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Old 05-31-2011, 10:53 AM
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A Simple Brush Paint Job - Newbie Help

Hi Hotrodders - Sorry my ride is not a hot rod, but this seems to be the place where people know cars.

I have a 94 Accord that is basic transportation and it lives outdoors in the sun. It is metallic black.

Over the years the factory paint has mostly disappeared from the roof and the side facing the the sun. The roof is the worst.

I am thinking of starting to paint the roof a basic gloss black. I don't want to use Rustoleum. I like the price but understand it won't last at all outdoors. I'd like the newly painted roof to last a few years.

I am thinking of foam brushing or foam roller. I considered buying a cheap HVLP spay gun (I have an old 1.5HP Craftsman compressor that might work) but I don't really like the additional safety risk involved with spraying, since this is just a basic transportation car and I think I can do fairly well with a brush or roller. It will look better for sure than it does now. With a brush/roller, I figure I can get away with just a respirator (I have a good one) rather than the full-face respirator and full-body suit that would be otherwise required.

I have looked at a lot of brands of paint online. Kirker Ultra-Glo, Restoration Shop from TCP, Trinity 1945, etc. I am looking at an Acrylic Urethane.

My questions:

1) Since most auto paint seems to be mixed to spray, will an Acrylic Urethane auto paint be too thin to brush or roll on. Affordable paint recommendations to use with a brush or roller are welcome.

2) I need hardener / activator (same thing, right) but not reducer/thinner. Is that correct. Most of these products appear to recommend a certain ratio of paint : hardener : reducer. Will it work OK if I just omit the reducer.

3) What primer product to use over the sanded down factory paint. I won't sand it down to bare metal, just smooth it out in the rough areas and provide some tooth in the few shiny areas left. There are plenty of spots with what I assume is primer showing (it's light gray, not rusty).

Thanks guys!

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Old 05-31-2011, 11:19 AM
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Automotive paint is formulated to flash quick for production work in an auto body shop..for this use an industrial enamel that will flow..the technique is called rolling and tipping..roll on the material and then brush it..the brushes are spendy as you need a high quality bristle brush for this in several sizes. Pre WWII a lot of high dollar cars were brushed rather than sprayed..You may need to reduce your paint about 5% to get it to flow out nicely..

Sam
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Old 05-31-2011, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
..for this use an industrial enamel that will flow..
Thank for the fast reply, Sam. Any particular brand and line of Industrial Enamel that might work well and be affordable? Quart sizes, and easy to get more of same in the future would be a plus.

I think I read somewhere that Enamels are not as durable and / or UV resistant as the newer Urethane type.

I suppose you are saying that a person with a brush or roller can't get a coat of auto Urethane on before it is dry, thus resulting in a mess.

Ben
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Old 05-31-2011, 05:54 PM
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I would use the paint from an impliment dealership. If you want blue, go to new holland, red, go to Case/ International, green or yellow, go to JD, New Holland will most likely sell a gloss black as that is there secondary color.
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Old 05-31-2011, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
The technique is called rolling and tipping..roll on the material and then brush it..the brushes are spendy as you need a high quality bristle brush for this in several sizes. Pre WWII a lot of high dollar cars were brushed rather than sprayed..You may need to reduce your paint about 5% to get it to flow out nicely..

Sam
I believe it's also referred to as "Coach Painting" The Brits utilized this method extensively in the early 20th century.
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Old 05-31-2011, 07:37 PM
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Still a popular technique with the wooden boat crowd I believe.
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:00 PM
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When I was a kid in the early 60's, I worked in an automotive store where the main line was Quaker State motor oil, but they also had a line of DuPont paint. I got to mix all the colors as they were ordered by the local shops and can remember fondly the deep, smooth finish that Dulux alkyd resin enamel would produce. Now, I read that they don't even manufacture it any longer. You could put it on with a brush and it took so long to dry that the paint would flow out and give you a beautiful finish. And there were no hazardous chemicals involved. Just Dulux and a brush. I really miss those days.
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:33 PM
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Sikkens SuperGloss yacht paint looks to be somewhat the same product as the Dulux was back in the day....
http://www.sikkensyachtpaint.com/eng...sp?page=&id=64
Brushable and has UV protection. Available in 16 colors. I suppose you could mix your own color.
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:41 PM
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A friend of mine in Alaska rolled his Camaro with paint he bought from Lowes, and it came out amazing for what it was. Search YouTube for roller car paint or something similar. I'm not saying I'd ever do it, but for what you seem to be willing to accept, try it.
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:43 PM
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brushed paint.

