Should I do the bodywork and paint my own car or pay this guy to do it? - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2009, 02:13 PM
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It's the American way , find a guy down on his luck (way down)...struggling..barely making it weeek to week and then keep him down there by paying him some beer money and food stamps and say you'll tell all your friends if he does a good job..







This is a do it yourself forum

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2009, 02:43 PM
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alright i think its been established by now that i'm gonna venture on it by myself. i just dont wanna **** it up because mistakes cost money.

by the posts on here i now know its feesible to do it on your own.

i just have no experience in welding, or auto painting so the continued input does help me out.

the steps are very confusing to me. plus i dont know how much all of this will ballpark cost me.

again i don't know where to get the metal for the patches i'll be needting to weld in when i cut out the rust spots.
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Old 04-23-2009, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jagarcia05
again i don't know where to get the metal for the patches i'll be needting to weld in when i cut out the rust spots.

I pick pine up from Home Depot or tractor supply, someplace like that.
They sell it in sheets that are like 1.5'x2' or something like that, it isn't quite the same gauge thickness as the stock stuff but then again repop parts arent either, and being thinner it is a bit easier to work with.
Be sure not to get galvanized stuff if you plan on welding it, that stuff creates poisonous fumes.

Total costs are going to depend a lot of the color you choose, brand and how much material you are going to buy.
I just bought a quart of Omni epoxy primer, sand paper and all the goodies needed to paint up the inside of my quarter panels for about $150 the other day.
Mind you this price was for some supplies that i wont need to buy again for a while like: Sand paper, solvents, mixing cups, sanding blocks, bondo spreaders ect.

And keep this in mind, plastic(bondo) can hide a LOT of ugly body work.
My car is a perfect example, looked ok when I bought it but when I stripped it I couldnt believe how bad the welds were and just the amount of crap work that stuff covered.

I didn't have any experience welding or doing body work before I started tearing into my car, but by practicing and working on the parts of the car that are less noticible first you can get in some practice before tackling the stuff that will be seen.
If you have specific questions this site is a great place to find answers, just ask!

Last edited by 69ChevelleAddict; 04-23-2009 at 07:44 AM.
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Old 04-23-2009, 07:50 AM
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Should I...

Good move, THIS IS A DO IT YOURSELF FORUM, ABSOLUTELY! There is plenty of help here, everyone will get you through it without charge.

Start with 60-80 grit sand paper and a block of wood. Remove the necessary trim if you can and sand away to the metal. If you need to trim the rust out, use a tin snips (wear gloves). Home improvement stores or autobody shops have sheet metal. Guess the thickness and ask for help. You can rivet them in place, but the bond will creat an environment to start more rusting later. Weld if you can. The sheet metal can be trimmed and formed with a vise-grip, hammer, any tool you can think of. Give us pictures to help you out. Think ahead about the prep-work. Ask here again before you start. You'll be fine. The jobs always look ugly before its polished.
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:08 AM
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I can not recommend enough, LEAVE IT THE WAY IT IS and wait until you are through with school and have a real job and OR a real place to do it. If you have a real job you can afford to have a REAL bodyman with a real shop do it. If you can't afford that maybe you will have a REAL place to do it yourself and do so.

At this point you should be focusing on your studies and use this old car for what it was meant for, to get you around while going to college.

Letting a guy do the work under the circumstances you have described sounds like a HUGE disaster waiting to happen. I can see the car in a million pieces and bare metal and the guy gets rounded up by immigration and you end up with a half done mess. Or the car gets half done and the guy simply finds out that he is in over his head and has to tell you to take it because he has "real" work in the form of quicker money makers coming in.

Listen to someone with gray hair and has learned a few things, LEAVE THE DAMN CAR ALONE AND WAIT FOR A BETTER TIME IN LIFE TO DO IT.

Brian
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:51 AM
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abrian - totally agrre with you --
but

if this guy wants to make his car look better untill then -- bondo the holes do a good sand job on it and shoot a couple coats of paint -- wet sand and buff-- it will last him for 10 years -- or untill he gets out of school and gets a real job--

btw there --whats your major jagarcia
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2009, 10:00 AM
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drive it the way it is, till your done school, don't get caught up in the fashion show. girls are not interested in cars, their interested in "you" the car is the ice breaker to meet them. find some matching touch up paint and do one panel at a time or scratch or dent this will give you good practice in body work. dont worry about screwing up you can do it again.
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:06 AM
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body work

Young man if its rusted out and needs pieces cut out welded back in good luck like some others said drive it and enjoy school you will be out in the real world before you know it. some would have you believe there is nothing to body work but I know better as I am working a 37 Ford HT that I had a real body man working on until he decided to quit and work on his own 34 so any one doing work on the side as we like to say can quit at any time and call you to come pick yours up and you still got a mess now if its a take it off put it back on job you probably won't have a problem but any thing else goood luck!

