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Old 02-20-2006, 12:44 PM
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Slapper bar settings

I have a 1st gen S-10 with the Lakewood universal slapper bars on my leaf springs. I'm having a hard time getting my rear suspension to work with me at the track. Originally what I had done was I adjusted the traction bars with shims so that they were pre-loaded and already up against the leaf spring when the truck was on the ground. To me this seemed like the best way to keep wheel hop under control and from happening. And that seemed to be fine but now that I'm trying to hook and get weight transfer and suspension geometry to work with me I think it's causing problems. It makes the rear suspension REALLY stiff and I think it's causing it to actually hurt traction because of it. I see that a lot of other guys with leaf spring setups on cars (old camaros, etc) don't have their slapper bars pre-loaded at all and infact have a good inch or more between the rubber snubber and the spring.

So my question is, where should I set my trac bars? Should they have a lot of space between the snubber and the spring or should they be close or on it? Will one way or the other cause more wheel hop?

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Old 02-20-2006, 01:00 PM
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It sounds like everything is bound up. You should have some gap. Every car is different. You can gain a lot of traction by playing around with the front suspension. 90-10 shocks, remove sway bar, taller weeker springs.
Bob
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Old 02-20-2006, 01:16 PM
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First you should have the type of slapper bar that replaces the spring pad. Those that just clamp on the spring in front of and behind the axle are limited in value.

1) The bumper MUST hit directly under the spring eye bolt. Most every Camaro, Nova, etc. that you see, the bumper hits back 6 inches under the spring which defeats some of the usefulness of the bar, and permanently bends the spring. Consider lengthening your square bar.

2) I recommend urethane bumpers and urethane leaf spring eye bushings. Half of the tire shake comes from the rubber eye bushing. Rubber is too flexible under hard launches.

3) generally 1/2 to 1 inch is correct except for fine tuning. Bumpers can be hacksawed off to adjust clearance. You might end up with 1 inch on the drivers side and 1/2 on the passenger side (or more) to get a level launch.

4) You might discover that your truck will run quicker with 100 pounds of ballast at the tailgate. It is a toss up of accelerating the additional weight or spinning the tires. (I know a big block ElCamino with 200 pounds of concrete inside the tailgate)

5) If your rear end sits high, consider making the truck sit level by lowering the rear by dropped shackles or removing a leaf.

6) You might have to use different rear shocks and work on your front suspension for launch tuning when/if you finally get it to hook.
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