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Old 09-01-2009, 07:31 AM
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cobalt327 cobalt327 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TorkMonster400
are there any issues with changing the pump and pan?
Be sure to get a driver's side dip stick pan and the right pick up for the oil pump and pan you decide on.

The front oil pan to timing chain cover seal has to be the correct one, also. '75 and later have the thick seal, '74-back uses the thin seal, as shown:
2 1/4" = thin (early 1955-74) seal,
2 3/8" = thick (later 1975-85) seal.

Measure from the mounting flange where the pan bolts to the block down to the deepest part of the seal "tunnel".

Re-sealing the pan can be a chore if you are doing it in the truck, and reusing the old gaskets and seals. If you decide to replace the gaskets and seals w/new, I'd suggest you use a 1-piece oil pan gasket from FelPro. Prolly one of these two:
PN1880 1975-79 thick front seal LH dipstick; side rails trimmed for strokers, or
PN1885 1957-74 thin front seal LH dipstick.

They come notched to clear stroker cranks, include plastic pieces that hold things in position while you cinch things up. It is a much better gasket from a sealing and installation stand point (especially if doing it under the vehicle), IMO.

Do not over tighten the pan, despite the type of gasket/seals used- that's the quickest way to get leaks.

I also personally don't use silicone sealer except at the corners- RTV tends to lube the gasket and allow it to squeeze out of position when the pan's tightened down. The 1-piece gasket will have instructions w/it- I believe the recommendation is to use it dry, IIRC. I know some builders still will use some RTV at the corners, for that matter, so does the factory.

I've read here the correct sealant for the pan/seal corners is GM part #12346141 or its equivalent. I believe there was another similar OTC (parts house) sealant, called "The Right Stuff".
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