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  #31  
Old 01-03-2012, 10:16 AM
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matts37chev matts37chev is offline
I don't understand?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
Matt, I just looked at your project journal photos. Have you got any newer photos lurking anywhere ?

no, because I haven't done anything on the car worth keeping track of since the last entry

I'm getting very close to starting on it again, I've been working on everything but my car and have had some motivational issues

also my garage was a disaster, and I couldn't find my tools or the car, but I got that mess all cleaned up now

I hope to have something worth posting in next few days


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  #32  
Old 01-03-2012, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigEd36
If your tank has no other lines than the fuel feed (no carbon canister lines etc) and it is in fact vented when the cap is removed (could the flap where you put the nozzle in be plugged) the pressure has to be coming from the pump. That is the only way your pump to carb feed line could get that much pressure in it.

I'm going to throw something out there that is wayyyy outta left field, and you guys can feel free to roll your eyes and say "Ed's lost it"........but............the stock mechanical fuel pumps have a vent hole in the case, and I see Al's fuel pump has been painted. Could paint have closed the vent hole, and if so, would it, or could it, somehow build enough pressure in the pump pushing on the diaphragm to make the output pressure that high? I really don't think it could make that much difference but we all know that "weird things happen" (just look at DV's problem with an unused blocked line). OK, I'm 6'3" plus, and over 290 lbs so I got broad shoulders, feel free to "pile on". I really feel like Al's fuel pump has gone bad but if this were possible drilling the paint out of the vent hole would be a cheap/easy fix.

Ed

The hole in the fuel pump case is not a vent per say. It just vents teh back of the diaphragm.
If the vent to the tank was plugged it would have the opposite effect, low pressure on the gauge as it would not be able to draw fuel from the tank which could actually cause a vacuum in the tank. I have seen this before and have seen partially collapsed tanks due to this.
I would be willing to bet that the little regulator valve in the pump is stuck or the spring failed.
Mechanical fuel pumps are pretty simple.
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  #33  
Old 01-03-2012, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bucket23
The hole in the fuel pump case is not a vent per say. It just vents teh back of the diaphragm.
If the vent to the tank was plugged it would have the opposite effect, low pressure on the gauge as it would not be able to draw fuel from the tank which could actually cause a vacuum in the tank. I have seen this before and have seen partially collapsed tanks due to this.
I would be willing to bet that the little regulator valve in the pump is stuck or the spring failed.
Mechanical fuel pumps are pretty simple.


That's what I figured. OK Chet, permission to roll eyes!
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  #34  
Old 01-06-2012, 12:49 AM
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cobalt327 cobalt327 is offline
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High temp/heat soak can cause the fuel pressure to increase between the pump and carb. You might try isolating the fuel line from the engine heat, but the line doesn't look to be too close to the engine to begin with.
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  #35  
Old 01-07-2012, 08:02 AM
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New Fuel Pump Is Installed

Yesterday was beautiful here, 64 degrees. So I put about 50 miles on the T-bucket. The new fuel pump is installed. While I was at it, I replaced the neoprene/rubber fuel line inside the stainless braid. The 3/8" fuel hose that was inside the braid was thinwall, and a good quality 3/8" hose wouldn't fit, so I used 5/16" which worked fine. Even though the fuel inlet needle and seat have less than 5,000 miles on them, they don't always seat. Every once in a while I can watch the fuel pressure bleed down to zero after I shut off the engine. I was very careful when installing the new fuel hose to make sure that it does not contact the engine anywhere. It has at least a 1/2" clearance to anything.
The fuel pressure with the new pump pulsates from 5.25 to 7 psi.. So far so good, no flooding idling. And the times that the fuel inlet needle seals, there is no hot start problems. Here's a few photos of the new install, and a running fuel pressure (just over 7 psi), and an engine shutoff fuel pressure (5.25 psi) when the needle held. It could be that the old fuel pump running 14 psi damaged the viton seat in the needle. Thoughts ? Big Al
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  #36  
Old 01-07-2012, 08:12 AM
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matts37chev matts37chev is offline
I don't understand?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
Yesterday was beautiful here, 64 degrees. So I put about 50 miles on the T-bucket.

Thoughts ? Big Al

Thoughts?

