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Old 01-09-2012, 08:02 PM
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Sleeve in 355

I have a 355 that a piston shattered in and wrist pin hit the cylinder wall and scratched it up pretty bad so I was wonder if a sleeve would be reliable the parts are Afr 190s xfi280 air gap intake

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Old 01-09-2012, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prettyboyced
I have a 355 that a piston shattered in and wrist pin hit the cylinder wall and scratched it up pretty bad so I was wonder if a sleeve would be reliable the parts are Afr 190s xfi280 air gap intake
Most engine shops have bare blocks for sale pretty reasonable. I would be more tempted to go that way. I know a shop that I did business with 40 years ago used to sleeve blocks with a damaged bore. Still, I'd get a different block.
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:08 AM
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i had a 400 that i sleeved years ago, everyone told that a sleeve wouldnt be a good idea. and they were right. the righteous and spectacular engine failure was almost worth the money i wasted.
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:17 AM
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Sleeves

Did you know that alot of NASCAR teams use sleeves in their engines.And their dam thin at that. FYI
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:35 AM
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A sleeve is not a bad way to go. Just be sure you use a guy that knows what he's doing and not some bolt together duff.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:38 AM
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A properly installed sleeve is a good fix on most blocks and can save you if you are re-using the stuff from the other 7 cylinders. As was mentioned, 350 blocks are pretty common and if you're buying new stuff it might be worth the investment. I've sleeved bbc drag race blocks that had LOTS of machinework done to them I didn't want to have to redo, with success, but most sleeves I do now are on blocks that are getting pretty rare and will not see the hardships of racing.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:48 AM
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While I don't have a problem with putting in a sleeve, you might check out getting another block and just have it bored. I mean, compare the price of each and see which is cheaper. You shouldn't have any probs with the sleeve as long as the shop has a good reputation. Ask the local circle track guys.
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TroyBoy
While I don't have a problem with putting in a sleeve, you might check out getting another block and just have it bored. I mean, compare the price of each and see which is cheaper. You shouldn't have any probs with the sleeve as long as the shop has a good reputation. Ask the local circle track guys.
Yes. It depends on your budget and amount of work already in the block. The replacement sleeve is usually made of better material than the block. Only real problems are with 400 sbc. Thin original cyl walls and flexible block.. Distortion of the adjacent cylinders.
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:07 AM
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I've run my own blocks with 8 sleeves in them many times, however I surely would not recommend this unless you are willing to accept the risk. . I would not see any problem with a correctly installed sleeve. If the wall is cracked then there is the possibility of water leaks. Usually the block will be bored with a step in the bottom of the bore. The sleeve is then installed and bottomed out with a lock tite sealer on the step. The top is machined flush with the block then bored to size and honed with a block plate.

Cost will be the driver I think. I haven't done one in quite a while so I don't have a good feel for cost. You can buy a new block for about $700 +/- ready to go.

You could possibly go up to .060 over on just one hole. Make sure you can buy just one piston.
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prettyboyced
I have a 355 that a piston shattered in and wrist pin hit the cylinder wall and scratched it up pretty bad so I was wonder if a sleeve would be reliable the parts are Afr 190s xfi280 air gap intake
There should not be any issues with sleeving the block. The biggest thing is cost with machining and sleeve give or take a couple hundred bucks a bore, for one cylinder this is acceptable, but when get to a few, you might as well replace the block unless its something exotic and expensive.

Some discount for multiple sleeves on the same bank as the deck has to be milled for 1 or all so a set up cost can be divided by the cylinders being sleeved.

Bogie
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:22 AM
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I used a 2-sleeved 350 when I pushed my '88 IROC-Z to a best of 10.21 in the 1/4 mile. No regrets. That block is still in use, now serving as a mild farm-truck engine being far over-worked.
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:39 PM
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Its just I'm low on funds I spent all my money buying the heads and everything else getting a sleeve is just the cheapest route
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:35 PM
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Do you feel something like this would be a suitable candidate for sleeving?







i would intend this engine to be a low-budget transportation motor OR a mild racing motor----maybe up to 300-450max hp. It is/was a crate 350; i suspect the previous owner overheated it, thus somehow causing water to leak into cyl#4 and thus hydrolocking it etc.

i understand (sort of) the economics of simply "finding another block," BUT the "new" block would still have to be honed at the very least?----i took all the pistons/rods etc. out and would intend to re-use them. Not to mention the cost of the "new" block---maybe only $75 but still.

i think the adjacent cylinders, if going the sleeve route, would have to be checked and possibly re-bored but it seems to be a wash when you consider the time savings of already having this block?
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by against all odds
Do you feel something like this would be a suitable candidate for sleeving?


i would intend this engine to be a low-budget transportation motor OR a mild racing motor----maybe up to 300-450max hp. It is/was a crate 350; i suspect the previous owner overheated it, thus somehow causing water to leak into cyl#4 and thus hydrolocking it etc.

i understand (sort of) the economics of simply "finding another block," BUT the "new" block would still have to be honed at the very least?----i took all the pistons/rods etc. out and would intend to re-use them. Not to mention the cost of the "new" block---maybe only $75 but still.

i think the adjacent cylinders, if going the sleeve route, would have to be checked and possibly re-bored but it seems to be a wash when you consider the time savings of already having this block?

Question to be asked on the overheat comment as to whether this is a gouge or a crack? One would consider that a gouge too deep to clean with a standard overbore but would clean with the overbore sufficient to install a sleeve would be OK in service.

The problem of leaving a part of a gouge, or certainly a crack behind, is that there is aways the risk that the remains of said gouge will propagate a crack and that any cracks left behind stand the chance of growing into the deck or case structure. One has to remember that the sleeve is designed to contain the forces upon and of the piston's movement. The distortion caused by heating and cooling cycles and of the torque and operational loads from the head bolts and those of the mains are now being worked into the old remaining bore wall material, not being supported much, if at all, by the thickness of the sleeve wall. This last observation is why we get nervous about sleeves.

Bogie
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:10 AM
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I think at this point you should take the motor apart down to the bare block and wash it up. It sure looks like a crack on both sides as well as maybe 2 cracks on one side...like a piece may fall out.

At best this is going to be touch and go. The top and bottom of the bock need to be in good shape with no evidence of the cracks as this will be the sealing area. The top and bottom of the bores are solid so the crack should not propagate into this except for the water hole in the head surface. If it is pointed at one of these I think the block is done fore. If it were mine and $$$ were tight I'd salvage it knowing that it was on borrowed time. I'd recommend not taking the chance on a customer block however.

Wash it up and let's look again.
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