My mom had a friend whose husband painted his 49 chevy (50 years ago) with a brush. IT LOOKED GOOD. He said he painted it in the shade so the metal wouldn't get too hot to allow flow out. and he used a good fine bristle paint brush. My brother used to work in the Ford tractor parts dist center and he gave me a lot of damaged cans of tractor paint. , Red blue, gray, yellow and a terible mustard color. we painted tractors trailers equipment etc and my son painted a VW van. he used the gray for a first coat then a $ 10 gallon of mis match color from a local auto body-paint supply shop in town. My son was taking an auto body-paint class at the college and a local body shop got a fire department warning for having too much left over paint that was not stored in fire proof cabinets. The students got a lot of paint to use free.
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben_Tech

I am thinking of foam brushing or foam roller. I considered buying a cheap HVLP spay gun (I have an old 1.5HP Craftsman compressor that might work) but I don't really like the additional safety risk involved with spraying, since this is just a basic transportation car and I think I can do fairly well with a brush or roller. It will look better for sure than it does now. With a brush/roller, I figure I can get away with just a respirator (I have a good one) rather than the full-face respirator and full-body suit that would be otherwise required.
Full-face respirators and body suits are necessary for the pro's doing this for hours every day, but every home hobbyist in America only uses a good 3M half face respirator, just like the one you have and it's ok. You're only spraying a roof. A Tyvek white suit can be attained relatively inexpensively at Lowe's, Home Depot, your auto parts store, etc.

When I was taking a college course to learn painting we only used half face respirators and a white suit.
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Old 06-02-2011, 11:14 AM
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Maybe Rustoleum Isn't so Bad

Well, I was in Lowes yesterday and thought I might as well pick up whatever the best they had in stock might be. It seems that the Rustoleum "Professional High Performance Protective Enamel" is the best they offer. I bought a quart of gloss black and also a quart of the "Professional High Performance Clean Metal Primer."

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=130

and

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=158

respectively.

Reading online, aside from the usual, "gosh, Rustoleum can't be anything like a true auto paint" from the pros, there are a few guys really satisfied with it, like this guy who painted some metal diamond plate tread and toolboxes with it, says, "For painting bumpers, sliders, skids, etc., Iíve used everything from high quality DuPont auto paints to rattle can RustOleum. Iíve settled on Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance Protective Enamel in flat black; the durability, finish and color retention were the best PERIOD."

Quote from:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...nd-plate/page2

And, "It is called "Rustoleum Professional High Performance Protective Enamel". Forget about the term "enamel". It's just paint. The best paint. Period. I'm sure there's some technical reason or chemical make-up that seperates an enamel from regular paint, but frankly, I just don't care. All I know is that this suff is awesome, is inexpensive, and I'll use it every chance I get."

from http://www.cornholegameplayers.com/f...php?f=1&t=2442

These seem like pretty good testimonials to me. The only thing that I worry about is it being a waste of my effort if the primer starts coming through again in a year or so. I'd like the roof to last longer than that (4 years maybe.). Again, the car is outdoors 24/7 and summer sun is harsh.

It's not too late to return the Rustoleum product and get something else if it really is a bad choice for an older 'driver.'

For example, West Marine has a product called INTERLUX Brightside One-Part Polyurethane Paint with Teflon that is more expensive than the Rustoleum professional. The reviews on their website indicate it is a very good paint. Just a thought, based on the recommendation above for yacht paint.

Thanks again for the responses.
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Old 06-02-2011, 11:52 AM
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rustoleum is pretty cool, and it gloss's up super easy. But also it is alky'd enamel and it has no UV inhibitors..

As far as good marine enamel, I have rolled and brushed a lot of Passonno marine enamel. It flows good and is easy to work with. But it is a local company, I do not know if it is available outside of NY

http://www.passonnopaints.com/
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Old 06-02-2011, 02:03 PM
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Why not just get some cheap automotive paint and an inexpensive HVLP? It's only a little over $100 for single stage color, activator and reducer. HVLP gun from is $40. Borrow an air compressor from someone and shoot it in the garage with the door wide open, under a car port, or outside. Use a 3M half mask, $25. It'll last longer than the rustoleum.

Here is what I used. Choose a color.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU


Paint gun I used.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TTN-19000/


See my album, top right.

You also might want to look into Dupli-Colors Paint Shop line of paint. $20 a quart. If the car isn't too big, you could probably get away with using two quarts.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:34 PM
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Being as how the OP isn't too particular, what would happen besides a huge mess, by using an airless sprayer like those $80 Wagners? Are there any tip sizes compatible w/automotive paint?
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