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Old 11-21-2007, 05:20 AM
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Silver hard to paint?

I am trying to pick a color.

I have narrowed it down to Moss Green, Silver or Burgandy.

I am a little worried about painting with mettalic but I was wondering if Silver is harder to paint than other colors?

I have only painted silver out of a rattle can and it has never come out right.
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Old 11-21-2007, 05:48 AM
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My first paint job was Cortez Silver...didn't know any better . When I first started laying it on I was moving far too much material and had tiger stripes real bad. The trick with silver is to apply it lightly so the metallic particles do not have a chance to settle or lay down. It helps also to keep the contents of your cup agitated. IMO it is no harder to spray than any other color, just requires a different technique.

Vince
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Old 11-21-2007, 07:15 AM
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My 1st paintjob was also silver and its still going on. I did just the hood so far and I did get some tiger-stripe type stuff but only in a couple spots. I think you can do it though. Have you seen the paintucation video on paint your car at home?? Just do the 1st two coats like normal, then the third you 'back-off' a couple inches and maybe move just a scosh (sp??) faster so the metallic lays correctly.

You never know till you try, so go for it!!

P.S. Kirker Platinum Silver is cheap @ $38.50 plus shipping/ gallon for a trial run and it is a Urethane (Single-Stage)... plus it can be cleared...
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Old 11-21-2007, 07:54 AM
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kirker "quick silver base" coat:



The silver is pretty easy to spray... I'm currently getting it ready for a respray of silver plus chianti candy coat. The candy coat get ALOT of runs in it but it does look nice. I gotta be more patient and stop turning up the material!

Chianti candy at 3 coats on one of my doors out of curiosity:

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Old 11-21-2007, 09:17 AM
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Kirker Platinum Silver is the exact color I was planning!

Any chance you have a picture of you car in that color????
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Old 11-21-2007, 10:50 AM
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not very good ones. It is a nice color though... Can't tell at all the paint is cheap...

I believe if I'm more careful on the last coat, the tiger thing can be avoided. We shall see...
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Old 11-21-2007, 07:25 PM
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You want a GREAT silver,than QUIT going CHEAP.
The top end of PPG,Dupont,HOK,SPI cost for a reason,
Their practically idiot proof. No Offense intended, BUT,
If you want a great silver out of the gun,PAY THE PRICE for GOOD base and be DONE with it.
Intercoat is the "key" to good metallics and the cheap bases don't have it,thats the reason why you have such trouble with striping or mottling.No "flow" and nothing to "help" out. Drop coating is a "cheap" fix for cheap bases. Also causes delam later on. Dry base don't stick worth ship. "If" you plan on drop coating,aka,backing off,you BEST use a SLOW reducer for the base to bite in or you asking for trouble.
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Old 11-21-2007, 07:55 PM
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thanks for the tips. Any future painting I do will use a higher-end product like DuPont. I just am painting a cheap Corolla for my daughter for practice and chose Kirker... Next car I'll go with something like Nason FulBase...
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Old 11-21-2007, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
PAY THE PRICE for GOOD base and be DONE with it.
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I just am painting a cheap Corolla for my daughter for practice and chose Kirker... Next car I'll go with something like Nason FulBase...
That would qualify as a cheap base as well. Last two I've done have been silver, not much problems with the metallic, although some silvers and other metallics can be a bit tough. A good gun and a decent base help. Throw in poor metallic control and poor coverage, and a cheap gun without a good fan pattern and atomization, and things are going to be tougher on you. I remember the struggles I had, fairly new to painting, conventional gun, cheap base. Just finding the right gun for me helped a lot and cut down on the amount of drop coating, even with the cheaper bases.
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Old 11-22-2007, 06:03 AM
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If you are planning on shooting BC/CC, then don't waste your money buying SS to practice. It would be like trying to learn to drive a car on a tricycle.

As for harder colors to shoot, it's not the color, it's the additives, like metalics. There are many shades of silver, and just as many different formulas of metalics to make the spraying difficult.

Aaron
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Old 11-22-2007, 07:18 AM
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I got it okay, no cheap paint. I hope I can still buy SPI even though it's inexpensive. That is the epoxy, 2k primer, and clear I'm planning on. Nason Fulbase is not good enough?? Then maybe DuPont Chromabase.
The gun I used was an Iwata W400. I imagine it's 'good enough' because the clear layed like glass, but I realize a Single-Stage as a basecoat isn't the same as a clear.
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Old 11-22-2007, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
but I realize a Single-Stage as a basecoat isn't the same as a clear.
Oh but it is exactly. SPI ss IS Universal clear with the proper additives for color.
The w400 is a good gun but basically conventional and you're on the right road.
Big problem with ss metallics is the repair factor cause what you spray is what you get,no color sanding & buffing, You can however clear over the ss and cut & buff it for a better finish.
I totally agree with you using the cheap stuff for "practice" but it kind of let's you down cause you can't spray it well and get to beating yourself up cause it does not look nice. I "learned" with Nason and Omni bc/cc and once I learned the fine art of mixing reducers for a better flash/finish had good results. I won't even consider doing a ss metallic period. I just won't subject myself to the torture.Solid colors are another story. I actually LIKE ss,especially for black, cause I can color sand it and have a super nice finish with a good clear on top.
The Chromabase sprays SO much better and in reality,is not "that" much more in price once you figure in the grief factor.
Nason is a converted enamel base,watch it dry after you spray it,Look familiar? I still to this day can't spray a silver Nason and have it not stripe somewhere. Going 1:1 or 1:1.5 seems to help instead of the 2:1 and light on the fluid. Drop coating is a necessity with it and it "might" just turn out.
One other thing. Doing kandy work,Your BASE has to look right cause the kandy will just magnify any stripping or mottling. So if the base ain't right,your just wasting more money on the kandy.
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Old 11-22-2007, 09:13 AM
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The problem with spraying SS for practice is that it will spray similar to clear, not base. If you are questioning spraying the silver base, practicing with spraying "clear" won't help that at all. If you want to practice, go to the paint jobber and buy some mismatched of the same brand and use that. If you are going to shoot Nason base, get some Nason base to practice with.

I have painted several cars with NAson base and not had any problems with it. I just make sure that I get good coverage before going on to the clear.

Aaron
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Old 11-22-2007, 09:15 AM
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If you go with the darker red choice you'll have easier time and a better chance of repairing it if there are problems down the line.
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Old 11-22-2007, 01:03 PM
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Okay, when I get the 'nicer' car (my daily), I'll try the better paint. PPG is about $500/ gallon so I'm not going for that. How do you guys rate House of Kolor ? I know they use it on a lot of showcars... I'll price out my original color in Chromabase to see what it runs...
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