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  #181 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2010, 08:29 PM
Check your spark plug gaps
 
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maybe a bilge pump for a boat
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  #182 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2010, 10:40 PM
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Sandblasting Cabinet

Just wanted to let you all see the mostly finished cabinet. Only two things left for me to do. Hook up one of my shop vacs to use as the venting system and a couple ground straps inside to help direct any charges that may build up.
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  #183 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2010, 05:35 AM
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Hi,

I am new to this forum, and want to explore new things about techniques and tools used in garage.

I have a Query : Is there any home made tools for welding rods so that joint form will stay for longer period of time? Or a better technique to weld, because every time I made a joint, somethings happens to it, and the joint got broken. If some one can suggest me something, then I will be heartly thankful to that person.

Thanks and Regards.
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  #184 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2010, 08:55 AM
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Welding

Haven't done much stick welding but have done plenty of MIG. When I find that happening, it usually indicates I'm not getting good enough penetration. Poor penetration can cause the welds to end up barely attached. I attached two pics. The first one is poor, and the second one is good. I would start by examining your welds and maybe practice on some pieces till you get a weld that can't be broken with a hammer.
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  #185 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2010, 12:00 PM
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rod size

Hey bro, can you give a little more info? What are you welding, what size rod and type. I.E. 7018, 6011 etc. You did say your stick welding right? Are your rods dry and your ground is solid for every weld? One more question, why aren't you mig welding it. Don't get me wrong I love stick welding, but some times mig welding is just more practical on a project.
Good luck on your project What are you building anyway?
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  #186 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 03:28 AM
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Hi rfurgy,

Thanks a lot for your suggestion I will definitely, keep your point in mind next time when I weld. My father told me that the problem is in the uniform movement of welding rod, and I am working on it.

Thanks and Regards
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  #187 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2010, 07:24 PM
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Along the lines of the brake bleeder is my transfer case and differential filler. It is made from a 2qt jar, a metal disc in place of the glass cap with a tube and an airline fitting soldered on. It can be used with a bicycle pump,or very low air pressure from a regulator. Make sure to remove the valve core so it stops when you want it to.
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  #188 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2010, 07:31 PM
Show me the money !
 
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[QUOTE=NOBLNG]Along the lines of the brake bleeder is my transfer case and differential filler. It is made from a 2qt jar, a metal disc in place of the glass cap with a tube and an airline fitting soldered on. It can be used with a bicycle pump,or very low air pressure from a regulator. Make sure to remove the valve core so it stops when you want it to.


Its the simple ones that make you smile when you use them . I may have to make myself one of those!
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  #189 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2010, 07:47 PM
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Useful adaption to spray gun.

Thats a great idea noblng for an awkward spot to pour oil. Trying to pour oil uphill is a pain, especially around the diff/gearbox.
Here is one idea i found on this web site and put to use for spraying uphill . I cant remember who posted but it works great. It allowed me to spray under the dash and under the guards inside the trunk in my mustang where there was originally no paint. Just add a small piece of fuel hose and push two air hose fittings into each end.Trick was to spray with your head up under neath and not fume yourself out.
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  #190 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2010, 08:37 PM
Check your spark plug gaps
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOBLNG
Along the lines of the brake bleeder is my transfer case and differential filler. It is made from a 2qt jar, a metal disc in place of the glass cap with a tube and an airline fitting soldered on. It can be used with a bicycle pump,or very low air pressure from a regulator. Make sure to remove the valve core so it stops when you want it to.
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  #191 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2010, 02:13 PM
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How’s that hopey-changey thing
 
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Not a home made tool but a modified one. I see post from time to time asking about turning a wood band saw into a metal saw . Here is a couple of shots of the reduction it takes to make that happen . Just an fyi
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  #192 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2010, 08:33 PM
Im trying to have an idea!
 
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where did you find the info to do that? I want to do the same to my Craftsman.
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  #193 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2010, 05:18 AM
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What I like is the the ironworker sitting on the I beam welding....What cha building Pepi ?
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  #194 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2010, 05:47 AM
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How’s that hopey-changey thing
 
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deadbodyman, that is going to be my welding sign, it needs another 5 ft beam so I can plant it. Not an original idea, just something different.

For the reduction the large pulley is 10.5 granger;http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BRO...805?Pid=search

The small 3 stage pulley is actually a piece made by JET it is a; 3SP-14 three speed kit, that is the name and part number needed to find it.

The first attempt just using the Jet kit did not slow the saw down enough. The big pulley was the answer.
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  #195 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2010, 10:24 AM
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That sign is AWESOME! Beautiful job Pepi! I love the "sparks" coming off the arc!

A friend of mine who owns a local muffler shop had an awesome display with the name of the shop spelled out using muffler pipe. But other shops in the building complained because it looked like the whole building housing a number of other shops was all the same muffler shop and the landlord made him take it down, or at least made him remove his name.

I'll try to get a picture of it. But I have to say, the art you have made there is much better. I love that stuff!

Brian
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