shop crane modification. safe? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Garage - Tools
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2011, 10:42 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,415
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 61 Times in 57 Posts
shop crane modification. safe?

My shop crane will not go high enough/ boom barely long enough to pull the 460/C6 out of my trucks bed. It was put in there with the trans to the back of the truck. so my chain is barely long enough to reach the crane.. But it just won't go up far enough.. My thinking is I could create a longer boom that will extend the reach out 12" extra or so, but utilize all the bolt locations/ length of the outer tube for structural integrity.. Then take some round or square tubing that is slightly bigger than the cylinder. cut a peice that is 6" or so long, and drill it so that it is an extension of the cylinder and would go higher with less cylinder stroke.. These mods safe for temporary purpose?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2011, 10:55 PM
Blazin72's Avatar
You got a leaky spark tube...
 
Last wiki edit: Rearend removal
Last journal entry: General Lee
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Union, WA
Age: 32
Posts: 2,868
Wiki Edits: 19

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
At a minimum you would have to add counterbalance to the other end of the hoist. I've used mine at full extension a couple times and it was getting a little tipsy with a fully assembled 350 in the bed.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2011, 11:28 PM
evolvo's Avatar
Heathen
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Port Hadlock, Wa
Posts: 575
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 49
Thanked 65 Times in 63 Posts
So the out put end of the tranny is at the tailgate, engine at the cab? Any chance you could just slide the engine/tranny back so you don't have to reach in so far?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2011, 12:18 AM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,415
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 61 Times in 57 Posts
thinking about doing that. it's setting on a tire so it won't hurt the truck. But I will still need to increase the height to lift the engine enough to get it out..

I really prefer A frames with chain hoist's for this issue. but I havn't had time to build 1.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2011, 06:24 AM
willowbilly3's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Body mods
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Black Hills, South Dakota
Age: 61
Posts: 1,208
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Don't extend that cherry picker. If it's a standard sized shop crane you are already overloading it just lifting a 460 with the transmission attached. If you need more height just to get this engine unloaded, maybe you could let the air out of the tires.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2011, 06:35 AM
Irelands child's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Ford engine specifications Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 4,984
Wiki Edits: 8

Thanks: 20
Thanked 242 Times in 218 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by willowbilly3
Don't extend that cherry picker. If it's a standard sized shop crane you are already overloading it just lifting a 460 with the transmission attached. If you need more height just to get this engine unloaded, maybe you could let the air out of the tires.

.....and pull the C6 and torque converter off and maybe even the intake and exhaust manifolds if for no other reason then to reduce the weight. I had to partially disassemble a much lighter 351W in the back of my high F350 one time to do that very thing after the junk yard had put it in with their cherry picker. DON'T extend the boom!!!!

Dave W
__________________
Irelands child
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2011, 07:19 AM
matts37chev's Avatar
I don't understand?
 

Last journal entry: Try again
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Shelton,Wa.
Posts: 2,485
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 26
Thanked 20 Times in 19 Posts
you could make an extension for the bottom of the main post, kinda like a lift block, that bolts in between the base legs and the main upright post.
or just make a new taller post.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2011, 08:05 AM
Jim Rockford's Avatar
World Famous VF-14
 

Last journal entry: Cleaned it up...
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Virginia
Age: 43
Posts: 411
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Remove the tailgate to let you in farther.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2011, 08:10 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Wheelbase database Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3,640
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 6
Thanked 172 Times in 157 Posts
You can't just drag the motor to the back of the bed first? And yes, unbolt the trans from the block.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2011, 08:51 AM
Member
 

Last journal entry: JB's 37 Pickup
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Smoky Mountains
Age: 76
Posts: 2,358
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Your "crane" is a function of leverage. You extend the boom, then you have extended the length of the lever arm. You must extend the length of the legs to neutralize the increase. Additionally, the extension increases the load the cylinder must lift and you possibly exceed the maximum capability of the cylinder. Better options have been suggested since you are at or over the maximum capacity of your "crane". I would remove the tranny and converter in place as mentioned. Then scoot the engine back to a position I could lift it clear of the bed floor from the rear of the truck. Once clear, drive the truck forward and then lower the engine to reduce the center of gravity and move to where I wanted it. Even better, lower it to a dolly that will support all that cast iron and move it.

Trees
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2011, 08:55 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: General Motors transmissions Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: near Yellowstone park
Posts: 4,471
Wiki Edits: 27

Thanks: 13
Thanked 285 Times in 265 Posts
opps !

