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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 06:03 AM
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I sure wish we had a corporate oil 'person' here. I have read so many different stories on which oil is best - from Amsoil, Royal Purple, Lucas, etc, etc, etc. It got to the point that since none of it made much sense, I decided that my best bet - use what the vehicle manufacturer recommended. In my case, it ends up being Motorcraft Semi Synthetic for our daily drivers as well as my '31 with a 5.0 SB Ford. As far as fuel mileage, the full synthetic on my last truck with a 5.4, Mobil 1 helped a very little over standard dino oil, but not a bit over the Motorcraft. This truck, and the Guzzle V10, any help would be appreciated, but after 2-3 tries with the Mobil 1, went back to the recommended Motorcraft and saved ~$18/change. The one oil that I have found that WILL NOT work for me is Castrol . I will lose 2-3 quarts between changes - unacceptable when no other will "disappear" like that.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 07:40 AM
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I'm no oil expert nor do I play one on TV. I frequent a professional automotive group due to my job and have learned tons about oils. American standards are slack, at best. To put it bluntly, our only requirements to call dino oil "synthetic" are to basically run it through the refinement process an extra pass or 2. European countries are much stricter in qualifiers. No, not all synthetics (as we know them) try to get away with that, but many do, and it does make if hard to trust what you're buying. To my understanding, most of the top of the line oils making the claims ARE synthetic. Many others claim to be while only get refined an extra bit. The oil I sell in bulk claims to be a synthetic blend. I don't push it as such as I know better. To claim a "blend" might as well be an eyedropper to a tanker full. It's still good, but not what it claims to be.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 07:44 AM
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I'm not arguing "base stock" at all. I know all too well how it works with gasoline. But every company has their own additive pkg that is blended at the last step before packaging the final product. And I know that as far as trans fluid goes, Dexron has friction modifiers added to aid in smoothness of clutch engagement in the GM trannys, where as Ford's type F uses slippage withing the clutch discs and does not rely on the friction modifiers. To this day I use type F in my GM trannys as it resutls in less, slippage, wear, and aids in firmer shifts. I have no doubt that base stock is the same.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 08:32 AM
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Well I can say that when I worked for Western Auto I noticed several items were made by bigger companies and had the Western Auto name put on it. Shocks for instance were made by Monroe. If you looked closley at the print on the box you would see...Manufactured by Monroe for Western Auto.... the same was for their store brand oil. It was Havoline in a Western Auto bottle.

When I asked one of the reps about this he said that it's the bigger companies way of reaching the entire market. See some people will spend a couple dollars for the name brand and others wont because they need to save their money. So they look else where. By putting it in the Western Auto bottle they can reach the other group. He said it was like Havoline bottles for the Middle and Higher Class and Western Auto for the middle and Lower Class.

Kinda made since. See when I lost my job years ago I couldnt afford the name brand like I did before but knowing that most store made rands are made by bigger name brand companies then it didnt bother me to save money. Think about it.....Western Auto, Advance Auto, Oriely's and all the other stores do not have their own oil, shock, battery or any other type of manufacture plants.

The Monroe guy told me the same thing for the most part and the store brand carried the same exact warranty, so why spend the extra for the same product just for the name in some cases.

Now some may call BS on this but I really don't care....I know from being there and doing it. I can't speak for the Royal Purple or other brands but kinda makes me wonder if Havoline and Monore did it why not others.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 08:46 AM
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Using the manufacturers recommended weight and type of oil is always your best choice and will preserve you warranty. Changing it at the recommend interval and using a quality filter is also a key to long engine life.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The POW Bucket
Well I can say that when I worked for Western Auto I noticed several items were made by bigger companies and had the Western Auto name put on it. Shocks for instance were made by Monroe. If you looked closley at the print on the box you would see...Manufactured by Monroe for Western Auto.... the same was for their store brand oil. It was Havoline in a Western Auto bottle.

When I asked one of the reps about this he said that it's the bigger companies way of reaching the entire market. See some people will spend a couple dollars for the name brand and others wont because they need to save their money. So they look else where. By putting it in the Western Auto bottle they can reach the other group. He said it was like Havoline bottles for the Middle and Higher Class and Western Auto for the middle and Lower Class.

