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  #196 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 08:14 AM
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How’s that hopey-changey thing
 
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Thanks Brian,

I for one enjoy the phots you post seen some good stuff from that camera.

pepi

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  #197 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 07:07 PM
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How’s that hopey-changey thing
 
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It had to have a belt guard. To cold to paint it, so it will fly raw. The ban-saw makes sheet metal work a much easier task. Cut off disks were the tool before, the saw makes truer cuts, speeds things up.
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  #198 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2010, 06:49 PM
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I dont have pics, but if someone would like some i can get them up...

I made a tire grooving stand, for cutting grooves in dirt track racing tires. Usually I had to sit in a chair, hold the tire between my legs, and groove about a 6 inch area, then spin the tire some and do it again. But, this year I took an old rotor, with my bolt pattern on it, welded a bolt to my overhead hoist, then took a big washer and welded it to the bolt. Next i took the rotor, with the bearing still inside, and stuck it over the bolt. The rear bearings contacted the washer, then took another washer for the front, and put a nut on the bolt. Now i can stand while i grove tires, and just spin the tire a little bit! Took a 30 min/tire job and turned it into a 5 min/tire job! Also works great for siping, and grinding the tires!!

Also, we had to pull the trans out of the car alot this year, 3 speed saginaw. So we took some 6 inch long bolts that fit the bellhousing where the trans bolts up, cut the heads off and then ground the ends round! now we just stick the trans up, and use the bolts as long dowel pins! makes putting a trans in A LOT faster!

Then for speedy pit stops, i took my 1 inch impact socket, and spot welded a light valve spring inside, so when the nut comes loose, you pull the socket away and the nut pops out of the socket!

We also have put a skid on our jack, to aid in manuvering on dirt, ran a controller from the valve up the handle so we dont have to take the handle off to let the car down, and put a big foot on the lifting part of the jack to keep the car stable during a fericious tire change!
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  #199 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2010, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRoy1978


Then for speedy pit stops, i took my 1 inch impact socket, and spot welded a light valve spring inside, so when the nut comes loose, you pull the socket away and the nut pops out of the socket!
I like it.
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  #200 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2010, 07:34 PM
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The long bolt idea is a good one, would make a breeze of lining up the input shaft through the clutch.

Reminds me of doing a similar thing on Peugeot cylinder heads, the engine leans over at 45° like one bank of a V8, but there are no dowels. Two head bolts with the heads rounded off and flats for screwing them out, makes it a breeze...

And on the Peugeot the bellhousing is very tight in around the floor, so we get long bolts into the crossmember and drop it 2", engine and all drops, all the wiring is long enough and there's enough flex in the radiator hoses.

Then it's easy to get the box in and out.
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  #201 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2010, 08:42 PM
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When i used to work on heavy trucks, thats how we would put third members, trannys, hubs...almost anything really heavy on! that and its all lined up pretty much.
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  #202 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2010, 10:13 PM
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pilot bearing alignment

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRoy1978
When i used to work on heavy trucks, thats how we would put third members, trannys, hubs...almost anything really heavy on! that and its all lined up pretty much.
If you're having trouble with pilot bearing alignment and you're alone, you can put valve springs, washers nuts on the long studs, snug up some, pull the coil wire hit the clutch turn it over a bit and it will snap in every time.
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  #203 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2010, 11:29 PM
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thats what i used to do, but the racecar has a hydraulic throwout bearing, so it doesnt work very good.
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  #204 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2010, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRoy1978
thats what i used to do, but the racecar has a hydraulic throwout bearing, so it doesnt work very good.
I have also used studs for intake manifold installs. 2 on one side will make it sit down straight and keep you from hurting the gaskets or the RTV bead.
Used to have quite an assortment of them when we did a lot of clutch work. Always used them to reinstall trannys, made life easy and if you were working alone made it so you could rest for a few seconds letting the studs support the transmission.
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  #205 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2010, 03:38 PM
Im trying to have an idea!
 
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made something else kinda worth posting. I needed a seat that had a greater rating of 200lbs . I had some scrap sch40 laying around and thought to put it to good use. These pics are from my phone, I have no clue where I set my good camera . The seat lays at about 16" at the lowest setting and at about 30" on the highest setting. All flux core welded.

first pic is of the metal cut/ drilled ready to be welded.


welded all together. found that seat at a scrap yard. think there from the bottom of some tanks.





got my paint from local auto store


primed, also added a cross bar for feet rest. casters are from harbor freight




all painted

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  #206 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2010, 04:01 PM
Im trying to have an idea!
 
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also scored a 10x4 steel table off criags list. the owner told me that it weights about 350lbs; I was like uhhhh yea right. 1/4" solid top with 4" 1/4" thick tube legs with a separate leg for mounting a vise to. think you can see my new vise (that i scored on craigslist for 40bucks) in picture above. I welded up a couple of wheels and front steer wheel so we could move that heavy sucker. harbor freight had them on sale, good price too.

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  #207 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2010, 09:59 PM
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Another idea

On a more "modest" note - ever need an automatic rewinder/retractor for power cords? Got an old (junk) vacuum cleaner around? Now, just before you toss it out, salvage that automatic cord retractor on it, change the end to a female and out a male on the part that was inside the vacuum and there you are ......

I have one mounted at the end of my workbench for whatever I need to plug in, but with a minor tug and release, its out of the way again!
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  #208 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2010, 10:03 PM
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Smart thinkin.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave57210
On a more "modest" note - ever need an automatic rewinder/retractor for power cords? Got an old (junk) vacuum cleaner around? Now, just before you toss it out, salvage that automatic cord retractor on it, change the end to a female and out a male on the part that was inside the vacuum and there you are ......

I have one mounted at the end of my workbench for whatever I need to plug in, but with a minor tug and release, its out of the way again!
Just too clever . Almost threw my old vacuum cleaner out of the workshop into the garbage. I now have a new use for it. Thanks
al from downunda.
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  #209 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2011, 12:38 PM
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Built circuit to control/automate a kiln. Uses, powdercoating, heat treating metals. Good up to a little over 2000 degrees. I set climb rate, max temp, holding time. I can add anything with programing if I need:







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  #210 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2011, 02:29 PM
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on powder coating.

[QUOTE=gow589]Built circuit to control/automate a kiln. Uses, powdercoating, heat treating metals. Good up to a little over 2000 degrees. I set climb rate, max temp, holding time. I can add anything with programing if I need:


I like it............. I'm behind the curve on powder coating.. Could you tell me what kinds of Temps are required to powder coat? My neighbor set up an oven with a 48" x 48" stainless box and insulated it with oven foil and layers of duct liner glass.. But he used elements, thermostat and controls from a 220 range/oven. So I'm thinking he's running at 500f or less. Does that do it, or are there various powder coatings with differing specs?

I ask thinking maybe I'm not the only one who doesn't know.. Hopefully
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