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Old 08-14-2005, 12:21 AM
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smog, smog, smog....CA smog , failed.

I took a smog test last week and failed(no dyno due to size of tires). Motor is a 383 with headers, newer 4b quad, fresh tuneup and oil change, newer pcv. Made some carb adustments and FAILED again!

Since I only failed at idle, I'll just post these numbers:

1st test failed at idle:
HC: 742 (max is 300)
CO: 2.38(max is 3.00)

2nd Test failed at idle:
HC: 381 (max is 300)
CO:1.10 (max is 3.00)


Please through out some tips related to my readings. What can I do to bring down my HC's further?

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Old 08-14-2005, 12:34 AM
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CO, Failure is too much fuel not enough air.
HC,Anything that can cause a misfire.Lean condition,ignition,etc.
That second attempt was not far off.You might try to set the idle as high as possible without going out of the limits on the machine.
If you have cats,make sure they are good and hot.
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Old 08-14-2005, 09:08 AM
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you got to make it run like a piece of crap to pass. First back off all your rockers about 3/4 turn if it is a hydraulic. They should clak fairly loud. Make sure it ain't too much and DO NOT drive it hard in this state. This will reduce valve timing and overlap getting less unburnt fuel out the exhaust pipe. Next, retard the timing about 12-15 degrees. This will drop your idle a lot. crank the idle up to the max allowed, but dont get too close as it may speed up after sitting in line up and getting hot. Make sure the exhaust temp is hot prior to testing, but do not allow it to idle for any length of time in line, as this will load up the exhaust with HC's. shut off your engine after you move up in line. Your car will seem a mere shadow of what it's normal performance is, but it should be a little closer with this setup. I took a 351 in a truck from 1300 ppm HC at idle to 250 just by turning the dist.(ret) while it was hooked up to a sniffer.
ps- it would not hurt to disconnect the secondaries and step down your jet sizes a couple of numbers.
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Old 08-14-2005, 12:29 PM
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thanks for the responses. Here is what I got:

- retard timing 8-12 degrees
- increase idle to 850-900
- I may let off the rockers a bit

The tech told me that my CO is really low, get that up and my HC will come down also. So how do I get my CO up?

Also, I adjusted my air/fuel screws down before the second test, but did not adjust my idle or my timing after this adjustment. Was that part of the problem?
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Old 08-14-2005, 12:39 PM
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CO's come up as HC's go down.Take it into a garage and have them setup the idle for you. Not all shops will do it, but if you pay for an hour's shop time, they will set it up with the mixture screws and timing. May save you money in the end after going in blind for the 3rd or 4th time. Another alternative is to flange a couple of cats and bolt them in fo the test. Make a bypass pipe for after.
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Old 08-14-2005, 12:42 PM
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You are not that far off.I would try to raise the idle first and retest.You might try to richen it a little.Just don,t raise the idle past the limits.I can,t remember the limits of the machines.
Make sure it is good and hot.Like stated already don,t wait in line with the engine idling for long and then just pull up and test.What are your other readings?( not at idle,it used to be 2500RPM ?)
Ratlover types faster than me.
I agree if you can find a shop to help you,I would do that instead of going back again and again.
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Old 08-14-2005, 12:44 PM
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thanks ratlover, will do
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Old 08-14-2005, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redlightning
What are your other readings?( not at idle,it used to be 2500RPM ?)
Fast idle is 2500

1st test:
HC 107 (max 350)
CO 2.71(max 3.50)

2nd test:
HC 102(max 350)
CO 1.63(max 3.50)

No problems here. Probably runs cleaner than most old cars and trucks on the road!
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Old 08-14-2005, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratlover
CO's come up as HC's go down.Take it into a garage and have them setup the idle for you. Not all shops will do it, but if you pay for an hour's shop time, they will set it up with the mixture screws and timing. May save you money in the end after going in blind for the 3rd or 4th time. Another alternative is to flange a couple of cats and bolt them in fo the test. Make a bypass pipe for after.
Ratlover is on the mark.
playing with it with the pipe sniffer on it will let you make the right adjustments.
I used to put emissions pass in my cars with new plugs and wires at test time in N.J.
Ratlover, in first post is very correct.
Do not wait in line idling your vehicles
and Timing
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Old 08-14-2005, 12:58 PM
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Your 2500 reading do look good.I haven,t run a machine since I moved to TN in 1998,new car readings then were CO1.2 and HC 220.What kind of car is it?
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Old 08-14-2005, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redlightning
What kind of car is it?
its a 77 blazer, minimal emmisions requirements due to
heavy duty engine classification. Got headers, no cat's, 383 motor. I recently found this site and like the info here so I joined the board. I typically hang out on the truck sites under
same name.
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Old 08-14-2005, 02:49 PM
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I almost forgot,
make sure you have FRESH OIL in the pan. you would be amazed at what this can do to your readings. after time blow by can enrich your oil and readings through the pvc. I was skeptical, but it does contribute based on real world experience.
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Old 08-20-2005, 12:59 PM
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Here's what we just did in Houston TX in an 90s unrelated type vehicle with 57,000 miles/ done in one feel swoop.

Change the oil to 10W30 (non synthetic). Added one can of Restore. Fuel tank down to 6 gallons, added 4 (four) bottles of Wally's cheapo injector cleaner. Jumped on the highway and drove it 50 miles in 4th gear, giving it full throttle and letting it wind out several times. Filled it up with GOOD brand of gas..... drove it another 20 miles to get good gas mixed in and all the way up to engine........ restested and passed like a new one. K.I.S.S.
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