39 OLDROD
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2009, 12:14 PM
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Better drive it and enjoy it now cause with the way things are going, your car will only be allowed to be a flower pot for the front yard ................ as to the ladies , they are only interested in you bank account ............period!!!!

And PLENTY of easy sheep to pick from .....
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich27028
abrian - totally agrre with you --
but

if this guy wants to make his car look better untill then -- bondo the holes do a good sand job on it and shoot a couple coats of paint -- wet sand and buff-- it will last him for 10 years -- or untill he gets out of school and gets a real job--

btw there --whats your major jagarcia
im majoring in nursing
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69ChevelleAddict
I pick pine up from Home Depot or tractor supply, someplace like that.
They sell it in sheets that are like 1.5'x2' or something like that, it isn't quite the same gauge thickness as the stock stuff but then again repop parts arent either, and being thinner it is a bit easier to work with.
Be sure not to get galvanized stuff if you plan on welding it, that stuff creates poisonous fumes.

Total costs are going to depend a lot of the color you choose, brand and how much material you are going to buy.
I just bought a quart of Omni epoxy primer, sand paper and all the goodies needed to paint up the inside of my quarter panels for about $150 the other day.
Mind you this price was for some supplies that i wont need to buy again for a while like: Sand paper, solvents, mixing cups, sanding blocks, bondo spreaders ect.

And keep this in mind, plastic(bondo) can hide a LOT of ugly body work.
My car is a perfect example, looked ok when I bought it but when I stripped it I couldnt believe how bad the welds were and just the amount of crap work that stuff covered.

I didn't have any experience welding or doing body work before I started tearing into my car, but by practicing and working on the parts of the car that are less noticible first you can get in some practice before tackling the stuff that will be seen.
If you have specific questions this site is a great place to find answers, just ask!
right and i thank you all for the help youve provided. it really is great to have a forum like this.
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60rodder
Good move, THIS IS A DO IT YOURSELF FORUM, ABSOLUTELY! There is plenty of help here, everyone will get you through it without charge.

Start with 60-80 grit sand paper and a block of wood. Remove the necessary trim if you can and sand away to the metal. If you need to trim the rust out, use a tin snips (wear gloves). Home improvement stores or autobody shops have sheet metal. Guess the thickness and ask for help. You can rivet them in place, but the bond will creat an environment to start more rusting later. Weld if you can. The sheet metal can be trimmed and formed with a vise-grip, hammer, any tool you can think of. Give us pictures to help you out. Think ahead about the prep-work. Ask here again before you start. You'll be fine. The jobs always look ugly before its polished.
i'll post up some pics for you all to see what i'm talking about. maybe you can advise easier that way. just let me get away from the office and i'll snap some shots with my phone and try to paste them in the body of the message i guess.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2009, 01:02 PM
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I just finished a paint job on my truck. I purchased a video from Autobodydepot.com. This video is by Rich Evans and it is called metal to paint. All your questions will be answered. SLOW down and do your research just like you have learned in college. READ, STUDY and take your time. I am 51 years old, and my project has taking me 6 years.

You are welcome to PM me and I can also talk to you on the phone. I will post some pics

Kirk
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2009, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60rodder
Good move, THIS IS A DO IT YOURSELF FORUM, ABSOLUTELY! There is plenty of help here, everyone will get you through it without charge.

Start with 60-80 grit sand paper and a block of wood. Remove the necessary trim if you can and sand away to the metal. If you need to trim the rust out, use a tin snips (wear gloves). Home improvement stores or autobody shops have sheet metal. Guess the thickness and ask for help. You can rivet them in place, but the bond will creat an environment to start more rusting later. Weld if you can. The sheet metal can be trimmed and formed with a vise-grip, hammer, any tool you can think of. Give us pictures to help you out. Think ahead about the prep-work. Ask here again before you start. You'll be fine. The jobs always look ugly before its polished.

Yes, yes, and yes.

You can do corrosion free no weld metal patching with sheet metal from Menards, Home Depot, etc, and auto body adhesive. The adhesive really does a great job of preventing corrosion at the seams.

I do decent metal work with less than $150 in tools. I made my own metal brake. I have a $20 set of hammers and dollies; I got my $20 out of them 6 years ago and they still work great. I bend and crown metal with my workbench, angle iron and cheap clamps. I make bucks out of plywood, screws and glue. I use my imagination and I come up with low and no buck solutions for everything that comes my way. It's not rocket science. A caveman could do it.
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Old 04-27-2009, 02:26 PM
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k i just found out that my tax return is gonna be around 350.00

thats what i have to work with at the moment. could i get the job done with that much cash?

also i've been trying to upload my pictures from phone of the car and its damaged spots on to this thread but i can't figure out how
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