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Old 12-29-2010, 12:13 AM
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should i swap trans and rear or wait?

I'm building up my 468 big block outside of my 81 camaro so i have my stock 350, th350 trans and 3.08 posi 10 bolt in the car now. I want to be able to drive my car next summer and might not finish the 468 by then. I'm going to get a strange dana 60 and 4L80 trans with 3000 stall from Jake soon and was thinking I could pull the trans and rear and get my new trans and rear in there so it would be ready to just swap the big block in. This way i could still drive the car even though the new trans would have alot higher stall than the stock 350 would like. Do you think I should just swap the trans and rear for now or just buy the trans and rear and wait to put them in until i finish the engine?

and how hard is it to just swap the trans without pulling the engine?
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:02 AM
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I was also thinking of just finishing the 468 and getting the trans and using the stock 8.5" 10 bolt posi rear end til i can afford it but I don't want to risk breaking the rear end with the 580-600hp, even without racing it. and the cam in the 468 wouldn't work well with the high 3.08 gears. It would be a dog with the 3.08 gears and the OD too.
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Old 12-29-2010, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason7504
I was also thinking of just finishing the 468 and getting the trans and using the stock 8.5" 10 bolt posi rear end til i can afford it but I don't want to risk breaking the rear end with the 580-600hp, even without racing it. and the cam in the 468 wouldn't work well with the high 3.08 gears. It would be a dog with the 3.08 gears and the OD too.
Unless you're hitting that 8.5 w/slicks on a prepped surface or N2O off a trans brake- don't worry about breaking the rear end, they're hell for strong.

Can you break it? Sure. But if you use street rubber, and don't abuse it, I wouldn't worry about it until you swap it out.
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Unless you're hitting that 8.5 w/slicks on a prepped surface or N2O off a trans brake- don't worry about breaking the rear end, they're hell for strong.

Can you break it? Sure. But if you use street rubber, and don't abuse it, I wouldn't worry about it until you swap it out.
so your saying finish the 468 and swap in the trans first? It's gonna be hard to not stomp on the gas pedal alot with the 468 lol

the trouble with just pulling the tranny and not the rear is i gotta shorten the driveshaft and change trans yoke for the 4L80 and when i got the dana 60 I would need to shorten it again and change the pinion yoke to 1350. I don't want to do it twice so that's why i was thinking of doing the rear and trans first and just getting a new driveshaft. My goal is to keep it driveable though
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:00 PM
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If you guys had the money to buy 2 things for the drivetrain, finish 468, get 4L80 trans or get strange dana 60 which would you get?

I heard it's best to build from rear to front so that the drivetrain is able to handle the power. I can build the 468 as i get money but the trans and rear I gotta get in big sums
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:17 PM
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Let me answer w/another question: What is the Camaro going to "be", a weekend toy, a DD, street strip, or?

Is it going to see slicks on a prepped surface, trans brake or nitrous launches?

The reason I ask, is you're not giving the 8-1/2" enough credit. It's nearly as strong as a 12-bolt, the pinion diameters are the same. It only gives up a small amount of ring gear diameter, splines and a couple mounting bolts. The aftermarket axles takes care of the splines, the rest is what it is.

W/a good diff and 30 spline aftermarket axles, this diff will take a ****-load of abuse. It needs to have the tubes welded.

Personally, I've raced w/a bone stock 10-bolt from a '78 TA in a '81 Camaro that stood up to everything a Pontiac 468 could throw at it- at the track w/sticky tires. Never whimpered.

Following is a short thread on the corporate 10-bolt- http://www.camaros.net/forums/archiv...p/t-86061.html
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:39 PM
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The camaro is gonna be a weekend toy/street strip with mostly street time. I might run some drag radials when i go to the track but it will mostly run radials. Yeah i know the 10 bolt can be built strong and I planned on that but i figured out it will cost almost as much as a dana 60 to get new axles, gears, posi, have gears set up, axle tubes welded to center and moser ford bearing ends welded onto housing and the dana 60 will be alot stronger for almost as expensive.

hmm well if you raced with a stock 8.5" than they must be pretty strong even in stock form. Do you think I should get a new driveshaft at that power level? If i up the power late on, i don't wanna worry about the rear end either so that's why i was planning on the dana 60.

As I'm sure you can tell I'm bad at making decisions sometimes lol I don't know if i should finish the 468 and get the trans or trans and rear but It would be sweet to finish the 468 and get the trans so i could drive with the big block
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:45 PM
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do you guys think the stock 350 would drive ok short term with the 4L80 with 3000 stall and dana 60 with 4.10 gears?
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Old 12-29-2010, 02:39 PM
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4L80?? Dam, guy. You sure want a bulletproof deal, what? With the 4L80/Dana 60 w/all the bells and whistles, you'd be set for building a turbo'ed 572 or something!

