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Old 10-07-2008, 03:42 PM
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Shortening driveshaft

Hey i need to shorten my drive shaft

i have sresearched the diy way and compared it to the cost it would be to have it done professionally for $130 what did it cost you?? my shaft is off of a camaro

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Old 10-07-2008, 04:10 PM
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Unless you have access to a lathe & have good welding skills don't attempt. It may need to be balanced also.
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Old 10-07-2008, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 31chevy
Hey i need to shorten my drive shaft

i have sresearched the diy way and compared it to the cost it would be to have it done professionally for $130 what did it cost you?? my shaft is off of a camaro
I would try the yellow pages under driveshafts,I had mine shortened and balanced here in Phoenix for $60.
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Old 10-07-2008, 05:05 PM
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There is 2 ways I know it can be done ,but you have to be able to weld , good.

Obviously you have to figure how much your going to take out.

Make sure not to remove any counter weights.

Measure 6 or more times you only get to cut once.

You will need a Piece of "C" channel @ least 2' long & soap stone.

Mark a line on the shaft before you cut it.

#1 Two Cuts with band saw or 14" abrasive or one of them new chop saws .

Clamp the cut shaft to a straight piece of "C" channel .
Leave about 1/32" gap in between the pieces .

Line up the lines.
Tack a weld in 2 to 3 spots then stitch it back together.


#2 One cut on one yolk or the other your choice.

Choose the side with no counter weight.

Your cut measurement will be to the edge of the yolk where it butts to the cast iron.

You can use a die grinder or a torch to remove the metal tube & weld from the cast iron yolk.

When the yolk is cleaned slip the tube over the yolk .

Make sure you butt it up good all the way around.

Line up your "U" joints & the chalk line weld it back up.





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Old 10-07-2008, 05:14 PM
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I copy & pasted this to the WIKI.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...D_drive_shafts

If you care to add to it please feel free to do so .

I will also add this thread to the Hotrodders Knowledge Base.



Rob
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Old 10-07-2008, 06:31 PM
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I had a camaro drive shaft shortened and balanced about 6 months ago,it was about 60$.
About three weeks ago I had to get one lengthened(sold me a new tube).It was 126$ ,That was new tube and installing a Th350 end and 56 ford end.
And they come back painted too.
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Old 10-07-2008, 07:11 PM
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The tube yoke's need to be Installed within .03 to .05 "at the most" to have much of a chance of not having to get it balanced,If its any more, the D/L shop is just gonna cut the yokes out again and your time will be wasted.Honestly it might be easier and faster to just have a D/L shop do it for ya and it will be a done deal.
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Old 10-07-2008, 10:33 PM
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been there done that...

i recently did this myself, and had good results, but im a welder by trade. not trying to blow my own horn. but from that stand point, if you can't weld well, or do not have the correct tools it will not turn out desireable.
but if you are wanting to give it a shot, here's what works.
-as said before, measure twice, cut once.
-mark your measurement with a soapstone or a piece of chalk, on the end without the weights.
-use a wrap-around (its a piece of thick laminated paper thats about 4-6" wide and wraps around the pipe to give you a perfect, true straight line. a good long piece of posterboard will work too. the flat side)
-use a portaband saw if you can(or a hack saw if thats all you have) to score a cut on your line and continue to cut little bits at a time while turning the pipe as you go, so you'll end up with a perfectly square cut. do not use a recip saw as you tend to get a messed up cut with them.
-if reusing the old yoke, you'll have to use a grinder to clean the old excess shaft and weld off.
-put your shaft in a vise.
-depending on the yoke, you may have to flare the pipe to make it fit. heres where an oxy fuel set up with a rose bud will come in handy, or a regular burning tip if you have to, just be careful NOT to hit the handle while heating the shaft. after the end is red hot, you'll have to beat the yoke into the pipe to get your fit. (this may not be needed for your yoke, but i know it was for my chevy.) but use a dead blow hammer if possible, and hit it in the middle as not to break it.
- after you have it in all the way, you need to tack it and square it up the best you can.
-now all you need to do is weld it up. personally, id tig it, but a mig would work just fine too. i wouldn't stick rod it as it tends to be alot hotter and there is more of a chance of blowing through the thin shaft.
-paint or galvenized coating to keep the rust off, and your good to roll!
-a cheap fix to balance it is to use an adjustable hose clamp. move it around till the vibrations go away, then mark that spot and tack a washer on for weight.
it isn't impossible to do yourself, but it will take some time to get good results.
hoped this helped a bit. im just getting into hot rodding myself, and this is what i did trying to save some cash, and it worked out just fine.
ryan
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Old 10-07-2008, 11:21 PM
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If you have a lathe and a dial indicator it's a gravy shot,If you dont,take it to a shop.
1,never butt weld a shaft! "that tube is probably only .065 or .083 thick, "you really dont want your hotrod depending on .083 do ya?" the tube yoke has about a 1/4 butt that presses into the tube,this butt also gives you something to weld to when your welding the pieces together.

