drill it to thread it. Rod ends usually have the same size threads as the hole in the bearing (for example 3/8" male threads and 3/8" hole). It has been a long time, but I think Hurst uses 3/8" rod diameter. Find a steel distributor who has tubing and inquire about sizes available. To attach the rod ends to the arms I used grade 8 bolts with lock nuts. There isn't much room here so you might have to find special bolts with thinner (height) heads. As you can imagine, all of this is almost impossible to do under the car. I used a fixture to holds the trans steady and secure while I made the rods, which was a trial and error excercise to get them to work without rubbing each other, etc. Once you get these rods built, you will be surprised at how much easier the trans shifts. It is a lot of work but well worth the effort.
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Old 09-13-2002, 08:53 AM
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Talking

i was just thinking something that would work good would be the shifter linkage from a motorcycle. they use the same type of rods and ball joints. You could probably go to a cycle salvage yard and pick up some pieces pretty cheap.

JB
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Old 09-15-2002, 11:00 AM
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thanks a lot guys. this really helps.
so you think that redrilling the arms would be a bad idea? i realize that the sliders would possibly have less travel, but in theory the shorter throw would still move them enough. i have also seen arms on T-10's with two sets of holes, so what gives?
the reason io need shorter throws is twofold:
1. long throws suck.
2. when i put the b-body pistol grip shifetr in, i dont wanna change radio stations when i power shift third. it hurts.
thanks again, guys., ill look into the cycle yards.
mike
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