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Old 10-30-2012, 04:16 PM
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Should I add power door locks? Reviews and advice needed

I have a 1938 Ford Pickup body running on a 1992 Chevrolet S10 frame. Most of the electrical system is from the S10, I thought this might be relevant. This vehicle is my daily driver.
The way the vehicle is locked from the outside is kind of goofy. I have to lock the driver side door from the inside by push the handle in the opposite direction as I do to open the door. Then, I close the driver door.
My passenger does not lock the door from the inside. I then have to come around to the passenger side to lock the door with a key from the outside.

This is a little annoying so I was considering to add Power door locks with a keyless entry remove system. I have been reading reviews about the different brands of aftermarket power door lock kits and I cannot find one brand that is better than another or more reliable than another.

My questions are: What brand power door lock kits have you used? How did they hold up over the years? I don't want to get locked out of the car.
Do you think I would be able to easily add the power door locks to my vehicle based on the lock and unlock system I described?

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Old 10-30-2012, 04:19 PM
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My 51 F1 is the same way...Its a pain. The trouble with the keyless entry is if the battery goes dead. Can you make it so the key will still unlock that passenger door manually?
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:50 AM
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My '35 iw the same way, and, I put power locks in it (w/remote), and I am using bicycle cables routed to the lcoks for a backup -
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poncho62 View Post
My 51 F1 is the same way...Its a pain. The trouble with the keyless entry is if the battery goes dead. Can you make it so the key will still unlock that passenger door manually?
If i add the power door lock actuators I am planning to lock the door using the door handle. This is the same way you would lock the door from the outside.
If you do this, then the keylock a.k.a. tumbler would not unlock the door. It's basically two different mechanisums.

My battery is currently under my hood. The hood is open and closed from the outside of the vehicle. So, if this were the case I could easily jump start the battery to give enough juice to the door lock actuators. Don't you think???

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Originally Posted by 35WINDOW View Post
My '35 iw the same way, and, I put power locks in it (w/remote), and I am using bicycle cables routed to the lcoks for a backup -
I figured lots of people would respond with this same response but I really dont want to deal with adding a cable that is "hidden" I am worried that might fail or even worse, someone might find that cable and easily get into the car.

IS one brand using more reliable actuators than another? Are the computers that the keyless remote sends the signal to, different from company to company?
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:16 PM
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I'd get the g.m. power lock selniods and just an alarm system.. the alarm will give you a key fob and controll the lock- unlock ..
you're worries about the battery die'n, is that really an issue?
the hood release out side? or relocated?
you can always add a cable to the hood release so you can get to the battery, or if battery is elsewhere, the batt term on alt..
I used the lock acuators from a g body..
,
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riot Racing View Post
I don't want to get locked out of the car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riot Racing View Post
I figured lots of people would respond with this same response but I really dont want to deal with adding a cable that is "hidden" I am worried that might fail or even worse, someone might find that cable and easily get into the car.
most old trucks had this method of locking the doors, with the key only working on the pass door.
not sure what the 38 door latches look like but on my 58 the push buttons are interchangeable.

if you go with power actuators and they fail, if you do not have a back up feature
your only means to get in the truck will be to break a window and disassemble the door in the closed and locked position.
a member posted this in the forum the other day, he was locked out of his trunk and had the fuel cell in the truck.
if you don't have a back up it will fail

i have shaved doors, shaved trunk, shaved gas door and a shaved tonneou cover on my truck
each latch has 3 ways to open it
i use bicycle brake cables and the end fittings to route safety cables through door looms and fenders
in this pic you see the door latch solenoid, above it is one of the safety cables that runs thru the door loom
the solenoid wire broke last week and i was glad i had thought this thru

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Old 11-05-2012, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre View Post

i have shaved doors, shaved trunk, shaved gas door and a shaved tonneou cover on my truck
each latch has 3 ways to open it
i use bicycle brake cables and the end fittings to route safety cables through door looms and fenders
in this pic you see the door latch solenoid, above it is one of the safety cables that runs thru the door loom
the solenoid wire broke last week and i was glad i had thought this thru
You read that correctly; his TRUCK has a TRUNK and a Tonneau....Its an amazing piece of fabrication, engineering and aesthetics.

If you're worried about other people getting into your truck; and you think a cable wont stop them and breaking a vent window WILL? You are sadly mistaken.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riot Racing View Post
I have a 1938 Ford Pickup body running on a 1992 Chevrolet S10 frame. Most of the electrical system is from the S10, I thought this might be relevant. This vehicle is my daily driver.
The way the vehicle is locked from the outside is kind of goofy. I have to lock the driver side door from the inside by push the handle in the opposite direction as I do to open the door. Then, I close the driver door.
My passenger does not lock the door from the inside. I then have to come around to the passenger side to lock the door with a key from the outside.

This is a little annoying so I was considering to add Power door locks with a keyless entry remove system. I have been reading reviews about the different brands of aftermarket power door lock kits and I cannot find one brand that is better than another or more reliable than another.

My questions are: What brand power door lock kits have you used? How did they hold up over the years? I don't want to get locked out of the car.
Do you think I would be able to easily add the power door locks to my vehicle based on the lock and unlock system I described?
Can you find a later; more conventional door lock/handle mechanism that looks similar in design but functions more traditionally?

Secondarily; could you find some way to mount the handles solidly in the horizontal, and add a pushbutton to open/close the door with the lock cylinder underneath it?
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre View Post
most old trucks had this method of locking the doors, with the key only working on the pass door.
not sure what the 38 door latches look like but on my 58 the push buttons are interchangeable.

if you go with power actuators and they fail, if you do not have a back up feature
your only means to get in the truck will be to break a window and disassemble the door in the closed and locked position.
a member posted this in the forum the other day, he was locked out of his trunk and had the fuel cell in the truck.
if you don't have a back up it will fail

i have shaved doors, shaved trunk, shaved gas door and a shaved tonneou cover on my truck
each latch has 3 ways to open it
i use bicycle brake cables and the end fittings to route safety cables through door looms and fenders
in this pic you see the door latch solenoid, above it is one of the safety cables that runs thru the door loom
the solenoid wire broke last week and i was glad i had thought this thru

Is the actuator in your picture used for simply unlatching the door so that your door popper spring opens the door enough for you to open the door by hand?

I ask because i have seen the actuator in your picture used for unlatching doors but not for power door lock systems.
Here is what most power door lock actuators look like in the kits I have seen:
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:55 PM
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you are correct, my solenoids open my doors not lock/unlock them
what i am saying is that if you don't have a secondary means of unlocking your door, by key or cable
when the actuator fails, you will have a hard time getting the door open
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoGear View Post
You read that correctly; his TRUCK has a TRUNK and a Tonneau....Its an amazing piece of fabrication, engineering and aesthetics.

If you're worried about other people getting into your truck; and you think a cable wont stop them and breaking a vent window WILL? You are sadly mistaken.
thanks autogear i appreciate the kudos on my truk

and i agree, breaking the window will get a thief in quickly
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:54 AM
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I ordered the power door lock kit with keyless entry from Autoloc. The kit wil likely arrive next week. I will post picture of the install
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