2, Be carefull heating the shaft with a torch! the heat will pull the shaft one way or another,I use a torch when I straighten shafts and you would be surprised how little heat it takes to pull .010, You should not have to heat the end of the tube to install the tube yoke.

3. If you decide to cut it apart,Cut at the end of the weld closest to the tube yoke.if you cut a line around the weld, " cut a little at a time" then you will be able to smack the tube yoke out of the tube and still have some of the butt left to press in and to weld too.

My opinion? Save your money and have it done right! I would rather see a new thread saying your new D/L is great,Instead of a major ordeal that messed up your cool ride!
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Old 10-08-2008, 11:59 AM
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I've done it a number of times like Rob says and Tig welded it back together. I use them for temporary roll around drive shafts so the car can be moved under its own power.

Haha the last one I did, I got a replacement good one from the drive shaft repair company. It worked fine no problems. So we decide to have some Sat afternoon fun and see if my home made drive shaft would stand the gaff. 3 big burnouts later boom clunnk, chunk chunk. the rear end busted the caps off destroying the 9 inch pro gears in the process......the home made drive shaft was just hanging there waiting for the next round.

So you can roll your own, you just need to know what you are doing with the TIG welder.
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Old 10-08-2008, 09:24 PM
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does 130 see to high to shorten and balance?? ?? Is it not a hour job??
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Old 10-08-2008, 09:59 PM
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Might be a little high depending on where you are,If they're the only game in town they might have ya by the short hairs
We only charge 95.00,shorten and balance only "no parts" , If there is any one else around shop them also. If you cant find anywhere cheaper it might still be a good idea to pay the extra 35 and then you know its done right.
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Old 10-10-2008, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreet6t9
If you have a lathe and a dial indicator it's a gravy shot,If you dont,take it to a shop.
1,never butt weld a shaft! "that tube is probably only .065 or .083 thick, "you really dont want your hotrod depending on .083 do ya?" the tube yoke has about a 1/4 butt that presses into the tube,this butt also gives you something to weld to when your welding the pieces together.

2, Be carefull heating the shaft with a torch! the heat will pull the shaft one way or another,I use a torch when I straighten shafts and you would be surprised how little heat it takes to pull .010, You should not have to heat the end of the tube to install the tube yoke.

3. If you decide to cut it apart,Cut at the end of the weld closest to the tube yoke.if you cut a line around the weld, " cut a little at a time" then you will be able to smack the tube yoke out of the tube and still have some of the butt left to press in and to weld too.

My opinion? Save your money and have it done right! I would rather see a new thread saying your new D/L is great,Instead of a major ordeal that messed up your cool ride!
This is how we do it at our shop. I went to Spicer school years ago and that is how they reccomend you do it.
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Old 10-10-2008, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM
This is how we do it at our shop. I went to Spicer school years ago and that is how they reccomend you do it.
Exactly! And thats the way Spicer does it now also, We still get training about every 2 years to keep up on the latest new tech on the big semi truck stuff.
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Old 10-10-2008, 05:30 PM
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Oh Yea ...

you will need to grind / file the weld in the tube if its rolled & welded.

In the area that the Yolk slips into the tube for my #2 way.



R
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