I saw a kid lifting and engine with a home make crane mounted on a pallet jack. They did not extend the bottom legs and the thing tipped over, bent the oil pan and broke the oil pump. very unsafe. Some rental yards have a towable engine hoist, rubber tires and a trailer hitch. , a lot larger than the normal ones you see. We had one on a job site to install a big water pump and piping for a city water system.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2011, 02:55 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: ny
Posts: 37
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
any trees around? I lift stuff out of the back of my truck 3500 Dodge turbo diesel with a chain and a 2 ton come along over a limb. Just need to lift it and inch or so and then drive the truck away and lower her down to the ground .
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2011, 03:25 PM
CQNRQY
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ontario Canada
Age: 59
Posts: 177
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by trees
Your "crane" is a function of leverage. You extend the boom, then you have extended the length of the lever arm. You must extend the length of the legs to neutralize the increase. Additionally, the extension increases the load the cylinder must lift and you possibly exceed the maximum capability of the cylinder. Better options have been suggested since you are at or over the maximum capacity of your "crane". I would remove the tranny and converter in place as mentioned. Then scoot the engine back to a position I could lift it clear of the bed floor from the rear of the truck. Once clear, drive the truck forward and then lower the engine to reduce the center of gravity and move to where I wanted it. Even better, lower it to a dolly that will support all that cast iron and move it.

Trees
I have to agree with "trees"
You said it write!!!
If you extend the booom the lever is longer and the load rating at the end of the boom will be less!!!
If you go up your lift becomes less stable and will tip over quicker.
Your lift cylinder rating is also something to consider.
If you do extend yourboom length also extend your leg length for better stability and stay clear if it in case the cylinder cant take the extra pressure Do the math on the leaver and pivot pnt.(2;1 vr 3;1 you willy loose 1/2 your liftrating on yourcylinder)
CQNRQY
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2011, 03:25 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,415
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 61 Times in 57 Posts
I got it out with no other mods to the crane than 2 cinder blocks that were filled with concrete to stabalize the rear because the chain was a little off.. I had forgotten about the second bolt hole ( lower on the beam ) that the cylinder can bolt into to gain a higher lift. I used it and it increased the lift height alot. at first I just took some weight off the truck and with the beam all the way out on the 1/2 ton mark, slowly slid the engine/trans back until the the trans was almost off. then slid the beam to the 1 1/2 ton mark, and was able to slide it some more. then I made a trans sling with a ratchet strap around the tail shaft and over the beam ( actually had to offload this backwards ). raised it up till it was away. then was able to drive the truck away...

I havn't a clue what the total weight of that fully loaded 460/C6 is, but I know the engine assembled w/o accessory's is 640lbs, C6 has to be at least another 175lbs I would think, and it wouldn't supprise me to find out it weighs 1/2 ton togther. but The shop crane handled it just fine and it was safe.. needed a come along to release tension on the ratchet strap, and lower the trans down, but once it was 12" or so from the floor, it rolled kinda easy and very stable.. now sits in the corner on a couple tires.. As far as what the shop crane is. it is 1 from Harbor Freight from probably 10-12 years ago or better. 2 ton rating with an 8 ton ram. but it's not the foldable crane they sell now. got it used 5-6 years ago.. I think I'm going to build an A frame gantry hoist out of 2x3x11ga and use a chain hoist. and put wheels on it. should make it a lot easier than what it is now, and I could use it for positioning and lowering the cab over the frame

Oh, and I'm going to build a dolly for it too. but it will have a mount for a radiator, a few gauges and an ignition switch

Last edited by matt167; 04-22-2011 at 03:33 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2011, 04:30 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Toronto
Posts: 360
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
How long is the crane now, and what is the rating of the cylinder?

Moment = Force x distance

Calculate the moment from the pivot or ideally where the cylinder is. Check with your expected weight, and do it with both distances (Extended and not).
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Garage - Tools posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
U-Joint modification UngerMarkus Transmission - Rearend 1 03-14-2011 01:05 PM
Confessions of an autobody shop owner. How to pick a shop to have your car restored. MARTINSR Hotrodders' Lounge 27 01-29-2010 03:22 PM
289 modification 84fordcourier Engine 5 05-12-2009 01:55 PM
Cab-over modification Cabover Body - Exterior 3 09-28-2007 04:05 PM
Now i have a Shop Crane spinn Hotrodders' Lounge 6 03-25-2005 07:46 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.