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Old 08-29-2005, 05:32 PM
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Should I run primered or not.

Hello,

I知 doing a frame-off restoration and have totally striped the body. I知 now back to where the whole thing is covered in a fresh coat of 2K primer. I plan on putting a coat of epoxy primer over that and then resuming assembly (glass, hardware etc..). I知 hoping to run the car primered for a couple of months (while I work the bugs out of it) and then a sand it, mask it and spray it with a base/clear finish coat 4 6 months later.

First of all does that sound like a good idea? If I get the body work pretty much complete, can I basically sand and spray over that a few months later?

I assume that I will need to put another coat of primer before I top coat. If so, which primer? Should I go with epoxy again, or 2K?

Another concern is that under the windshield, glass-top and rear-window seals, the epoxy will break down prematurely and start to rust. Will the epoxy hold up under the rubber in those places OK?

Opinions?

Thanks,
Ed

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Old 08-29-2005, 09:08 PM
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You can run it in epoxy for awhile and it'll hold up just fine, but to do the paint right when time allows you should pull your mouldings, trim, etc, sand the whole car down and apply more primer and final sand for paint. The paint job is only as good as the prep work put in.
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Old 08-29-2005, 10:49 PM
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I was wondering if he could epoxy coat like he is planning, then if he knows the color, spray a base around the windsheild etc. Then drive a bit and finish it of in a few months. Then tape off windows, blend body work and shoot the color? Or could there be problems? Would this not be the same as someone who comes into a shop, gets some body work done and then the car is redone in an All over?
I ask because I have been thinking about doing a project this way. Thanks for the help as usual.

Ron
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Old 08-30-2005, 08:53 AM
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Thanks for the replys? I plan on sanding and priming the whole car again. So that doesn't sound like a problem.

What about under the window seals? For the finish coat, I do plan on taking everything off again, but are you suggesting that I also remove the the windshield, rear window and glass top, take the seals off and paint?

It's those places under the seals, where there will only be epoxy primer, that I'm wondering about. I do plan on jambing a couple more things i.e. hood and trunk, so should I shoot some base clear around the window holes there too, or will the epoxy be more than enough protection, given that it is protected under rubber anyways.

Thanks again for your replys and opinions,
Ed

Last edited by EVL_54SunValley; 08-30-2005 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 08-30-2005, 10:21 AM
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the guy that I work for doing bodywork has told me many times that the longer something sits in primer the better it is, or something along that line.
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Old 08-30-2005, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silentlion_69
the guy that I work for doing bodywork has told me many times that the longer something sits in primer the better it is, or something along that line.
I strongly agree with that, but only if it's not being driven
and is kept in a clean dry area.
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Old 08-30-2005, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EVL_54SunValley
Hello,

I知 doing a frame-off restoration and have totally striped the body. I知 now back to where the whole thing is covered in a fresh coat of 2K primer. I plan on putting a coat of epoxy primer over that and then resuming assembly

Thanks,
Ed
I think you did the reverse of what 2k primer suggests, you should have
the epoxy on first, especially any bare metal.
2k is pretty durable but epoxy will protect the metal better.
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Old 08-30-2005, 12:21 PM
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Well Epoxies should not be left in sunlight ever they are extremely UV sensitive, and the UV rays well deteriorate it.
Also epoxies should be sprayed over Etch Primer or Bare Metal not over a porous surface like 2k Primer but it well live.
I would spray the Epoxy with Sealer to try to protect it a little from the UV Rays and then before Paint sand the Sealer down some shoot another coat of 2k Primer sand then shoot another coat of Sealer then shoot the Paint

Also for the window thing Epoxies Are made for dark places wet places. epoxies were made to coat the bottom of ships Were its wet and dark it shold be fine under your seals but not on them. sorry your question confused me

Richard
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Old 08-30-2005, 12:49 PM
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Hmmm.. It's good to know the the epoxy will be OK under the glass seals, but now I wonder about putting it over the 2K. Should I put something else over that instead? The car will be garage kept and only driven occasionallly in less than nice weather and only for a couple of months. Will some kind of sealer over the 2K primer be better than epoxy? I've got etched primer, body filler and 2K on right now.

By the way, just in case this changes things, the firewall, trunk and door jambs are already finish coated.


Thanks again,
Ed
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Old 08-30-2005, 02:13 PM
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how about a sealer

You could use a sealer like NAPA 5500 or 5501 one is grey the other is red oxide. It should hold out, and be water proof. Then you counld use it as a guide coat to block sand. I would put all the 2k on that I wanted before the sealer. I like to let that primer dry well. In my fast turn around shop I have primed in the morning and painted in the afternoon. NOT recommendeedd! I don't think you need weeks in warm climates like now. Most instructions say 140 for 30 min. I would not put epoxy style etching over the 2k. I stays soft and will clog every peice of paper you have. The etching should go under as stated above. I paint directly over the 2k sanded with 500 wet.
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Old 08-31-2005, 12:52 PM
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Thanks for the help, guys. I'll probably go with a sealer now instead of the epoxy.

Appreciate the advice,
Ed
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Old 09-04-2005, 10:43 PM
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One last thing about the sealer. If I only have that under the rubber window seals (without top-coating it), will it be enough protection against any moisture that may get into those places?

Thanks again,
Ed
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Old 09-05-2005, 06:31 AM
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no

If you want the best results. Paint under you rubber and chrome. Paint out and away from your trim an inch or 2. Avoid tape lines, meaning spray the area under and let the overspray lay on you other surfaces. You can sand up to the rubber before you overall painting. If you tape an inch or so away from your trim, you will have a build up tape line that will leave a line, even after sanding. I avoid tape lines even with my primer. It just seems like the heavy build up right at the edge always leaves a line, although very faint. This is also a good time to do your jambs and under hood, and deck. After they are painted you can mask off those areas and paint the outside. I fold my tape lenghwise leaving the sticky side out and use it on the edge of color. The bent tape sucks up the paint and leaves less of a line. The area I'm talking about would be covering the edge of a painted jamb.
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Old 09-06-2005, 09:53 AM
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Thanks for your advice. That should make for a much better job and I can now know for sure that rust isn't starting under my mouldings.

Thanks agian,
Ed
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