I don't know about what to do when- but if it was me, I'd do the 10-bolt diff w/gears and axles, finish the 468 BBC and forget about a Dana, forget the 4L80 along w/the control box that's needed and the tunnel mods to get it to fit- and just run a TH2004R w/the needed mods. With the money you'll save, you will be able to finish it all, most likely.

The only way I can see that diff and trans, is if there's a turbo or three stage N2O in the future.
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Old 12-29-2010, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
4L80?? Dam, guy. You sure want a bulletproof deal, what? With the 4L80/Dana 60 w/all the bells and whistles, you'd be set for building a turbo'ed 572 or something!

I don't know about what to do when- but if it was me, I'd do the 10-bolt diff w/gears and axles, finish the 468 BBC and forget about a Dana, forget the 4L80 along w/the control box that's needed and the tunnel mods to get it to fit- and just run a TH2004R w/the needed mods. With the money you'll save, you will be able to finish it all, most likely.

The only way I can see that diff and trans, is if there's a turbo or three stage N2O in the future.
yeah i want a bulletproof set up. I might up the power later on and don't want to have to buy a new trans and rear end so that's why i was planning on getting the 4L80 and i don't need a control box. It's going to be a full manual 4L80. I will need to shorten driveshaft, move crossmember and get a Th400 yoke to swap to the 4L80. A built 2004R isn't much cheaper than the 4L80.

If I built the 10 bolt then i'd get new gears, Truetrac posi and 30 spline axles but I'd also want to get rid of the c-clips and that bumps the price up with the welding needed.

It's gonna be around:
$2000 to finish the 468
$2300 for dana 60 vs $1800 to fully built 10 bolt
$2900 for 4L80 with converter

I only have around $5000 so i can only get 2 of them right now.
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Old 12-29-2010, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason7504
It's gonna be around:
$2000 to finish the 468
$2300 for dana 60 vs $1800 to fully built 10 bolt
$2900 for 4L80 with converter

I only have around $5000 so i can only get 2 of them right now.
I feel ya, man. But the bright side is you have all of it except that list...

I have to believe you when you say $1800 to trick out the 10-bolt. It boggles my mind, when I think I ran a stock LSD w/a set of factory gears and axles w/nothing new except the axle and diff bearings, U-joints and brake shoes.

My trans was 'just' a TH400. I did rebuild it- including a 34 element sprag, though. The clutches and frictions, etc. was a little over $100. After a TransGo shift kit, filter and fluid I suppose I had about $150 in the trans and maybe $100 in the diff. Also, this was in 1990's dollars, so would be about $425 in todays money...

But there's nothing wrong w/going bulletproof, that's for sure. A solid foundation will always hold you in good stead.
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
I feel ya, man. But the bright side is you have all of it except that list...

I have to believe you when you say $1800 to trick out the 10-bolt. It boggles my mind, when I think I ran a stock LSD w/a set of factory gears and axles w/nothing new except the axle and diff bearings, U-joints and brake shoes.

My trans was 'just' a TH400. I did rebuild it- including a 34 element sprag, though. The clutches and frictions, etc. was a little over $100. After a TransGo shift kit, filter and fluid I suppose I had about $150 in the trans and maybe $100 in the diff. Also, this was in 1990's dollars, so would be about $425 in todays money...

But there's nothing wrong w/going bulletproof, that's for sure. A solid foundation will always hold you in good stead.
yeah the parts alone to trick out the 10 bolt are around $1300 then $300 to have gears set up and then like $200 for welding..which is only like 400 cheaper than the dana 60. Oh well that's awesome you didn't have to put much into the diff and trans. If I had gone with a TH400 instead I could of done everything but i want the OD I'm leaning towards finishing the 468 and getting the trans and just running the stock rear for now..
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:33 AM
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i say finish the motor and then see how much money you have left at that point and go from there
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Old 12-30-2010, 01:37 PM
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I would have to agree, get it up and running, then deal w/the rest.
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Old 12-31-2010, 09:28 AM
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Not sure how you can get $1800 into a 10 bolt if you already have the 10 bolt now?
axles-$150 ea.
ring & pinion-$200
Strange c-clip kit-$130
Locker-$400
Setup-$325
That comes to around $1250 if you pay the high price of $325 labor, but I have seen the labor as cheap as $200 some places if it's out of the car.
Save the money and go with a built 10 bolt 8.5".
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