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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2013, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blwilliams View Post
Also I'm a real big on cutting/grinding eye brow reliefs in the top of each cylinder to unshroud the intake and exhaust valve. The eye brow is worth an easy 20 HP, and its free if you do it your self. the eye brows will also lower your CR a bit.
It seems that I remember reading many years ago that a valve likes a minimum of 0.200" (two hundred thousandths of an inch) radial clearance to operate correctly (to pass a well-formed kernel of mixture and side-step turbulence).

Here's a tutorial from the wiki that I started and several of us have worked on over the years, instructing proper install and break-in of flat tappet camshafts........
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2013, 07:46 AM
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C.r.

Just wanted to mention that the compression ratios I listed for those pistons came right out of my handy piston catalog. They list the compression height at 1.645" , deck clearance at .025", and compressed gasket thickness at .0385". I did not run it on a calculator. Nolan
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:49 AM
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Bl,
I am running the Glenwoods and going out thru the transom, where water will be introduced back in to muffle the sound somewhat and have that nice " steam" look on a cold morning
Reversion is somewhat of a concern but with my small cam and motor being quite a few inches above exhaust trumpets, I think I am in the clear... May make a flapper inside the exhaust in case of a emergency shutdown or big wake coming from the back....
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Old 12-18-2013, 10:41 AM
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Flappers

I consider flappers a must have, even though my risers are real high on the engine. I've had the engine stall on deceleration and flood the engine before. Water does not compress, lucky it did not damage the engine. I originally had built in metal flappers on my exhaust tips, but the clanging at idle drove me nuts. I took them out and went with the rubber external ones. My exhaust is underwater at idle speeds, but above water at cruise. Nolan
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Old 12-18-2013, 10:57 AM
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OLNOLAN,
I like the set up you have. What hull is that??
My motor is exposed and it is part of the coolness of having a "drag boat" style of boat. The transom exhaust is stock for this boat and want to keep it for noise and originality. Rubber flappers on the outside kill the look I'm going for. My exhaust is always above water line ( approx. 4-6 inches.). My logs are even with the exhaust ports on motor so lower than yours.. Motor placement has not been set yet due to building motor, but I am thinking of fabricating my own turndowns out of stainless that bolt to the logs with a angle piece that water is introduced and forced down and can be a "dam" so to speak for any water coming back up... I am still searching for ideas and examples I can incorporate..
I do not want to go with snails either as they are bulky and may not have room for them due to placement of motor ( need room for seating ) and my velvet drive.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2013, 01:35 PM
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Techinspector.. this may be off subject but you have me interested. When you say .2" radial clearance on valves, could this be hindered by milling a head down too much, causing the valve seat to be close to the deck of the head (more importantly the intake valve due to its larger diameter)?
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2013, 06:24 PM
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20 ft. Eliminator Sport Cruiser

This thread is worthless without photos.Give em up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Malibusurfer View Post
OLNOLAN,
I like the set up you have. What hull is that??
My motor is exposed and it is part of the coolness of having a "drag boat" style of boat. The transom exhaust is stock for this boat and want to keep it for noise and originality. Rubber flappers on the outside kill the look I'm going for. My exhaust is always above water line ( approx. 4-6 inches.). My logs are even with the exhaust ports on motor so lower than yours.. Motor placement has not been set yet due to building motor, but I am thinking of fabricating my own turndowns out of stainless that bolt to the logs with a angle piece that water is introduced and forced down and can be a "dam" so to speak for any water coming back up... I am still searching for ideas and examples I can incorporate..
I do not want to go with snails either as they are bulky and may not have room for them due to placement of motor ( need room for seating ) and my velvet drive.
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:33 PM
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. Hull is a 65' Mandella SK skier.
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:36 PM
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2nd shot ( can't seem to attach more than one ).
I just painted it and the trailer. This is kinda a restoration project. Have to make seat bases ( molds ) as well. First pic is prior to painting and fixing the glass on the rear cap piece. I am a painter, not a engine builder, as my questions reflect
Boat still needs a cut and buff, but you get the idea...
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2013, 06:59 PM
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suh-weet

Looks good, trailer is fine too. I don't have a lot of good digital shots of mine. Most were on film or phone camera shots.

Okay driveline and interior looks super, keep the pics coming. Engine build shots. Nolan
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2013, 08:13 PM
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Pics

Pics, phone photos
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:17 PM
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A couple more

Photos more photos
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2013, 08:24 PM
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All i can find right now

I'll someday scan the film photos of the rebuild.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2013, 08:44 PM
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Good looking boat. I wish more of the old school Hotboats came in 20fters.. More room and more stable. They are few and far between and expensive even as a project boat. Bet yours can handle about any wake.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2013, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyChevyDeluxe View Post
Techinspector.. this may be off subject but you have me interested. When you say .2" radial clearance on valves, could this be hindered by milling a head down too much, causing the valve seat to be close to the deck of the head (more importantly the intake valve due to its larger diameter)?
Ideally, you want ~0.200" radial clearance between the edge of the valve and the chamber or top of the cylinder. If cutting the head for more SCR would shroud the edge of the valve up against the side of the chamber or against the cylinder wall, then yes, you would want to relieve that close proximity so you can form a fully circumferential kernel of mixture as the flow goes past the valve. If any area on the valve is too close to another surface, then the kernel is disrupted and the result is turbulence. We have only micro-seconds to fill the cylinder before the intake valve closes, so we need all the help we can get.

Now, don't shoot the messenger. That's the way I understand it and I am open to correction from anyone who understands it another way.
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