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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2010, 04:07 PM
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I'm just a consumer. I know some body shop owners. I was told if I wanted the clear to stay on there with a single stage to wait a few weeks after the paint was put on and scuff it up before I put the clear on. I might as well paint the car twice that way. I don't care if it looks different with clear on it. It's just a hobby car. A lot of body shops around here just use a single stage because they know what will happen and most of the cars getting paint jobs are not worth putting a exspensive paint job on. If I used AE on there it would not have lasted as long. I can repaint it now for less than $100. I could sand the paint and put on another top coat.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2010, 04:41 PM
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if its a solid color you want you really should go with a SS ..its way cheaper,easier and faster with less chances for something to wrong.
As far as the look goes I proved time and time again 90% of the people cant tell SS from BC/CC after a year no one can tell until you sand it SS has blk dust...Now SS metalics is a completly different story ,they look like dodo and no pro would use them on something with his name on it...
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2010, 04:49 PM
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I did another car with BC/CC but it was metalic. I have another one that might get a SS but I have not got that far yet.
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8&4spd
I'm just a consumer. I know some body shop owners. I was told if I wanted the clear to stay on there with a single stage to wait a few weeks after the paint was put on and scuff it up before I put the clear on. .
That's not what the tech sheets say.
I did what the owner of SPI (the clear I used) told me was best.
Spray the single stage and wait over night then clear it.
Kirker says the clear MUST be topped within 24 hrs of the color.
(not sanded).
I found it best to wait at least 3 hrs to keep it from mottleing the
metallics but overnight is sure safer.
I didn't sand before the clear, I didn't want to disturb the metallics.
Like I said. mine is almost 4 yrs old, driven daily and has held up better
than any basecoat/clearcoat I've done.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 11:12 AM
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i wait an hour or so then start clearing . go with the tech sheets if you want to do it right. i dont think i would seek any more advice from those shops.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 11:17 AM
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I don't know, I never used the clear on Kirker. The BC/CC I did was real BC/CC paint. They don't have a distrubutor for Kirker west of the Mississippi, it was mail order.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by shine
i wait an hour or so then start clearing . go with the tech sheets if you want to do it right. i dont think i would seek any more advice from those shops.
I hate to disagree with you but those body shops know what works in the desert. They have been around the block a few times.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 11:38 AM
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you wont get a better cross link than ss urethane to clear urethane . why do you think activator is added to base. desert , swamp makes no difference what product you use. just determines what speed activators and reducer you use. there is no reason to wait that long. now there are old poly enamel junk out there but i don't use such stuff.

there is a reason they have tech sheets for products.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 11:45 AM
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I didn't use the clear because I didn't need to. What exactly is the purpose of the clear on a single stage solid color? The BC/CC paint I used did not use a activator, it used a stabilizer. Kirker is a whole different system. The Kirker single stage uses a activator, so why would I put clear on top of that? It might benifit the paint salesman but it was doing nothing for me.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 11:58 AM
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most every professional painter i know adds some acc to the base . since the base is the weak link in the paint job. i only use base when doing certain colors, high metallic . anything else gets ss then clear except black which gets no clear. there's nothing special about kirker paint. it is not what i would call a high end stable resin. reminds me of the old polyurethane enamels of the 70's which plagued shops with problems.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 12:03 PM
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Like I said, I'm just a consumer using the paint for hobby cars. If those cars were parked inside then it might be a different story. I never said Kirker was high end, it served the purpose I needed.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8&4spd
I'm just a consumer. I know some body shop owners. I was told...
Would it be accurate to say you are not an expert, then? Why so quick to contradict those with LOTS of experience?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 12:25 PM
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to the original poster. use a quality single stage for black but dont clear it. it will look deeper without clear. for protection and durability i would clear it.

crash, your wasting fingers on this one.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashtech
Would it be accurate to say you are not an expert, then? Why so quick to contradict those with LOTS of experience?
Why so quick to contradict me? You have no idea what experience I have. I don't see anybody else posting pictures. Don't tell me, show me I might learn something. Any painting experience I taught myself. It could be right, wrong or indifferent. I know how to use a sanding block and how to put the paint on and what happens when a car is parked outside in the desert.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 12:52 PM
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I guess I wandered onto the wrong BB. The title says Hotrodders.com.
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