[chevymike]

Hi everyone. Let me start that I have been reading here and on other sites for the last year, all types of info regarding paint. My original plan (which I found all the info on this site BTW) was to spray Blitz Black on my truck. As I continued to read and learn I was starting to question that decision and thinking I should use a real auto paint. Now that I am actually stripping the old layers of paint off and seeing how much work it is, I am really swaying to the auto paint side of things. Because of this site and many great people, I am going to be putting epoxy primer on the bare metal (after prep) and doing the filler that is needed and spot prime those areas. I think that is the correct order of doing things.

Now here is where my confusion and pulling my hair out comes in. Because of this site and info posted, I have come to realize that paints with ISO's in them are very dangerous/deadly and honestly I don't want to do major health damage just to paint my truck. At the same time I can't afford to pay someone to paint the truck either. Since I have done everything else (full frame off build), I really would like to paint it myself. I can't afford to buy a full fresh air breathing system to paint one truck either. A high quality resporator (which I bought already) doesn't seem to be the correct answer from what I have read.

With that said, it seems the only paint I find that is reasonable to paint and not kill myself without a ton of added equipment is Lacquer but then I read how crappy it is and won't hold up, especially if parked outside a lot. From what I read most Urethane's and Enamels are ISO based anymore. This brings me to my question.

What paint do I use? Since TCP Global is local to me, it would be nice to be able to buy from them. At the same time their store front counter is very under staffed so trying to get this type of info is hard. I basically need to walk in with the idea of what I want. I can so understand now why people spray a vehicle with epoxy primer and it never makes it any further. I need some solid advice for a DYI'er that is not going to end up killing him.

The other thing, in case it matters, I will be painting the truck piece by piece versus being fully assembled. I am currently working on the cab/doors and then will progress to front fenders and hood. Last will be the bed panels. I have to do it this way due to space issues. Also, not looking for a show car finish but something that would look factory quality. Trying to avoid looking like a spray bomb paint job.

If anyone is interested in pics of my project and progress, they can be found here, http://gallery.lisaandmike.org/68truck

Thanks in advance.

[milo]

Black is a good idea if doing it piece by piece...

If you learn the Envirobase system now you'll be way ahead of the curve and will be helping folks here too ..

Use the PPG NCP 280 primer and be done with it..

You won't be able to die from it though, i tried for years and still alive..


clicky --> http://www.ppg.com/location/korea/en...rformance.aspx

[swvalcon]

paint your truck with a good quality urethane single stage or a base clear which ever your choice. Yes they both have iso. In them but use a fan of some kind to clear as many fumes as possible and use a good 3-m respirator recommended for paint fumes. Any two component paint has some health hazards with it but wear a paint suit and cover as much bare skin as possible and still be able to paint. I like to take a good shower as soon as possible after painting to wash paint from my hair and skin. I painted tons of cars back in the day in my 20s and 30s with little or no respirator and I'am now 60 and still kicking. Iso many not be good for you but your not going to keel over painting one truck.

[waterdude]

Originally Posted by chevymike

Hi everyone. Let me start that I have been reading here and on other sites for the last year, all types of info regarding paint. My original plan (which I found all the info on this site BTW) was to spray Blitz Black on my truck. As I continued to read and learn I was starting to question that decision and thinking I should use a real auto paint.

it seems the only paint I find that is reasonable to paint and not kill myself without a ton of added equipment is Lacquer but then I read how crappy it is and won't hold up, especially if parked outside a lot. I need some solid advice for a DYI'er that is not going to end up killing him.

If you are doing parts at different times, black would be a good color to start, and if you are on a tight budget and dont want to die from the spraying fumes, I would dare to say, Why not try the Rustoleum roll on paint... it wont kill you

[shine]

who wants a hotrod that looks like a piece of lawn furniture..........

[waterdude]

Originally Posted by shine

who wants a hotrod that looks like a piece of lawn furniture..........

Why would painting anything other than ISO Urethane make that car or truck a piece of lawn furniture?... the guy its on a budget and dont want to Die because he does not have a full body suit and mask to paint his car...So why not Use good old Rustoleum... with a roller

[chevymike]

So far, 1 for enamal, 1 for waterborne, 1 for Rustoleum...

So basically I am still at square one. As for ISO exposure, everyone is different. Some can almost drink it and never have a problem, others it take very little and can cause some major health issues. I have read a few different stories of people having the later. Remember, there are a lot worst things then dying from exposure. Being in my 40's now, there are a lot of things I won't do now that I did in my 20's. With age comes wisdom... now I only wish it came with money too...

