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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2009, 09:46 AM
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Rear pan roller.

Here's another very crude "tool" for rolling a rear pan. It's fairly similar to the tool/technique I showed above but operates upside down. The flat piece of sheet metal is laid on the table and the PVC pipe is laid down it's center line and clamped in place. A 1x2 length of tubing is clamped directly behind the pipe to help hold the pipe and the sheet metal in place. A length of angle iron is placed along the front edge of the sheet metal and is clamped in place in necessary. This piece of angle iron is used as your lifting point or prying point so that the sheet metal is bent fairly uniformly across the entire length (otherwise you'll get some pretty ugly warping and waving in the sheet metal.) I use a combination of lifting or prying on the angle iron while smacking the sheet with my plastic headed mallet.

You then turn everything over and do your final shaping around the PVC pipe with a plastic mallet. (Photo 2)

And a final shot of the rolled pan welding onto the pickup bed.






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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2009, 10:02 AM
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Tool for sweeping bends in square tubing.

Talk about crude tools...this is the one I used for bending the ribs for the body of my roadster. The tool consists of a "form", 3/4" particle board cut to the inside shape I want the ribs. The form is then bolted to the side of the garage and a length of 1x1 tubing is then clamped to the top of the form. a come-a-long is then attached to the other end of the tubing and secured with a bolt to a garage stud. Then just crank.

Here's a shot of the "tool", a bunch of ribs that I bent with it, and a shot of how these ribs were used to form the rear section of my '31 roadster body. More info on the bending process can be seen here.





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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2009, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
Tool for sweeping bends in square tubing.

Talk about crude tools...this is the one I used for bending the ribs for the body of my roadster. The tool consists of a "form", 3/4" particle board cut to the inside shape I want the ribs. The form is then bolted to the side of the garage and a length of 1x1 tubing is then clamped to the top of the form. a come-a-long is then attached to the other end of the tubing and secured with a bolt to a garage stud. Then just crank.

Here's a shot of the "tool", a bunch of ribs that I bent with it, and a shot of how these ribs were used to form the rear section of my '31 roadster body. More info on the bending process can be seen here.
Now that's downright creative! BTW, how's Dan doing on your interior? Haven't heard any progress reports...

Forgot about my circle cutter. When I bought my plasma cutter, the first thing I needed to cut was a round hole. I made this jig from 1/8" aluminum, it cuts holes from 2" through 16" diameter in 1/8" increments...

Russ
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2009, 04:35 PM
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I don't have any pictures but throw away your putty knives for scraping gaskets. I grind down the end of a flat file to a sharp edge and it works super. Files are brittle and don't bend so they make the perfect gasket scraper.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2009, 05:45 AM
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Electrical plug connector gizmo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crussell85
I just thought it would be cool to hear of peoples home made tools that worked to do the job, or even better if it worked better than the actual tool did.
I have the job of removing the pins from a steering column connector plug on a 67 Mustang. The pins have barbs on the tips to prevent them from coming out so a small piece of steel was turned up on a lathe with a 2mm hole drilled through the centre. If you push the hollow steel tube into the plug and over the pin, the barb can be compressed and the wire can be withdrawn from the other side. You can also use the 2mm drill to insert into the tube and push out the pin if it is stubborn.

Cheers from downunder.
Al.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2009, 07:10 AM
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You guys make me feel like taking my stool and dunce cap to the corner and face the walls!!! Great ideals that I will just have to copy!!! I'll get a shot of my big tool (PG 13) and post tonight.

Trees
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2009, 10:02 AM
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For God's sake Dewey do you buy ANYTHING? You're making the car from scratch with tools you make from scratch, did you cut the friggin trees down and mill the lumber for the garage too?

Brian
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2009, 12:58 PM
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Here's a couple I made...
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2009, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
For God's sake Dewey do you buy ANYTHING? You're making the car from scratch with tools you make from scratch, did you cut the friggin trees down and mill the lumber for the garage too?

Brian
I think he was smelting the metal for the panels also

Nice job.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2009, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
I'v got a preassurized engine lubricator.. built with plumbing parts and threads into a 3/8" oil galley plug
Matt - could you post pics of your lubricator and/or describe the details. Thanks
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2009, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trees
You guys make me feel like taking my stool and dunce cap to the corner and face the walls!!! Great ideals that I will just have to copy!!! I'll get a shot of my big tool (PG 13) and post tonight.

Trees
Just a thought. Has someone invented a tool that can finish the body of this 67 Mustang so i can shuv the engine in it.
Al.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2009, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 406 bug
Matt - could you post pics of your lubricator and/or describe the details. Thanks
have to remove the pipe on the top and funnel in oil ( bout 1 quart ).. then put it back.. thread in the barb at the end of the hose into the block.. add 30-60 PSI of air and open the valve... top gauge is air preassure at the gauge and the bottom gauge is the oil preassure going into the engine.. should be a little bigger capacity tho. it only takes a few seconds to empty it.. havn't used it in a couple years but it works good for checking oil flow to the rockers and stuff. I still use the drill to prime my engines
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2009, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
... did you cut the friggin trees down and mill the lumber for the garage too?
No, but speaking of cutting down trees reminds me of another tool I forgot to mention. This is my "stump set".

Back in the old days bodies were often formed by hammering and shaping metal using stumps and beater bags. Many of the early Ferrari and other sports car coaches were made this way. The tradition goes back for eons.

So after doing a little reading on the subject, I headed out to the woods and took down a dying oak tree to make these metal forming stumps. I cut mine at about 36" tall so they are at a comfortable workbench height. Then I cut and formed various shapes into the top and sides of each stump (I made three altogether). These shapes are then used as a form or solid backing to hammer the metal against. Hopefully the pictures will explain the usefullness of this addition to my "crude tool" collection.

The last 3 pictures show how the stump formed metal technique was put to use on my sedan delivery forming some of the more difficult compound curves like the rear corner...and the final outcome. Not a bad tool for $.00 cost.

















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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2009, 02:15 PM
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Hey Cboy

Sir, You have the patience of a Saint and the eye of an Artist, awesome. olnolan
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Old 09-14-2009, 04:05 PM
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Crank Sprocket Puller

Crank sprocket pulling head. My two jaw and three jaw wouldn't grab without slipping off, so I made this. Cost $0.00, scrap plate, bolts, washers. Make plate to fit, drill and tap holes in plate(fine thread is stronger). Slip plate behind sprocket, mount puller, pops right off.
Works with either puller in photo.

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