i'm currently working out of a 24'x30' foam board insulated, vinyl sided, open joist ceilinged shop. where i am, being that I have extra good insulation, i'm good to down around 30*F with my old field jacket. colder than that, in goes the liner, and out come gloves. (mechanix! )
i have a 'deep east tx' special rigged up for the spray booth, only 'cos it needs it for the paint to pop. not that i enjoy the warmth.

be VERY carefull !Do you have ANY gasoline in the garage(including in the car tank).Gasoline fumes will travel to the stove
and ingnite !If you notice in commercial garages the heater is either outside or 12' overhead(by code).

i heat a 2 car 24 x24 that i paint and do body work in in the winter i get complaints it is too hot in the garage and not warm enough in the house i heat it with a double barrel wood stove that you can get just about anywhere a 30 gallon drum on the bottom and a20 gallon on the top i have been doing it for years it works great if you acces to chopped wood prefrebably oak i will put about 6 logs in before i go in at night and it will last all night if i am painting its really nice to get the temp up about 75 or 80 and almost bake dry the paint but you have to use your head and dont get to crazy with paint fume build up or kabluuuy ialso have a hanger gas furnace that i dont like to use cause i hate those 200 hundred dollar gas bills it works good for me

I'd keep a close eye on any type of a barrel stove, they are prone to burnout on the bottom, seams can also crack. Any type of heater can be dangerous when used around flammables, thinners, gasoline, etc should be kept in another area whenever possible. A hot water heater can cause flammables to combust,although most garages aren't that airtight. A survey on home fires caused by woodburning stoves around 10 years ago found Franklin type of stoves responsible for 60 0/0 of the losses. These are stoves with seams, doors that don't seal tightly, poor material for construction, and clearances to combustibles that aren't followed. Look for stoves that have thick metal construction, welded seams, tight sealing doors with gasketing, UL listed. Any stove that isn't UL listed should have a minimnun of 3 feet to combustibles to meet most building codes. UL listed stoves will have clearances on the back of the stove. I've been installing woodstoves and fireplace inserts for around 12 years in the winter, off season for my real job. I've seen some scary installations where damage has occurred, pyrolysis can take years to cause major damage, sometimes by then it's too late. Be careful. Insurance may not cover damages by improperly installed or home built stoves. Dan

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Hey Ruttro...What Dinger stated. A friend of mine wanted to put in a barrel stove. The insurance told him no. And if he did it anyway insurance would not cover the loss.

Kevin

Last fall, I got the deal of a lifetime on a natural gas Earth Stove. $100, guts feathers and everything! I installed it in my 24+24 with ten foot walls little Geerage and boy! do she work good! No insulation (yet) but, put that baby on high for an hour and it's 65 in the shop.. After that, I throttle it back to medium and it's Tshirt weather till I leave. One of the guys in the car club turned me on to an almost new "Day and Night" downflow gas furnace.It was going to heat the garage till I ran across this dynomite earth stove. Needless to say, anybody wanna buy a gas furnace CHEAP?

Hey Dinger, ya still have those ceramic logs you were talking about? A few more in the Earth Stove wouldn't hurt.

Heater? I just use a flannel coat.

With temperatures in the mid to low 50's, who'd need much more then a jock strap and a light coat of oil??
Frankly, I hate trying to work on the ride all bundled up like some private-party Ebay package. It's kinda like trying to get the lint out of the old bellybutton with boxing gloves on. But that's just me

Yes, forgot to mention the uniform coating of oil!

Hey Prime, I've got a mess of the fake coals, embers and the ceramic fibers that make the logs glow. I'll see if there's any logs around at the store though. Dan

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Thanks Dan - with the kind of weather we've been havin' lately, another log on the fire wouldn't hurt.

Let me know, I'll be glad to pay the damage.

Charlie

Our water heater just developed a hairline crack in the guts. Dad was FURIOUS to find his water and electric bill so high. He was kinda shocked when I offered to buy it off him for $20.

Time to go shopping for furnace parts. I'm gonna try to build one of those oil burners. I have at least 6 gallons of trans fluid I've spilled in a bucket just waiting to keep me warm.



MoocH

my grandfather used a woodburning stove in his shop in -30*C (-20*F) weather, it was a good sized shop too...

up here we do the floor heating stuff with the tubes under the floor, heated by some warm water...

my garage at the moment has a small 220 construction heater, but the garage is all r12 or higher so it stays warm once it gets warm.

I wish I had a heater.........Up here in edmonton its at the least, uncomfortable.
Right now I use a propane fired coleman heater and a 1500 watt electric heater. In about 26,500 hours it heats up the garage up to just above freezing. You guys are spoiled. But then again, Im the one freezing in minus 30C conditions. Okay, smart and spoiled.

I use a 75k kerosene torpedo in a fully insulated 22 x 22 attached garage. Here in Tenn we don't have much of a winter. I have only used 8 gallons of Kerosene since October and I'm out int he shop about 3 nites a week plus the weekend. It only takes about 10 to warm the place up to sweatshirt temp.
It is much harder to cool the place int he summer. 95+ deg days are dam uncomfortable especially if welding or grinding.
I found that If I use an electric fan with a furnace filter it takes out most of the kerosene smell.

be carefull of the gas fumes. I put the lawn mower and gas cans outside.

bentwings