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Old 11-11-2004, 08:04 PM
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Hi! Guys. Got trouble with my 1969 corrvette. Last month i stopped in my driveway and everything went out engine and lights. I noticed that the fusible link at the BAT terminal at the starter caught fire and melted. I splited in a new fusible link and when i turned on the battery disconnect switch the fusible link got hot and than i turned the switch off. --HELP.

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Old 11-11-2004, 09:06 PM
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It usually takes a pretty big short to cook fusable links. I'd start tracing the wire the link is connected to back toward the car and see if it got pinched or rubbed bare.
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Old 11-12-2004, 02:58 AM
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Short...

Doc here:

Ya Gotta remove the short first...LOL..

The Deal is on Corvette..The area around where the starter lives Cooks! look at where you spliced in the fusible link, you'll probably find a bunch of cooked wires just hanging down there.

If you don't find it there, look at the harness going up the right side of the firewall..It's another known offender...The muffler shop kindly welded mine to the collector on the right header when I had a ring leak...Thanks guys!

If those two Don't pan out...get out the meter and continuity check everything that gets power without the key, Alternator, starter wires, horn relay, headlight switch,and the hot side of the fuse buss..One of those will have a DEAD short..(0.00 ohms to ground from the power side) Track down that circuit and/or it's branch circuit and you'll find it.

Hope it helps!

Doc
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Old 11-12-2004, 03:04 AM
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To get you started..

here is a 67-69 Vette Start system ... Start along this route first, then go on to headlights, fuse buss etc...
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Old 11-12-2004, 08:46 PM
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Thanks DOC for the info.---I am not good when it comes to wiring.--Do you know what it would cost to have a 69 vette rewired by a professional shop...Thanks again guys...
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Old 11-13-2004, 01:16 AM
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Wiring

Doc here:

Is the wiring bad enough to warrant a re wire job?

You may want to rethink that....

Vettes are some of the most difficult to wire due to the lack of ground and space to work in, and most of the switching is done through ground (as opposed to power on other cars)Consequently two factors make the price skyrocket...The Name "Corvette" and the fact that it's a pain to work on...

Basic wiring is NOT that hard to do with a proper Diagram, a good DMM and test light, and a lot of patients.

Get A Good manual, and sit down and read it so as you know the diagram in your sleep, before you begin troubleshooting it.

Brush up on your soldering and crimping skills..If you need to replace a wire, use the same size and color, and Solder and heat shrink where ever possible.

When checking circuits, start from the power and work out until you get to the end..It's just logical deduction, followed by" known" good elimination.

Do that and you'll save a butt~load of cash...

I don't know what the Shop rates are in your area, but here it's $99.50 an hour, and I'm almost sure anybody is going to go hourly instead of job rate on that... and on a rewire, (with GM harness, If one can be found) about 10-15 hours..you do the math...Plus parts..and misc hardware..

I think it's well worth learning a new skill...Even if it takes you a winter to do it...PLUS you will have the satisfaction of being able to say "I DID IT"...

Doc
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Old 11-13-2004, 09:50 PM
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It looks like the ignition switch needs to be replaced. I checked it out and the switch seems to be rusty. In order to replace the switch i believe the steering column must be pulled out. It looks like a wire (ppl) goes from the ignition switch to the (s) terminal on the starter. Another wire is connected from the (ppl) wire to the neutral switch. Another wire is going from the ignition switch to the (-) of the coil. And another wire from the (r) connection of the starter to the (+) of the coil. Than we have the battery cable going from the battery to the BAT terminal of the starter which has another wire running from the BAT terminal of the starter to the horn relay. ----------The hard part would be to get the steering wheel out.----Thanks again.
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Old 11-14-2004, 12:27 AM
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So far So good

Doc Here

Dude!

Sounds like you got most of it down already! See, Not as hard as it sounds, If you take your time and Think it through..

I'm not certain, on the 68, But I think after you pull the Steering wheel, Then The Turnsignal Plate, The Coloum "Tubes " unscrew and pull up and out... You Should not have to remove the Whole Column To replace the switch.

To Get the wheel off...just remove the horn ring, and Wheel nut, If you have one use a Wheel puller To get it loose...

If you don't have one, you can buy one cheap enough, or rent one, or If you have a kragens Auto near you, They Loan Tools like That...

Worst comes to worst...You can grab the wheel after you get the nut off and with all your weight "Yank" Straight back...works 1 outta 3 times...

The big "Killer" in Corvette Wiring Is corrosion, due to the uninsulated passenger compartment, and high interior heat, and well sealed car..Given The lack of metal parts condensation settles on the wires..So as you repair stuff..keep an eye out for it and clean with a good electrical cleaner and acid brush.

Keep us updated, I'll help as much as I can...

Doc
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Old 11-14-2004, 02:14 PM
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Thanks for your help DOC. The snow is starting to fly here in Michigan. I am going to let the car set until next spring , getting to cold to work on it. Will let you know what happens....Thanks Again.....
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