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Old 12-04-2009, 03:56 PM
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Shorted battery cable something burned

On my ranger I had the positive battery cable short out against the radiator support, the engine died and everything just shut down. I saw the problem as soon as I got the hood up and pulled the negative terminal loose to break the short and then I made a temporary repair to get back home (this is just a beater farm truck and I was out in the boonies). After taping the bare cable and hooking up the battery it started right up and runs fine but now I have a constant heavy flickering in the gauges, lights and even the radio has a steady popping sound. What do you guys think? Burned out diodes in the alternator or smoked regulator?

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Old 12-04-2009, 04:12 PM
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Hi oldred,
Since I don't know I'll give you my thoughts, maybe I can learn something, that's always a good thing.
I was told a diode is to keep elect flowing in one direction, so I would think it doesn't do anything as far as work unlike the regulator that is constantly switching open & closed causing the interference, another thought is when the short occurred it burnt a spot in the armature or field?
Rich
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Old 12-04-2009, 04:18 PM
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Besides the charging system, some of the smaller ground wires might have taken a hit. I'd prolly want to look over the fusible links, too.
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:41 PM
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take the belt off the alternator and see if the issue goes away. I would be willing to bet you burnt a ground off somewhere or burnt a connection. Try it with out the alt and see what happens. It could be a diode but it wouldnt be my first thought
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Old 12-04-2009, 09:04 PM
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It seems to be charging and I didn't see anything else burned but first thing tomorrow morning I will take the belts off and see what happens and look a little deeper for other burned wires.
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Old 12-05-2009, 05:01 AM
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I doubt that any other wires are burned... the current flow was from the positive cable to ground... nowhere else. That same short caused massive current flow to ground directly from the alternator too. It most likely burned out at least one of the diodes.
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Old 12-05-2009, 02:57 PM
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Ok, with the belts off the flickering stops and with them on but the alternator unplugged (just the plastic plug the battery still connected) the gauges go from wild oscillations to just a light flicker. I am thinking diodes which means in this case a $170 alternator because I can't get these danged things apart.

If anyone knows how to disassemble a 1993 Ford alternator I would really like to know.
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Old 12-05-2009, 04:14 PM
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Don't you have a local rebuilder? We have a couple here that will either rebuild yours or for a reasonable price do an exchange, maybe even Pep Boys( )
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Old 12-05-2009, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAUSS
I doubt that any other wires are burned... the current flow was from the positive cable to ground... nowhere else. That same short caused massive current flow to ground directly from the alternator too. It most likely burned out at least one of the diodes.
The radiator and any other parts are grounded through the negative battery cables. The only ground path to the battery is through the cable(s).

The diodes in that alternator are in an array and can not be replaced individually. You need a rectifier assembly. You would probably be better off with a junk yard unit if you dont have the proper tools to test the one you have.
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Old 12-05-2009, 07:22 PM
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I could easily test the diodes and other internal parts IF I could get the case apart. On this type of Ford alternator (does not have the external fan) the case does not simply separate after the bolts are removed, the older styles are simple and easy to work on but other than changing the regulator these things are not.


Ireland, I will check with the wrecking yard but these alternators are fast moving items since they wear out often and rebuilt ones cost about three times as much as the older type, could not find one the last time I looked. The local rebuilder is an *****#*!^ and if it weren't for the mines keeping him busy he would not have any customers, no one I know will buy anything from him. This guy's attitude is unbelievable.
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Old 12-05-2009, 09:39 PM
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I found the answer on how to get it apart http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...he_new_4g.aspx

your better to float test it ... old red you have a PM
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Old 12-05-2009, 10:21 PM
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I have wondered for a couple of years about how to get these things apart and have asked several people and no one I talked to could tell me, well now I finally know-Thanks!


I still have the old one from the last time and I had decided to cut it apart to see how it was assembled before attempting this one, however I can see now that even if I got it apart without further damage there would be next to nothing I could do for it. Obviously Ford intended this to not be a rebuild-able item and they have succeeded spectacularly!
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Old 12-05-2009, 10:30 PM
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$170 for a '93 Ranger alt?

I paid $95 for the 1 I got for my '92 2.9 Ranger ( V belt ) and $99 for the 1 I got for my '98 2.5 4cyl Ranger.. both from Advance auto, but both worked just fine.. I still own the '98 and it hasn't given a bit of trouble
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Old 12-05-2009, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
rebuilt ones cost about three times as much as the older type, could not find one the last time I looked.
Oldred, is there a chance you could adapt the older design to your Ranger?

I know this is different, but I used a Delco 10SI in place of the mega-dollar Subaru alternator in a DD I own. In this case, the switch was actually easy.
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Old 12-06-2009, 01:57 PM
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I think it's possible to mount a diffrent alt with the 4.0L, and possibly the 3.0. but the 2.3, has an alt that bolts it directly onto a special mount on the side of the block, and all the adjustment is done with the tensioner
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