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Old 12-15-2010, 02:34 AM
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A simple Mustang II question.

In all of the reading I have done looking for an answer, I still cant find a definate answer. I know for sure you weld the long spacer and gusset on the rear of the crossmember for the lower control arms, but what about the shorter inner spacer? Does this need to be welded in also or should it move freely in there? Thanks.

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Old 12-15-2010, 09:17 AM
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I strongly suggest you call the manufacturer and ask him. There have been so many different variations on the original design, (and some are backyard designs that can be dangerous if not assembled properly), that it is important you follow the specific manufacturer's directions to get it right. Unfortunately some manufacturers instructions aren't all that good and they assume the customer has knowledge that many may not have.

I've done more than one of these installations and I NEVER use a strut rod elimination kit. Ford's engineers spent millions designing the Mustang II front suspension and they used strut rods for a reason. Eliminating them puts greater stress on the lower "A" arm mounting area of the crossmember and failure of the crossmember in this location has been known to occur when strut rods are eliminated and proper reinforcement is not used. (Do a search on this site to see a LONG discussion on this.) So.. I suggest you check with the guys who designed that particular unit for the best answer.

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Old 12-15-2010, 09:38 AM
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Must II strut

I've seen ths strut bracket welded to 40's , early 50's chevies bottom frame box piece. The factory Mustang used a lot heavier gage metal in that area. I would add at least a 10 gage reinforcement plate from the M II kit crosmember to at least 6 in past the strut bracket. Early chevies used what we at Ford called a tin can frame, It's hard to find out how much internal rust you have in the box section of something that old. . Ok for the original 100 Hp back in their day.
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Old 12-15-2010, 09:51 AM
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Are you using stock OEM Mustang components, I hope not

Vince
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Old 12-15-2010, 01:18 PM
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Im using the Heidts Mustang II kit. It has lower A-arms and no struts. I believe thats why they include the gussets for reinforcement. I plan on reinforcing it more wherever possible. The instructions are unclear at this point. For the lower a-arm mount it has a long spacer and a short spacer. It says to put the short spacer inside the crossmember and the longer one on the rear with the gusset sitting horizontal and weld the gusset and spacer to the crossmember. Doesnt really say anything more about the inside spacer. I will try giving heidts a call see what they say.
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Old 12-15-2010, 02:02 PM
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I looked this up on their web site..http://www.heidts.com/_uploaded_files/in-002.pdf

Here's a fuller picture.http://www.heidts.com/_uploaded_files/in-023.pdf.


Go down the page on the right mid way, they have a picture.. I think this is what your talking about.. You have to weld the small sleeve inside the crossmember.. then weld the other one to the back side..(using the bolt to line it all up).. Myself I would machine a sleeve to go from where the sleeve hit's the inside the front crossmember, Drill the back hole out to let the sleeve go all the way through the back side of the crossmember.. Weld it in place, then add your gusset at the back side.. Never understood why they made that in to pieces.. One solid sleeve would be much stronger then two pieces..Just my way of thinking..

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Old 12-15-2010, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j_johnson
Im using the Heidts Mustang II kit. It has lower A-arms and no struts.

If your using the ''FULL'' bottom a-arm, You don't have to use the struts.. If you have the stock bottom mustang arm.. You ''have'' to have a strut rod..

This a-arm has to have a strut rod..
http://www.heidts.com/_uploaded_files/in-022.pdf

Last edited by NEW INTERIORS; 12-15-2010 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 12-15-2010, 03:29 PM
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I finished this year, my first MMII

I used Chassis Engineering basic, did not used the struts, I got a kit from Heidts, I have the disks for the front. I went with ECI for the 11.5" disks with 5-1/2" to use the stock wheels. The picture I sent shows the bolts go through the holes, you need to ream the holes throught the front member and back. The pipe should be flush on the front to the back side. On the rear left front to move the 1/4" for camber when driving to the curve of the road. The right from to parallel with the right side from frame forward to back. The 1/4" needed to cuts +1/4" slot on the top spring. The camber is just right, goes straight and steers great. I welded the bottom on the frame and used bolts to the top hat (springs). As you see the springs looked weird. I did not cut it, it has begining to settle. Use a safe compression to clear the "A" bottom and upper "A". I was afraid of it, while it is compressed, this is the time to rotate the springs to fit in the lower cradle with a stop tab. I used Rod Parts Warehouse, its' all Heidts. They give you alot of free stuff.
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Old 12-15-2010, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Footstomper
I used Chassis Engineering basic, did not used the struts, I got a kit from Heidts, I have the disks for the front. I went with ECI for the 11.5" disks with 5-1/2" to use the stock wheels. The picture I sent shows the bolts go through the holes, you need to ream the holes throught the front member and back. The pipe should be flush on the front to the back side. On the rear left front to move the 1/4" for camber when driving to the curve of the road. The right from to parallel with the right side from frame forward to back. The 1/4" needed to cuts +1/4" slot on the top spring. The camber is just right, goes straight and steers great. I welded the bottom on the frame and used bolts to the top hat (springs). As you see the springs looked weird. I did not cut it, it has begining to settle. Use a safe compression to clear the "A" bottom and upper "A". I was afraid of it, while it is compressed, this is the time to rotate the springs to fit in the lower cradle with a stop tab. I used Rod Parts Warehouse, its' all Heidts. They give you alot of free stuff.

I hate to say it.. But I think you have the wrong springs are something.. If your car is sitting on the ground in that picture,, Then something is wrong.. Your bottom a-arms should be level at right height.. Your springs look like they are trying to jump out of the car..

I know you don't have everything on the front end of the car,, And I know it will bring it down more,, Just look's a little high to me..
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Old 12-15-2010, 04:12 PM
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a full rad. and the rest should weigh a couple hundred pounds.
and dont those springs settle some at first?
i would run it a while before changing them.
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Old 12-15-2010, 04:25 PM
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Really, I am not an expert

I was shocked when I put those springs, the picture shown was about 6 months of driving. It is almost parallel now. I wanted to make the stock ford coupe, with the motor I wanted. The 500 required 375 lbs springs, the most stiff, they told it would settle as I drive. Several people told me to cut the springs, I would not do it. Once the 16" wheels as 16x6.50 cokers. I finally got the front cap, I would have been mad if it did not work. But they fit just as a stock ford outside. It worked as I wanted, I am not round track, but I would go drag if I want to. So far, I am afraid to push the throttle. I have several things to finish it.
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Old 12-15-2010, 05:33 PM
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my truck looked the same as the pic without the front sheetmetal on it
3 people standing on the front of the frame couldn't get it down.
with my truck all together it leveled out. (whew!)
fatman suggest riding for a while, if it doesn't level out, cut out 1/2 a coil and drive it
you can take a full coil out without changing to a lighter spring

jj: read your instructions. now. to many variations in the kits.
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Old 12-15-2010, 05:44 PM
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The team of MMII of building 10 years with newer front ends. I let them sort them out. Also, It is almost parallel now after 6 months. The picture was a year ago. I happy with them.
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:00 PM
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Old 12-15-2010, 11:55 PM
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OK I got an answer now. Both of the spacers should be welded in place. Thanks for all of the replies.
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