Keep the ideas/suggestions coming...

[waterdude]

Originally Posted by chevymike

As for ISO exposure, everyone is different. Some can almost drink it and never have a problem, others it take very little and can cause some major health issues. ...

They will ALL die....

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Originally Posted by chevymike

So far, 1 for enamal, 1 for waterborne, 1 for Rustoleum...

So basically I am still at square one. As for ISO exposure, everyone is different. Some can almost drink it and never have a problem, others it take very little and can cause some major health issues. I have read a few different stories of people having the later. Remember, there are a lot worst things then dying from exposure. Being in my 40's now, there are a lot of things I won't do now that I did in my 20's. With age comes wisdom... now I only wish it came with money too...

Keep the ideas/suggestions coming...

Mike, I too am sensitive to paint fumes but still enjoy the car hobby.
AutoAir Colors makes a good safe waterborne basecoat, but the big
problem is finding a clearcoat that's also iso free.

Lately I've been experimenting with AutoAir waterbase basecoat, covered
with an industrial or marine waterbase clearcoat. Most of the industrial
clears I've tested are not suitable for automotive use, but the marine
clears look promising. In fact waterbase clears have been used for years
in the marine industry to coat boat decks, and they hold up very well.

Just a possibility...

[OneMoreTime]

I do not believe that a fellow who paints one or two cars a year in a well ventilated area with a decent respirator needs to worry all that much..the guys who need to be worried are the ones cooped up in a paint booth 40 hours a week for years and years while doing this stuff as a profession.

Sa

[chevymike]

Well I still haven't found the answer yet and get info to use about every product, here is something I am curious about.

On TCP Global's site they have their Restorations Shop brand Lacquer. From everything I have read, lacquer seems fairly easy to shoot but lack durability if kept outside. Reading the tech sheet on TCP's site, they offer a High Performance Acrylic Lacquer Sunscreening Clear that is suppose to add long term durability and wet look appearance.

Here is the link to the tech sheet, http://www.tcpglobal.com/restoration...chsheet_al.pdf


Has anyone used this product or any comments about it? Might be a good alternative to ISO based products, ease of applying and getting some durability out of it.

In addition to the paint type debate I am researching, I still haven't decided on what color I want. I have been trying to decide for more than 2 years and every time I think I know what I want, I see a truck and am like "oh I like that color". Man this is frustrating. Any thoughts on a first time painter color? One thing, the project is called Hot Rod Hauler so I want the color to convay "Hot Rod" when seen. I am not a fan of red or black, yet they scream hot rod. Of those two, black would be likely. I have been thinking yellow or orange but blue, purple and green comes up.

Any colors I should really stay away from, especially with the piece painting I will be doing?

Thanks again,
Mike

[boatbob2]

Hi All,LACQUER paint was used FOR YEARS,by the big three,very easy to paint,and will last for YEARS,my 48 ford coupe was painted in LACQUER about 15 years ago,still looks good (garaged at nite)and i can repaint a fender (and rub it out) in less than 4 hours.try that with almost any other kind of paint,

[roger1]

OV (carbon) cartridge respirators do filter isocyanates. Hardeners in 2K paint systems are what contain isocyanates.

The 3 most common isocyanates found in 2K hardeners are:
HEXAMETHYLENE DIISOCYANATE
ISOPHRONE DIISOCYANATE
DIPHENYLMETHANE DIISOCYANATE

Here is a link to the 3M Respirator Selection Guide that I have downloaded:

http://pages.suddenlink.net/lt1/3mRespGuide.pdf

As you can see, 3M's recommended cartridge for these isocyanates is OV/N95. (Organic Vapor with particulate pre-filter)
However it states either "Warning Unknown" or "Poor Warning". What they are saying here is, when the cartridge is saturated you can't tell by smell because isocyanates have no odor.

Due to the danger of the isocyanates and the poor warning combination, a supplied air respirator is the only recommended procedure.

The fact is that painting 2K urethane paints with a OV respirator can be done and it is done all the time. I have done it before but still intend to get a supplied air system before my next paint job with 2K paints.

If you are going to use the OV cartridge while shooting 2K paints, I would use new cartridges at least everyday and make sure your mask fits tightly. Also make sure you get the best ventilation possible in your garage or spraybooth to keep the concentrations as low as possible. Store your cartridges in a ziplock bag when not in use. Time out of the bag counts as in-use time.