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Old 04-26-2012, 07:32 AM
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Small block tunnel ram.

Hi all!

I am new to this forum but not to hotrods I am just starting my second project, a 1966 chevelle SB 4spd. This is not a numbers matching or origional 4 speed car so I can do pretty much what I want. The current 327 has the "double hump" heads and a mild cam but I don't know any specs on the motor other than that. The long term plan is a 496. I just traded a guy some parts for a Weiand Tunnel ram, 2 600's and a 454 4blt main block. The short term plan is to stick this tunnel ram on the 327 and play with it. I know it is not the best perfomance intake and that a 327 is pretty small but this is mainly for nostalgic hotrod looks when doing cruise night. I know I will need to add a gear and probably a bigger cam. I am wanting to do this as much on the cheap as possible since this motor will eventually be sold when the BB is read.

Does anyone have a similar combo or suggestions as to what I should look at doing. This is not a drag car. I just wanted to have fun and look cool!!!!

Thanks
Wade

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Old 04-26-2012, 09:33 AM
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Do yourself a favor and sell the tunnel ram. Building one engine when you want another is just throwing your money away. There is no market for a used sbc so you'll never get your money back from the engine build. BTDT. Decide what it is that you want and can afford and just get started on that and leave the 327 alone.
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:07 PM
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if you were to use the tunnel ram on the 327, sell the 600 carbs and run a pair of 390cfm vacume secondary carbs... but imo your better off with a focus build on the bbc 496!! then run you can run a tunnel ram on the bb..
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67-4-fun
if you were to use the tunnel ram on the 327, sell the 600 carbs and run a pair of 390cfm vacume secondary carbs... but imo your better off with a focus build on the bbc 496!! then run you can run a tunnel ram on the bb..

I know I know but I need to get this a running driving project and that is gonna take a lot more cash. The 327 ia already put together and in the car and paid for! I don't plan on tieing a lot of money up in this SB but the tunnel ram was essentially free so about the only thing I need to do is get a smaller set of carbs. The rest of the money needs to go into body and interior for now.

I just got my 4blt main 454 so now I am saving a little project money at a time towards the stroker kit....
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:06 AM
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hey thats cool.. i complety understand.. for the tunnel ram to work at most you will need two 390 cfm carbs, but the draw back is they not cheap.. i had a link but now i cant find it, but there was a company selling the two 390's tunnel ram setup already just bolt on and go, but the price tag was about $770.. like i said carbs arnt cheap, but the 390 is the only way to go to even remotely make the tunnel ram streetable..
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gamecock66
I know I know but I need to get this a running driving project and that is gonna take a lot more cash. The 327 ia already put together and in the car and paid for! I don't plan on tieing a lot of money up in this SB but the tunnel ram was essentially free so about the only thing I need to do is get a smaller set of carbs. The rest of the money needs to go into body and interior for now.

I just got my 4blt main 454 so now I am saving a little project money at a time towards the stroker kit....
The 600cfm carbs will work well enough. There is absolutely no need to swap to 390's. Anyone who works with tunnel rams will tell you that. The one disadvantage you have is the vac secondaries, the tunnel ram should have mech secondaries with 1:1 linkage but the vac secondaries can work. Power won't be optimal but it will be easy to dive as long as the carbs are tuned right.
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72
The 600cfm carbs will work well enough. There is absolutely no need to swap to 390's. Anyone who works with tunnel rams will tell you that. The one disadvantage you have is the vac secondaries, the tunnel ram should have mech secondaries with 1:1 linkage but the vac secondaries can work. Power won't be optimal but it will be easy to dive as long as the carbs are tuned right.

I am sure that these are going to need rebuilding. If I do try and run these are there any recommendations for size of: power valve, accelerator pump, throttle cam, jetting, squirters?

thanks
Wade
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:09 AM
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Are these holley or edelbrock? If its a near stock engine then id start with a near stock tune maybe a lower rating on the pv and a little more jet or less metering rod.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72
Are these holley or edelbrock? If its a near stock engine then id start with a near stock tune maybe a lower rating on the pv and a little more jet or less metering rod.

Holley's. I was really wanting to run edelbrocks but if I can make these work I will stick with them.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gamecock66
Holley's. I was really wanting to run edelbrocks but if I can make these work I will stick with them.
I run both, and they both work fine.

I would recomend using the lightest spring on your vac secondaries. Start with that before you do the rest of the tuning and you'll save a lot of headaches on a tunnel ram.
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Old 04-27-2012, 04:08 PM
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The 600's will work fine. You don;t need different carbs.

The key to running a T ram on the street is realizing that the tall runners and carb plenums take a longer time to warm up so the fuel vapourizes.
When you start it up give it a longer time to warm up before driving.
Allow time for some engine heat to travel up the runners and get the carbs warmed up a bit.

While warming it up, keep the engine idle speed up to avoid spark plug fouling
from non vapourized fuel. Liquid fuel will not burn.

Here is a cool cam for your tunnel rammed 327
Isky 270 Mega cam #201271
Isky 205D valve springs for max performance.

You can use what ever cam is in the motor now, if you want
but this isky will make good power on the street with the t ram.
without getting too crazy.

You will want to recurve the distributor for the cam and to aid drivability
and warm up with the tunnel ram
recuve it for 24deg base at idle and 34-36deg at max mechanical advance
occuring around 3000rpm. A short limited 10-12deg mech advance curve.

Then, set up the vacuum advance system so it adds 12 to 15deg of vacuum advance at high cruise. The rate of vac advance has to be found by drive testing.

600carb jetting; start with stock jetting. The engine must be fully warmed up before evaluating carb jetting. and before adjusting the idle mixture.
Again keep the idle speed up during engine warm up.
You want to get it well warmed up.

Get a wide band AFR meter to help you dial in the the carbs.
They may need larger accel shooters. The vac sec housings need to be twined
Holleys sells vac sec housing tops with a vac fittiing on top to allow joining the vac signals so they both open evenly.
The rate of vac sec opening will need to be dialed in.

Get some gears for your chevelle. I suggest 4.10's.

if you spend the time to dial in your t rammed 327 you probabily won;t want the Big block.
It will run very well once dialed in.
Functional manual cable chokes or auto chokes are a big help
for engine warm up.
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Old 04-27-2012, 04:47 PM
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What F-bird said, especially on the distributor curve. It will absolutely want 22-24 degrees initial timing to idle and that's with NO vacuum added. On a budget, keep the carbs stock, regulate the fuel pressure to 5 lbs, not the 7 drag racers use and either block open or eliminate the choke function. You also need to make a balance tube for the vacuum secondary diaphragms. Holly sells a cover with the tube in it but you can make your own with a drill, small tubing and JB Weld. You can get by without this if you don't pound it much. Remember, it's not a hot rod unless it has more than one carb!
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Old 04-27-2012, 05:02 PM
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I can't remember exactly, but there is a trick to the power valves when running dual carbs on a tunnel ram. I'm thinking that you halve the size as they share the same vacuum signal, that way they respond when you need them to. Hopefully somebody else can chime in on this, I could be dead wrong on this.

I hope it looks cool when you get it running good!
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Old 04-27-2012, 06:06 PM
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Sorry your wrong. The Manifold vacuum will be the same no matter how many carbs you use.
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:48 PM
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http://www.hotrhttp://www.hotrodders...id=65019&stc=1



My wifes 302, 2.02 power pack heads , chock cable & secondary vacuum equalizer tube pic. and linkage pic. IT might help you with your set up? Or give you some ideas! The face on the engine was a joke on my wife LOL ! But it back fired on me and she likes it Firebird & these guys have got you covered!!

Chris
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