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Old 03-28-2013, 05:00 AM
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slick sand

anyone use this its not a cure all but wanted to know what u guys think of this before i bought some

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Old 03-28-2013, 06:00 AM
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Well Wayneooo, I've used it, it's, if I'm correct, a resin based primer (I say resin based because it uses a liquid hardner the same as you would use in fiberglass resin). It has average sanding qualities, fills OKay and comes in Dark Gray/Black, which I like (I like dark primers for blocking to see highs and low's and in Canada it's becoming difficult to get dark primers). So, all that being said, it works alright. One thing I'm not a big fan of when using slick sand is the pot life. It sets up fast and if you use just a touch to much hardner it will set up extremely fast...depending on temperature, you may not be able to get a pot full of primer out of the gun before it's starting to cure.However,

I'm waiting for my can to be used up and I don't know what I'm going to use it for. Since using SPI Dark Gray Epoxy, I'm afraid that my can of Slick Sand may sit on the self for a long time. SPI Epoxy is priced about the same, probably a bit better, sands much better, comes in dark gray and gives me excellent rust protection.

So to answer your question, does it work? Yes...if you where to add another question such as, or are there better alternatives for the price? Well I think I answered that question as well.

Hope this helps Wayneooo.

Ray
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:10 AM
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never felt the need to use Slick sand as it's "overkill" in my opinion in terms of build, but I have used feather fill, which is the little brother of Slicksnot but not as thick. I think the featherfill works great and sands decent enough so I'm assuming Slick sand is the same. Poly primers are great at taking waves out of the panels. They don't call them "body man in a can" for no reason.
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:07 PM
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I don't even know how you can compare Slick Sand and SPI epoxy...two different things with two different purposes!

If you aren't a master at skim coating body filler because it's not what you do day in and day out, Slick Sand is a life saver. I started using it for the first time last summer and as someone who's just a hobbyist making the best effort they can, it's expensive but great and has helped me to get my panels super straight. We'll truly judge that assessment once the clear goes on...

I put it on over SPI epoxy. A lot of tips and pointers I've figured out, I state them all in my blog entry on it so I'll just link you rather than stating it all again.

I will say I've never had a problem with it setting up too fast. The hardener you add has graduations so you can add the right volume. I mix up and spray half a quart at a time. Have multiple panels prepared. When you add the hardener, start the timer. You've got 30 minutes to get it out of the gun to be safe. Mix it quickly once the hardener is added, pour into the gun...I found no need to strain mine. I'm shooting with a 2.5 mm tip. Spray your first coat, give it 15 minutes to flash, spray your second coat if you have enough, and make sure this empties the cup. Immediately add lacquer thinner or acetone to your cup and spray it out. At this point if I need to spray additional coats I'll make up another half quart. Also, spray it in the evening or wait until a cooler part of the day so you don't have to fight it kicking faster with high heat.

1967 Mustang Restoration: Slick Sand: Sprayable polyester surfacer/primer

Last edited by Lizer; 03-28-2013 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 03-29-2013, 05:09 AM
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i sprayed some yesterday ill sand it out today i like it so far
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
I don't even know how you can compare Slick Sand and SPI epoxy...two different things with two different purposes!

If you aren't a master at skim coating body filler because it's not what you do day in and day out, Slick Sand is a life saver. I started using it for the first time last summer and as someone who's just a hobbyist making the best effort they can, it's expensive but great and has helped me to get my panels super straight. We'll truly judge that assessment once the clear goes on...

I put it on over SPI epoxy. A lot of tips and pointers I've figured out, I state them all in my blog entry on it so I'll just link you rather than stating it all again.

I will say I've never had a problem with it setting up too fast. The hardener you add has graduations so you can add the right volume. I mix up and spray half a quart at a time. Have multiple panels prepared. When you add the hardener, start the timer. You've got 30 minutes to get it out of the gun to be safe. Mix it quickly once the hardener is added, pour into the gun...I found no need to strain mine. I'm shooting with a 2.5 mm tip. Spray your first coat, give it 15 minutes to flash, spray your second coat if you have enough, and make sure this empties the cup. Immediately add lacquer thinner or acetone to your cup and spray it out. At this point if I need to spray additional coats I'll make up another half quart. Also, spray it in the evening or wait until a cooler part of the day so you don't have to fight it kicking faster with high heat.

1967 Mustang Restoration: Slick Sand: Sprayable polyester surfacer/primer
I think SPI epoxy is a high build if I'm correct and is engineered for sanding. If I did my own cars in a little warehouse I would consider using ONLY a high build epoxy, or at least try it out. In a business atmosphere The poly prime is good. As far as kicking in the gun, you sometimes can't even mix more than 20 ounces without it getting dry on you and you don't want to ad too much acetone to make up for it. You want a nice clean texture or even peel.

