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Old 07-14-2007, 01:04 AM
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After going through 8 starters I learned a few things. The grind is caused by the starter moving. Go back to the stock starter and bolts and inspect them, you`ll see some things. The stock starter bolts will have a knurled section and will have a shoulder on top of the bolt, Now look at the starter, You`ll notice the starter has 2 shoulder grooves machined into the starters mounting pad, these grooves plus the bolts must be spotlessly clean. You have to make sure you are using the correct starter bolts and nothing else. Next is when you install the starter you must make sure the starter bolts shoulders fall squarely into the mounting grooves, then snug the starter down. Next, you torque it with a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench to 45 ft lbs. Now go back and inspect your work, look at where the bolt shoulders sit, right squarely in the grooves machined into the starter, these are there to assure the starter doesn`t move. There cannot be any kind of washer or anything else on the bolt. Studs are not going to fix the problem no matter what kind of starter you use, you must use the correct bolts for the starter and torque them properly, if you just install them and snug them down as soon as they get hot and loosen just slightly the starter will come out of line and start binding again and causing the horrible grinding noise. The number 8 starter on my car was what it took for me to learn this, and it`s a cheapy advance auto parts special, and it`s been on the car years now without issue. Around this time, I also added grounds which is always a good idea, I ran the new ground from the frame to the block, and another from the block to the battery, then used another ground off the battery to the fender using around 10 gauge wire, you also need to make sure it has a ground from the firewall to the intake. Set your starter up like this and I assure you, your problems will be over. Also no shims on the starter either.
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