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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 04:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S10xGN
Here are 2 that I made, the first is a "hole saw" for nylon carpet made from a 2" piece of 5/8" SS tubing with a washer welded to the end and a long bolt (cut off head and grind to a point) nutted tthrough the washer. I heat it up with a propane torch and use it to drill holes in carpet for seats, consoles, etc. Use the "point" to locate the saw through the carpet (into the bolt hole).

The second is a pressurized brake bleeder that uses ~ 30# of air pressure to force brake fluid through the lines, making brake bleeding a one man job. Use a large "C" clamp to hold 'er down.

Russ
Ok I really like the brake bleeder and I have a need for it right now,So,since I'm not much of a mechanic ,can you explain where tthis goes and how to use it? Thanks ,Mike

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 04:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
Jitterbug speed controller.

This is more of a tool "modification" than a tool fabrication. I needed to control the speed on my jitterbug sander when working in tight quarters or near edges and curves. This little bolt through the paddle switch arm did the trick.



Good one cboy, I'm stealling this one too.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 04:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 454 Rattler
That goes for all these tools.

I'd rather make it than buy it !!


454 RATTLER
I swear...I thought I I had some cool stuff ,but ,You guys......454 you took the words right out of my mouth...This one I didnt invent or modify but I did think of a new material to make it out of (an old wheel cut in half) it keeps your hose from getting caught in your tires when walking around a car (very agrivating problem)with four of them you can walk around a car till you run out of hoe's
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Mustang Al.
I have the job of removing the pins from a steering column connector plug on a 67 Mustang. The pins have barbs on the tips to prevent them from coming out so a small piece of steel was turned up on a lathe with a 2mm hole drilled through the centre. If you push the hollow steel tube into the plug and over the pin, the barb can be compressed and the wire can be withdrawn from the other side. You can also use the 2mm drill to insert into the tube and push out the pin if it is stubborn.

Cheers from downunder.
Al.
I dont know how many times I tried to remove those pins and failed...Thank you so much...BTW,I'm good friends with the Rodders life crew,from down under ,Especially Roman.Aussies are some of the best oldschoolers there are
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 06:26 AM
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CBoy, I modified my touch up gun to give me the "no leak" inverted paint capability. Works like a charm!! I went back and looked at yours again and noticed the 90* elbow for the air intake and still need to do that. Since I have a small pressure regulator installed on the inlet nipple, the hose end gets a bit long for tight places and you provided the answer for that.

Thanks!!

Trees
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trees
Works like a charm!!
Always four great words to hear. Post up a pic if you can snap one.
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Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Mustang Al.
Just a thought. Has someone invented a tool that can finish the body of this 67 Mustang so i can shuv the engine in it.
Al.
Bloody L Mate ....how fast does that mower go? I know.....not fast enough.......LOL...
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
No, but speaking of cutting down trees reminds me of another tool I forgot to mention. This is my "stump set".

Back in the old days bodies were often formed by hammering and shaping metal using stumps and beater bags. Many of the early Ferrari and other sports car coaches were made this way. The tradition goes back for eons.

So after doing a little reading on the subject, I headed out to the woods and took down a dying oak tree to make these metal forming stumps. I cut mine at about 36" tall so they are at a comfortable workbench height. Then I cut and formed various shapes into the top and sides of each stump (I made three altogether). These shapes are then used as a form or solid backing to hammer the metal against. Hopefully the pictures will explain the usefullness of this addition to my "crude tool" collection.

The last 3 pictures show how the stump formed metal technique was put to use on my sedan delivery forming some of the more difficult compound curves like the rear corner...and the final outcome. Not a bad tool for $.00 cost.

















I'm totaly impressed.... I'm making some...Stolen by DBM
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Ok I really like the brake bleeder and I have a need for it right now,So,since I'm not much of a mechanic ,can you explain where tthis goes and how to use it? Thanks ,Mike
Mike,

Remove the master cylinder cover and clamp it down (rubber gasket included) with a large C-clamp. Use regulated shop air to put 20 PSI on it, then bleed you brakes as usual...

Russ
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S10xGN
Mike,

Remove the master cylinder cover and clamp it down (rubber gasket included) with a large C-clamp. Use regulated shop air to put 20 PSI on it, then bleed you brakes as usual...

Russ
no need to touch the pedal? my master is a 89 camero with a plastic tank ....still 20lbs? I'll pm you....thanks S10,I think I got a mudd daubber problem that'll help locate the plug in the front brakes,had the wife pumping the other day....what a nightmare....you may have saved my life too...if I asked her again....
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
no need to touch the pedal? my master is a 89 camero with a plastic tank ....still 20lbs? I'll pm you....thanks S10,I think I got a mudd daubber problem that'll help locate the plug in the front brakes,had the wife pumping the other day....what a nightmare....you may have saved my life too...if I asked her again....
Ohhh, mine's cast iron, never thought about the newer plastic reservoirs... It should be okay. You might try a couple PSI (watch it close!), upping the pressure and checking for any deformation. Once you get pressure on the fluid, you won't need to pump the pedal. It's like gravity bleeding on speed!

Russ
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2009, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S10xGN
Ohhh, mine's cast iron, never thought about the newer plastic reservoirs... It should be okay. You might try a couple PSI (watch it close!), upping the pressure and checking for any deformation. Once you get pressure on the fluid, you won't need to pump the pedal. It's like gravity bleeding on speed!

Russ
Ok ,that makes sense.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2009, 04:50 PM
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CBoy, here are the pics of the modified gun. I used a clear chemical feed hose so I could see the progress of the paint in the long tube. It effectively increased the capacity of the little can some what at the same time get the pot completely out of the way. I have not installed the elbow, but will get one in the near future.

Trees
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2009, 11:43 PM
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Russ, just finished the brakes... the air bleeder worked great,started with 5lbs but it didnt need any more to work...I just loosend the fittings till I found where no fluid came out and as I suspected the rubber lines were pluged.they work fine now,Thanks,I owe ya one...Mike
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2009, 07:45 PM
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since I owe ya's one ,heres two a simple ones a scissor jack with a 1/2" drive scoket welded on for very fast jacking with an impact wrench or air ratchet and it really comes in handy in tight spots like when jacking out a crushed 1/4 to remove it....and a pair of vice grips with half round tube welded on for making wheel wells and tight curves
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