Kinda made since. See when I lost my job years ago I couldnt afford the name brand like I did before but knowing that most store made rands are made by bigger name brand companies then it didnt bother me to save money. Think about it.....Western Auto, Advance Auto, Oriely's and all the other stores do not have their own oil, shock, battery or any other type of manufacture plants.

The Monroe guy told me the same thing for the most part and the store brand carried the same exact warranty, so why spend the extra for the same product just for the name in some cases.

Now some may call BS on this but I really don't care....I know from being there and doing it. I can't speak for the Royal Purple or other brands but kinda makes me wonder if Havoline and Monore did it why not others.
RP is not concerned with reaching the normal driver. You can't compare cheap 30w to a racing oil, they are not the same. You may as well compare ATF and regular consumer motor oil. But many companies rebox their products- it is NO secret and it is done in every market not just the auto ones.

BTW a real bargain is the NAPA gold oil filters- they're Wix, which is the only filter worth using on anything you care about.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72
BTW a real bargain is the NAPA gold oil filters- they're Wix, which is the only filter worth using on anything you care about.
There are even cheaper versions of Wix filters (ProTec), but they aren't the same as in the Wix box. They are a secondary line. I use them with no issues even on my high $ Mustang, but they're just not the same. The NAPA Gold, I'm not sure if they're first or second line - likely second. If there's something in my engine these won't catch, I have bigger problems then the micron rating.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 09:19 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMatch
There are even cheaper versions of Wix filters (ProTec), but they aren't the same as in the Wix box. They are a secondary line. I use them with no issues even on my high $ Mustang, but they're just not the same. The NAPA Gold, I'm not sure if they're first or second line - likely second. If there's something in my engine these won't catch, I have bigger problems then the micron rating.

the silver and gold lines are both from wix, likely the silver line is the 2nd tier fiters they make. The only thing I don't run a wix on is an engine I really don't care about. I am a BIG time oil/filter fanatic when I worked as a mechanic I could see the difference every time a valve cover came off. For the extra $10 every oil change its worth stepping up to a good quality oil (I run mobil 1 in my DD's and Valvoline VR1 in my hotrods) and a good filter.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 10:41 AM
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My 1 Royal Purple story. Local big name engine builder had a customer that got sponsored by RP. Engine in the car was changed over to RP. Engine bearing failure happened on the first pass. The engine was freshened and repaired and dynoed with the oil they normally run. First pass in the car was on the usual oil. Oil was changed to RP and bearing failure happened on next pass. From then on, the car said RP on the side, but there was no RP in the engine.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 11:03 AM
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Motor oil is motor oil. As someone else has said, use the proper type, and change it at the recommended intervals, and all is good and slippery.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 12:05 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntnyL
Motor oil is motor oil. As someone else has said, use the proper type, and change it at the recommended intervals, and all is good and slippery.

Just like a piston is a piston? any 8 will work for any V8 engine?

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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72
Just like a piston is a piston? any 8 will work for any V8 engine?

Nah, I wouldn't compare pistons to motor oil, no. lol.

Like I said "use the proper type". Maybe you missed that part?
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 12:23 PM
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Taste test

I have given my engine a taste test. No results Yet. LoL
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 01:23 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntnyL
Nah, I wouldn't compare pistons to motor oil, no. lol.

Like I said "use the proper type". Maybe you missed that part?
Oh, so by leaving a very generalized disclaimer your original generalization applies to "everything sometimes, but not always, unless it does, but you're never sure?"

In that case anything liquid will work as long as you use the proper type.

There are many different grades, types, classifications, etc for oil- so which ones matter and which ones don't?
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 02:32 PM
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What a joke. Send in oil for analysis, use this synthetic over that synthetic. Change your oil at the intervals that are correct for the way you drive your vehicle. The typical condensation problems that dilute and denigrate oil additive packages in today's oil rarely happens in our cars because they are not subject to short duration drives before they are fully warmed up. Do any of you really think we need most of those additives in our oils? Aside from ZDPP, what do we need. Detergents? If you aren't going to change your oil every 5K miles (or less, depends how much you go cruising in a given year) you probably don't need them. This is just more of the typical hotrodder attitude that if a little is good, than more must be better. This leads to our overkilling everything about our rides. If a grade 5 bolt was used by the factory to bolt a subframe to a unibody, a grade 8 must be better. The list goes on.
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