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Old 07-14-2003, 04:18 PM
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'70 Chevelle '70 C10
 
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Smooth firewall

I'm making my firewall smooth on my '70 Chevelle. I have already started. I took the heater off since it's going to be a summer car only.. I fit a piece of sheet metal arount the hole and tacked it with a mig now I'm making it all flat with fiberglass and gradually moving to regular filler. I blocked off the passenger side air vent it doesn't fuction a lot anyways. I've been filling in any little bumps and waves. Any pics or suggestions
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Old 07-14-2003, 06:02 PM
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Gearhead, Go to my picture album, there is one of my 66 chevelle
eng comp. and one of my 69 camaro.

HTH,
Troy,
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Old 07-14-2003, 09:54 PM
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Well here's what I have so far.. The passenger side was easy since it's big and flat I have to work around the drivers side it has all kind of dips mainly where stuff was mounted. I just got the basic shape I want on the passenger side and I just did the first coat of primer and I will sand it down and inspect my lines and start doing some spot puddying hopefully. I have been filling in holes and bumps and cutting off screws to make them flush. I can't wait to get it done! Hopefully I'll have it going in a couple years..
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Old 07-14-2003, 10:02 PM
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Another firewall pic
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Old 07-14-2003, 11:51 PM
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It`s looking good. slip a piece rubber hose over the bolts that hold the booster, saves skined knuckles. I brought my wiring and what ever came through up high, out under the fenders and down low past the bend back on the floor. On the camaro the wireing is inside and comes out at the starter. On the chevelle the front wiring is under the fender and from the fuse block across to the starter way down low at the top trans. bolts in a loom. lots of diff. ways to sanatize it.

The fire wall really looks good!

Good Luck

Troy,
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Old 07-15-2003, 05:10 PM
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Ditto! You are on the right track, and see why you wanted to relocate the master. Did you ever come across a kit like I was talking about?

Keep up the great work!!
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Old 07-15-2003, 08:15 PM
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In the pics the master cylinder is off just to make it easier to work around.. I am not re-locating it because it's would be to much work IMO mainly because I don't want to make new brake lines and I already have them for the stock location. Thanks for the comments
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Old 07-15-2003, 08:19 PM
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smmmoooth.
lookin' good man.
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Old 07-15-2003, 11:51 PM
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I used an alum. one of a 90s caravan, polished real nice, work goo
you can see it in my pic. album.

Troy,
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Old 07-17-2003, 01:19 AM
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I'm about to start on my 72 elCamino's firewall. What happened to your heater box opening? is it so warm where u live you never need to de-fog the windshield? Or are you putting a smaller unit inside? I'm just cleaning up mine with different shades of black on the firewall, heaterbox, fan and wipermotor. Not sure if anyone will see it tho cuz it will soon be a 4x4 fairly high up. I was thinking of covering the cowl with a stainless steel sheet I have but decided against it becuz of the restricted view on my unit but on your car it would look great. If you aren't happy with your end result, consider this option. I'm keeping the stainless steel for my 35 coupe's firewall.
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Old 07-17-2003, 01:30 AM
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I was considering smoothing firewall on my '57 wagon, after I install hydraulics in it, cause I dont want to make holes after I smoothed it already. Also anyone know where I could get this part ...I am not sure how its called but it mounts on roof and its like cap/sunvisor (originally was on 40's cars) and made out of steel.
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Old 07-17-2003, 02:36 AM
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I thought maybe just fiberglass holes without using/welding in metal plates from back side, to make it looks cleaner appearing from both sides. then sand fiberglass from both sides till its smooth, so you couldnt tell there was a hole at all. what you guys think?
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Old 07-17-2003, 11:52 AM
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No offense Mit, but are you really gonna juice your 57? Personally, I think you should look into some bags. Leave the juice for impallas and regals. And for the visor, I would think with all the sites on the web for tri-5's, one has to have something. Do a search in google and look around.
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Old 07-17-2003, 02:11 PM
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Here in IL we have hot summers and cold winter.. I took the heater unit off and mig welded a piece of sheet metal in the place of it. I don't need a heater since it will be a summer only car and I will never drive it in the rain, I'm going for a street/strip car and I will race it a lot. When you weld the steel over the heater hole just tack it every inch or so.. if you run a soild bead it will WARP. There was also a 6" round hole where the fan went so I did the same method of welding a steel plate over it. I used pretty thin steel I think it was like 16g. Then you have to grind down the welds and do your first coat of fiberglass filler, once you get the shape you can start with regular body filler and make it nice and smooth.. I then did a coat of primer and spot puddy and wet sanded with 320... myns near perfect now. I still don't know what I'm doing with the wiper motor hole because if I want to race it in the street class it has to have working wipers. My buddy did his '69 camaro firewall smooth and he took a wiper motor off the back window of a dodge Caravan and then filled the hole where the motor went and it works better than the stock one did with the caravan motor.

My car still has another couple years before it's "done" I want to to be really nice and never do it again. All of my Chassis work is basically finished, the frame has been narrowed with ladder bar setup and it has a narrowed GM 12 bolt with Eaton posi.. Disc brake front-end. I got some Weld Draglite wheels front and back and I'm running 33x19.5x15 MT sportsman tires and little 205/75's on the front.. All I need to do is body and engine work and I'm basically done accept for interior and I'm keeping it as stock as possible but I'm running a cage. Any suggestions on wheel tubs?? should I buy them or make them myself?
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Old 07-19-2003, 02:21 AM
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Wheel tubs

I would make the tubs myself because I work with metal all the time. The advantage to building them yourself is that if you measure correctly you can make them exactly right: correct arc, width and guage. Many of the aftermarket tubs are made from light material for weight considerations, but for safety it should be 18 guage steel minimum, I'ld prefer 16. If a tire shredded apart at high speed we wouldn't want a chunk going right through a thin tub and nailing us in the back or wreaking any havoc with the fuel cell/tank or lines. Also readymade tubs usually need much trimiming and additional fabrication is required to mount them anyway so savings are minimal, if at all. That's my opinion.
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