I got a thought for you mister!!!!!










































Thats one good looking engine compartment!
Glad you got it worked out
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  #37  
Old 01-07-2012, 03:32 PM
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cobalt327 cobalt327 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
Yesterday was beautiful here, 64 degrees. So I put about 50 miles on the T-bucket. The new fuel pump is installed. While I was at it, I replaced the neoprene/rubber fuel line inside the stainless braid. The 3/8" fuel hose that was inside the braid was thinwall, and a good quality 3/8" hose wouldn't fit, so I used 5/16" which worked fine. Even though the fuel inlet needle and seat have less than 5,000 miles on them, they don't always seat. Every once in a while I can watch the fuel pressure bleed down to zero after I shut off the engine. I was very careful when installing the new fuel hose to make sure that it does not contact the engine anywhere. It has at least a 1/2" clearance to anything.
The fuel pressure with the new pump pulsates from 5.25 to 7 psi.. So far so good, no flooding idling. And the times that the fuel inlet needle seals, there is no hot start problems. Here's a few photos of the new install, and a running fuel pressure (just over 7 psi), and an engine shutoff fuel pressure (5.25 psi) when the needle held. It could be that the old fuel pump running 14 psi damaged the viton seat in the needle. Thoughts ? Big Al
Big, have you closely inspected the needle and especially down inside the seat for any roughness/burrs/defects that could cause the needle to hang in the seat? Is the inlet hole at the bottom free of any burrs or defects that might allow fuel leakage past it? This takes good light and (for me, anyways) magnification to really see.

Does the float fit the "D"-clip (that acts as the pivot for the float) tightly?

There were several different D-clips used. Does yours fit the entire slot that's provided for it, or is there excess room (something like 0.150"-0.200") at the end that will allow it to move laterally?

Does the curved top of the D-clip extend above the plane of the carb body w/the gasket in place so the boss cast inside the air horn compresses the D-clip slightly to hold the clip in position so it can't move or rock?

Is the float straight and level w/the D-clip in place (not crooked because the float arms were bent a little?

All these things are to be sure the float is in no way binding.

If all else fails, you know that tiny spring clip that snaps onto the needle and hangs onto the float cross bar? If you are using it, take it off. If you're NOT using it, put it on. I know that sounds stupid- but I've had problems that were solved both ways.

BTW, there's virtually no way having the fuel pressure high should have damaged the needle. I'm sure Ruggles would replace the needle and seat if there's a problem w/it.

Good luck.
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  #38  
Old 01-08-2012, 07:30 AM
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adantessr adantessr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Big, have you closely inspected the needle and especially down inside the seat for any roughness/burrs/defects that could cause the needle to hang in the seat? Is the inlet hole at the bottom free of any burrs or defects that might allow fuel leakage past it? This takes good light and (for me, anyways) magnification to really see.

Does the float fit the "D"-clip (that acts as the pivot for the float) tightly?

There were several different D-clips used. Does yours fit the entire slot that's provided for it, or is there excess room (something like 0.150"-0.200") at the end that will allow it to move laterally?

Does the curved top of the D-clip extend above the plane of the carb body w/the gasket in place so the boss cast inside the air horn compresses the D-clip slightly to hold the clip in position so it can't move or rock?

Is the float straight and level w/the D-clip in place (not crooked because the float arms were bent a little?

All these things are to be sure the float is in no way binding.

If all else fails, you know that tiny spring clip that snaps onto the needle and hangs onto the float cross bar? If you are using it, take it off. If you're NOT using it, put it on. I know that sounds stupid- but I've had problems that were solved both ways.

BTW, there's virtually no way having the fuel pressure high should have damaged the needle. I'm sure Ruggles would replace the needle and seat if there's a problem w/it.

Good luck.

Thanks for the suggestions Mark. I will pop the top on the carb. and check it all out with magnifying glass tomorrow. Supposed to be high 50's a couple of days this week, so I should be able to get out and ride some . BTW FWIW ... I went into the garage yesterday afternoon just to look, and the fuel pressure was on zero. IMHO The fuel pressure should have still been at the 5.25 psi that it had when I shut it off Friday. Big Al

Last edited by adantessr : 01-08-2012 at 07:35 AM.
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  #39  
Old 01-08-2012, 09:37 AM
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T-bucket23 T-bucket23 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
Thanks for the suggestions Mark. I will pop the top on the carb. and check it all out with magnifying glass tomorrow. Supposed to be high 50's a couple of days this week, so I should be able to get out and ride some . BTW FWIW ... I went into the garage yesterday afternoon just to look, and the fuel pressure was on zero. IMHO The fuel pressure should have still been at the 5.25 psi that it had when I shut it off Friday. Big Al


Don't assume it is leaking into the carb, it could be slowly leaking back past the pump. S long as it isnt leaking into the carb it is not really a concern
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  #40  
Old 01-08-2012, 09:58 AM
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Agreed, Personally have never come across a fuel system that will hold pressure from mechanical pump to carb for more than a couple hours with engine off, not saying it cant happen but nothing to worry about.
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  #41  
Old 01-08-2012, 07:10 PM
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adantessr adantessr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Custom10
Agreed, Personally have never come across a fuel system that will hold pressure from mechanical pump to carb for more than a couple hours with engine off, not saying it cant happen but nothing to worry about.


Don't assume it is leaking into the carb, it could be slowly leaking back past the pump. S long as it isnt leaking into the carb it is not really a concern. [/QUOTE]

Thanks guys. Keeping that in mind. I will just give it a chance to prove itself, and see what happens before I tear into anything.
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