1932 ford truck question ?

I have a original rebuilt 1932 ford 2.5 truck its running and driving with the flathead v-8. I decided to up grade it from the 6 volt pos.ground to a 12 volt neg. ground all the bulbs were changed and a aftermarket 10 fuse panel was added under the dash. The generator was swapped out for a new 12 volt alternator built in a generator housing. The main wiring was changed.
Starting at the 12 volt battery,the neg post is connected to the truck frame. The pos post cable goes to the left side of the original starter button on the floor. There is a # 8 wire going from that post to the new fuse box. And another one going to the generator/alternator. The right side post of the starter button is only one wire and it goes to the side pos post on the starter.
The there is a nother wire going from the end of the starter to the frame as a ground. The cab frontend and bed are grounded to the frame with battery cable. Most everything comes off the fuse panel. The orginal switch on top of the steering column has 2 wires ,one going to the fuse panel and the other going to a 12 volt to 6 volt voltage reducer,then to the orginal 6 volt coil and to the distributor. With all that said. Here is my problem, nothing has power. the battery is hot. and NEW ) No power at the fuse panel, If I take my test light and ground it to the frame then to the pos post it does not light up. But if I connect it from the frame to the neg battery post, it lights up bright. What gives? Its not pose to be hot or light up my test light.
Sorry for the long write up ! Anyone with any ideas,or questions ?
THANKS !
Can the problem be in the original type floor starter button ?


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I don't think the starter switch is the problem.

That would indicate that there is a problem with the connection between the frame and the neg battery post. The test light lights-up when you connect it between the frame and the neg battery post because it was completing a ground circuit from some device in the truck that must have been turned on.

Take a good look at your negative battery cable and it's connection to the frame.

Hope this helps....

I would also add a heavy ground strap from engine to the frame.

My guess is, I don't know how your starter is set up but ...... that bare braided wire coming out of the starter motor to the lug on the bendix (soleniod looking thing) is not a ground.... it's the hot feed from the bendix to the starter motor...... if you hooked the neg cable to that, disconnect it and use one of the starter bolts..... see if the problem disapears

Just musing here, but would the starter button on the floor need to be grounded to operate? My thoughts are that it is only routing current, not actually powering up itself, so no need for a ground. The ground would be supplied at the starter itself in my mind's eye. Or am I missing something?

It would seem that the ground from the battery to just the frame is not sufficient. I would add ground cables to the engine and the sheet metal- firewall or fender well, etc. and see if that helped.

Thanks for your replys guys ! I will try to answer them. Keep them coming.

Joe G The neg battery post cable is connected to the new battery and to
a unpainted surface part of the frame.

Ford Junkie The engine has 2 new battery cables connecting it to a
unpainted part of the frame. One on the belhousing bolt
and another on the front of the engine.

Fod Guy Old flatheads V-8 do not have a bendix on the starter or anywere'
like a later model ford or chevy. It has only a starter button
located on the floor between the brake and clutch pedals. With
2 post for the battery cables. Pressing it sends power to the
starter.

Colbalt327 The only ground going to my started button on the floor is
were my starter button connects or mounts to the cab floor
It has 2 post and no ground is connected to them.
Thanks again guys !

OK this is just a shot in the dark..............

Take a known good set of jumper cables and use 1 side to go from battery neg. to the engine block ground mounting on the frame. You may very well have a bad ground cable from battery to frame (even new one's are bad sometimes).

Check the wiring diagram attached below. You can also go to Van Pelt to see other wiring diagrams.

I am thinking that the wires you have going to the foot operated starter switch are reversed or the wires coming from the foot operated starter switch to the fuse panel and the alternator are on the wrong side of the starter switch. This would cause them to be 'HOT' only when the starter switch is depressed. The wire to the fuse panel must be connected to the same post on the starter switch as the POSITIVE battery cable. The wire from the alternator should also be connected to that same post. The cable from the other post of the starter switch will be connected to the starter motor.

One other item to look at is how you have the coil wires connected. With the original POSITIVE ground system the 'hot' wire coming from the ignition switch would be attached to the NEGATIVE terminal. Since you switched to a NEGATIVE ground system the wire from the ignition switch should now be connected to the POSITIVE terminal on the coil (thru the resistor). The coil will work either way, BUT, the voltage produced will be much less when connected incorrectly.

Attached Thumbnails

 

With the test light clip connected to the positive battery terminal;

Touch the neg battery post - test light lights-up
Touch the frame (what the neg battery cable is attached to) - test light does NOT light up.

Is that what you are finding?

Ford Junkie With a good set of H.D. jumper cables. One side connected to
the frame the other end to the engine block. Same thing !


Frisco The diagram you sent me is for a pos ground setup like original.
mines neg ground so it would be a little different, As for my floor
starter button. All the wires are connected to one side of one post
and its on the left side. The only thing connected to the other post
is the wire going to the starter. Also my hot coil wire is connected
to a 12-to-6 volt reducer then to the pos post on my coil.Not to
the neg side.

Joe G With the test light connected to the pos post on my battery.
Touch the neg post it does light up.
Touch the same to the frame nothing. No light
Connect the test light to my neg battery post. And touch the frame
it lights up.
THANKS !

Unless I'm missing something here, this is pointing to a bad ground from the battery to what it's connected to (frame, right?)- either the cable, the terminals, insulated attachment point(s), etc. are preventing the negative battery terminal from entering into the electrical system.

Yes the diagram is for the stock POSITIVE ground wiring.

The only difference when going to a NEGATIVE ground system would be that the battery terminals will be reversed from the diagram and the coil would be wired so that the 'HOT' wire from the ignition would be connected to the positive terminal on the coil.

When converting to a 12 volt system from the original 6 volts the wiring remains the same as to size and connections, all bulbs need to be swapped out to 12 volt equivalents, a resistor (not a voltage drop) needs to be installed between the ignition switch and the coil. If you still have a 6 volt radio and/or a 6 volt heater motor they will need a voltage drop installed in the hot line going to them. The 6 volt starter can be used as is.

Try reversing the wires/cables that you have connected to the foot starter switch.

Too late for me to edit my post so I will try to clarify this.

From the POSITIVE battery terminal you should have a cable going to one post of the foot starter switch. Attached to that same post you should have the 'HOT' wire that is connected to your input terminal of the fuse holder. The single wire from the alternator should also be connected to the post where the battery cable is connected.

The cable from the NEGATIVE post on your battery should be connected to the engine block. Additional ground connections should be made from the engine block to the frame/firewall.

Your source for power for the ignition, lights, accessories, etc. will all come from the fuse holder. They should come either through a fuse or a direct 'hot' source. The ignition should come from a direct hot source and not be fused.

When connecting your test light to the post of the foot starter switch that has the battery cable connected to it and the other end of your test light to a good ground or the NEGATIVE battery post the light should be on.

When connecting your test light to the input terminal of the fuse holder and the other end of your test light to a good ground or the NEGATIVE battery post the light should be on.

When connecting your test light to the output terminal of any fuse and the other end of your test light to a good ground or the NEGATIVE battery post the light should be on if the fuse is not blown.

On a negative ground system if you connect the wire/clamp of the test light to the frame and touch the negative terminal with the probe and the light lights up then you have a bad connection in the ground cable somewhere.