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Boy, we really must not have anything better to do than go on a witch hunt.
Oh well.... there "appears" to be only 2 pipes in the area I marked, but then again I'm getting old and the eyes aren't as good as they used to be. Nice looking car none the less. |
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guys, I need to fit a new crankshaft ballancer to my big block chevy are there any tricks that I need to know ( this is all new to me)
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depends what you have. does it have a tapped crank snout? if not then it makes it a little tougher. if you have early Gen BBC then they might not be tapped. and to install the damper you may need to beat it on. you will need a puller to remove the old one. you can get one from a good parts store.
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Cheers, I have taken the old one off with a puller, that was a job and a half. It is not tapered but I am replacing it with a chrome one, I was wondering if I placed it into the oven for 10 min @ 100?C it would go on a bit easier ??
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wait tapered or tapped? tapped as in threaded and a bolt that holds it on. if it's an early gen motor then i'm pretty sure it is probably not tapped. kind of like my 283 from a 61 impala. no damper bolt. not sure about the oven might work. but if you have the threaded snout, just use the install tool and it will help. if not then, 2X4 and a BFH
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It's a 454 block 68 I understand it has a centre bolt, looks like the 2X4 option with plenty of lube !
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naw if it's tapped then you can get use an installer and draw it on slowly. that would be the best bet. there's a piece that threads into the snout, then a large nut and washer that you crank down holding the center piece with a wrench to slowly draw it on. makes i way easier. beating it on you can damage the damper. i would recommend getting and installation tool.
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I think you are right, I will check out the speed shop tomorrow
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Yes, a Mark IV 454 crank is "tapped" (threaded) It also has a groove in it for a woodruff key. I haven't done a lot of these, but this is the way that I was taught. Install the woodruff key, and GENTLY tap it down into position using a non-marking hammer. Lube the crank snout and balancer keyway with a light film of engine oil. Slide the balancer into position, aligning the woodruff key to the groove in the balancer. Lube the sealing surface of the harmonic balancer. (Vaseline or Lubriplate works well for that.) Install the thick washer and use the crankshaft bolt to draw the balancer onto the crank ... BY HAND with a johnson bar, NOT with an impact. Watch carefully as the balancer begins to slide onto the crank to make sure that it's going on straight. If it isn't ... a smack with the hammer and 2x4 will likely straighten it out. Don't be a "gorilla" ... Never try to force it on by exerting too much force on the johnson bar ... or you risk pulling the threads off of the crank bolt. when it gets about 1/3 (?) way on, (you'll feel it) you should be able to put away the hammer and wooden block ... and just continue to draw it completelely on using the bolt. Torque to specs when you feel that it's on all the way. |
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This motor was a complete steal i bought it from a guy 20 minutes from my house its a completely stock SBC 350 out of a 78 chev half ton with 98000 original miles doesn't smoke doesn't use oil, also got the turbo 350 from it and also got a 700r4 out of an 87 caprice and a bunch of small block assorted parts i paid 300 bucks for the WHOLE lot!!!!! took it home cleaned it up painted the block through an aluminum intake on it and added some chrome for shine and slapped it into my slammed 72 gm project. it will be a great highway hauler this summer!! flat black slammed 72 GMC rollin on 20" its what every 20 year old needs to build!!!
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