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Old 09-24-2006, 10:46 AM
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Shop erection plans

I purchased a shop that was originally set up in Oklahoma. A oilfield company then hauled it to south texas but it was never erected. My question is does anyone have old plans that will give me directions or instructions on erecting this shop. The crossbeams are 36' long and the legs were 19' tall. I have laid the slap 36x60. I cut the legs to 12' tall and have the legs and crossbeams erected. What I need are plans that will help me to make sure I get the roofing and siding tin squared to avoid any headaches.

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Old 09-26-2006, 02:08 AM
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We built a shop one time using a mega-built steel building.

We did all the structure and side girts and rafters.
Them we did the sides. Before we hung the panels on the side we measured out and marked 4' intervals. Then when we were hanging panels we lined up the edge of the panel with the mark and made the edge plumb before we screwed it on. That kept the sides fairly straight. Those corragated panels stretch and can be shrunk so they can be aligned pretty easily.

We did the roof the same way. We measured down the ridge our 4' increments and marked them out. Then we aligned the roof panels with the side panels. Remember to start measuring from the same end and your first measurement should be the full panel width to take into account the overlap flange.

If I still had the plans I would copy them and send them to you.

Hope this helps,
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Old 09-26-2006, 08:04 AM
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Be sure to square up the frame before you start skinning it.

1. Recheck the base of the posts -- measure diagonally from corner to corner, then check intermediate posts.

2. Check the sidewalls, again measuring diagonally. It may not have the diagonal brace rods that were originally used for this. Sometimes erectors remove the rods after screwing the sheet metal on!

3. Check the roof frame. Sometimes the brace rods are discarded from the roof after the sheet metal is applied. (I always thought that practice was dumb).

Account for the prevailing winds when you start putting on sheet metal. Point to where your worst storms come from and start your first panel farthest from that. Your laps will be away from the winds, that is, the heavy storms will not be trying to get under the laps to lift the panels.

Do the roof first. You didn't show pictures, but if they're typical purlins for a steel building, they will lay over one way or the other. You will need to straighten them as you go. Take extra time with the first panel to make sure those purlins are standing the way they're supposed to before you screw them off. Don't bother with the screws beside the ribs in the middle, at first; just get the perimeter. With the next and subsequent panels. caulk the rib, lay and position the panel, screw it to the purlins next to the lap rib only, go to the eave and straighten that purlin, measure the width of the panel (they stretch as the ribs get mashed or shrink as the ribs are crushed) and sock a screw in it. Go to the ridge and repeat. (If it takes more than one panel to go from eave to ridge, that 2nd screw goes into the purlin below the lap, not in the way of the lap). Straigten and screw to the other purlins. Now you can either fill in the rest of the screws or move on to the next panel and come back to fill in after all panels are laid. Typical coverage per panel is 36" width. You can shrink or stretch a panel by 1/4" or so as needed to get on the mark. If you find yourself off by an inch, don't try to get it all back in one panel run.

Some pictures would be nice.

You may want to search for the manufacturer's website to see if they have instructions online.
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