As far as skim coating, it's the quickest way to show straight results if you have a boss that expects lazer straight in two prime apps. I'm always trying to tinker with things to make the boss happy and one way is to spot fill things. It makes the work harder and you'll need more primer than usual though, but it can be done as long as you have a heavy 3 coats of at least featherfill from the start. Skimming is more about learning how to spread good and using a good spreadable filler. I've only had head aches doing it when I couldn't spread it cleanly or was using crappy filler. just my 2 cents.
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:08 PM
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I have abused Slick sand in experiments like you can't believe, it is some amazing stuff. Can it fill? Let me put it this way, you could tape a quarter on the fender and BURY it with one application of Slick sand.

The only reason I don't like it is you will begin to not do finish work that you should be doing just because you know you don't need to.....and your work can suffer.

I see it as the perfect, absolutely perfect product for when you have a bunch of body lines and that sort of thing, a tail gate covered in filler around the stamped in letters, a firewall, inner fenders, those are perfect uses for it. You can sand the filler with much coarser paper roughing it out quickly without worrying about going down to finer papers and feather edging nice. You then apply a few coats of polyester primer and you have essentially applied a "skim coat" of polyester putty but without all the little ridges and crap from spreading it out around all those body lines and what not.

Like I said I have abused it, where I sanded the filler with brand new, sharp 36 grit paper and then applied it right over that. Later sanding that from 120-180-220-320-400-600 and applying a bc/cc right over it and literally years later not seeing any scratch swelling or anything. I had a Harley gas tank display that I used as a paint rep where I did this and painted a pearl paint job over it and proudly put it out for display at dealers shows and what not and it looked like a million bucks. The stuff is pretty neat that is for sure.

Brian
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
I don't even know how you can compare Slick Sand and SPI epoxy...two different things with two different purposes!

If you aren't a master at skim coating body filler because it's not what you do day in and day out, Slick Sand is a life saver. I started using it for the first time last summer and as someone who's just a hobbyist making the best effort they can, it's expensive but great and has helped me to get my panels super straight. We'll truly judge that assessment once the clear goes on...
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What would be the downside of using SPI epoxy for block sanding?
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:00 PM
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What would be the downside of using SPI epoxy for block sanding?
As Brian (Martinsr) eluded, If your body work is done correctly, there is no downside to using SPI Epoxy for block sanding.

Ray
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:26 PM
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The only downside is depending on how many coats you lay down it takes a bit longer to cure before blocking, as with the spray poly you can lay down 4-5 heavy coats and block it out the next day if not sooner. I personally do all heavy blocking with a good spray poly then top coat that with the SPI epoxy then do a final blocking after it is fully cured.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:38 PM
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About the only time I use slick sand or that type of product is on a semi hood with a lot of glass work or some thing that had a lot of real rough body work on it. Other wise Spi epoxy and a few coats of 2-k should work just fine. Only thing I dont like about slink sand is the smell both spraying and sanding.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:18 PM
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What would be the downside of using SPI epoxy for block sanding?
It doesn't build THAT well, their normal 2k builds a lot better and requires fewer coats of that than epoxy (so do the math there), and if you sand epoxy and get it too thin you will get rust coming back through it. I don't think it's practical advice to recommend epoxy as a building primer for us DIY and home hobbyist guys who can't get a car so straight that a few coats of epoxy will finish it out flawlessly. If you block down to less than the equivalent of two wet coats of epoxy you have greatly reduced your corrosion protection. I don't like to sand my epoxy at all anymore because every spring I have to go back and sand out rust spots or completely reshoot a panel.
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:32 AM
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poly primers are more porous and less durable and epoxy is the most dense of all primers. There's a lot more rust protection from Epoxy than poly primers but you're right, not advisable for someone that's not used to doing bodywork.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:50 AM
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Now I know this will generate some negative feedback but my one experience with Slick sand was not good. I've been custom painting cars since 1979. Recently a customer used Slick Sand on his project and I basecoated over it and did flames. As I was pulling the tape from the flames, the basecoat lifted from the Slick sand. We had to sand off every bit of basecoat, sand the primer again just to be sure, the customer had sanded but maybe he has not sanded it enough. So we used 400.
I'm almost done with the flames and there's still a few spots that paint is pulling up from the Slick Sand.
I know one thing, I'll never use that stuff in my shop. I'll stick with my PPG K36 when i need to fill, and PPG DP epoxy when I need to seal.
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:06 AM
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Did you seal before you put down your paint? I know they say you dont need to but I would in this case.
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