Soldering Body Seams - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2010, 06:14 PM
FiveFeezy's Avatar
Fishing poles in the hot rod!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Richmond, CA
Posts: 109
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Soldering Body Seams

I just replaced the panel between the rear window and the trunk on my 1970 Monte Carlo. I tried to fill the body seams with solder but I could not get it to stay in there. I also could not get it to look decent. Are there any trick to this? I used soldering flux and lead free solder for copper pipes. Thanks.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2010, 06:35 PM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,039
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 433 Times in 364 Posts
forget soldering.... it takes a pro watching over you showing you the way,and even then it'll take time to get the nack of it....So after welding you can use a chopped fiberglass type filler or tigrhair (long strand fiberglass)grind it smooth then finish off with bondo...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2010, 07:55 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: California
Posts: 903
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
FiveFeezy,

The "trick" is to have the metal clean. So get everything out of the seam. I use a scratch awl and emery cloth. Then use some white vinegar to etch the metal. Then use some paste soldering flux and brush it on evenly. My choice of heat is a propane torch because it will get hot enough to melt the solder but not so hot as to "boil off" all the flux. The solder you want is 50/50 solder in a bar form. Now you must "tin" the metal. Heat the metal slowly just until the solder melts and flows onto the metal. You will need to use the flux brush to get the solder to flow evenly over the entire seam. Tin both sides of the seam. Once you have both sides tinned now you can join them with solder. Keeping the solder liquid is the tough part. Move the flame away then back into the solder. If you stay too long in one place with the torch ALL of the solder will flow out and you may want to scream. It is more of a dance than anything else. Once you have joined and filled the seam go over it one more time and then file it smooth. Once you are finished soldering let it cool and then using a rag soaked in vinegar clean the metal and then paint with primer.

Scholman
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2010, 08:34 PM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,039
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 433 Times in 364 Posts
If you do use body lead remember to use a respirator and gloves its hazardous breathe when sanding and it absorbs though your skin.wash your hands with a soap designed to remove toxic metals, like "hand kind" before you eat anything.East woods has a beginner body lead kit that has everything you need.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2010, 11:23 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 312
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 11 Posts
For lead work it's the flux that really made the difference, 'Tinstyter' is no longer to be found but you can Google 'Ruby Fluid', works well.

Solder for bodywork was 20tin/80lead, 50/50 is a bit too hot to work with, may warp the panels. You'll need to have it custom made, it's not sold any longer.

Use a cotton rag when tinning NOT steel wool, steel wool polutes the leadwork.

Federated - Fry metals
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2010, 08:43 AM
FiveFeezy's Avatar
Fishing poles in the hot rod!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Richmond, CA
Posts: 109
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Ok, well I guess I'm going to give up on the solder and use a different filler. What do you all think of using epoxy paste? Would that be stronger and less prone to cracking/shrinking than plastic filler?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2010, 09:19 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,039
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 433 Times in 364 Posts
Paste???? you mean glue?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2010, 09:28 AM
FiveFeezy's Avatar
Fishing poles in the hot rod!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Richmond, CA
Posts: 109
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I guess you could call it glue. It comes in two separate cans and is the consistancy of peanut butter. It is super strong stuff.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2010, 09:37 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,039
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 433 Times in 364 Posts
I'll let someone else answer that one ,I've never used the stuff....I would use tiger hair on that seam .....
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2010, 09:42 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,006
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 714
Thanked 1,080 Times in 963 Posts
Hold on here now, are you looking at "Moulding" a body seam over that was EXPOSED from the factory or are you moulding a seam over that was hidden by lead from the factory?

As I remember on that upper rear body panel to quarter panels there was a small seam that was filled with seam sealer from the factory. DO NOT try to mould that smooth!!! It WILL fail, I don't care what you use, it WILL fail!

If you want it gone, weld it up first before you mould it. But lead, "epoxy filler" polyester filler, kitty hair, I don't care what you use, it WILL fail!

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2010, 10:24 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,039
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 433 Times in 364 Posts
Good point brian,I was under the impression it was a factory leaded seam ....."NOT" one of these...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_5981 (Small).jpg
Views:	982
Size:	37.8 KB
ID:	44533   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_5989 (Small).jpg
Views:	136
Size:	25.6 KB
ID:	44534  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2010, 11:04 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,006
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 714
Thanked 1,080 Times in 963 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Good point brian,I was under the impression it was a factory leaded seam ....."NOT" one of these...



Boy, I have heard of people getting creative with non-automotive products!

Newbes, DO NOT use pineapple juice as a wax and grease remover!!

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2010, 11:36 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,039
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 25
Thanked 433 Times in 364 Posts
Pineapple juice??????? ROFLMAO,you got me on that one there.... touche That was funny ,I dont care who you are....LOL ... You should see what dog food does for mixing paint..LOL.Wait till you see how many uses I can find for a roll of toilet paper....... I know what your thinking ...."NEW TOILET PAPER" Of coarse...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_6466 (Small).jpg
Views:	119
Size:	47.1 KB
ID:	44546   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_6455 (Small).jpg
Views:	126
Size:	25.6 KB
ID:	44547  

Last edited by deadbodyman; 03-15-2010 at 11:43 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2010, 07:07 PM
FiveFeezy's Avatar
Fishing poles in the hot rod!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Richmond, CA
Posts: 109
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
It is that exact seam in the picture with the pineapple juice. Both panels fold down 90 degrees and are spot welded together underneath. The gap that is left is filled with lead from the factory. I cleaned the old lead out myself. When I put the new panel in, I spot welded it on the lip that folds down 90 degrees, just like it originally was. Now I am trying to fill/seal the crack that remains from the top.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2010, 10:16 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,006
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 714
Thanked 1,080 Times in 963 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by FiveFeezy
It is that exact seam in the picture with the pineapple juice. Both panels fold down 90 degrees and are spot welded together underneath. The gap that is left is filled with lead from the factory. I cleaned the old lead out myself. When I put the new panel in, I spot welded it on the lip that folds down 90 degrees, just like it originally was. Now I am trying to fill/seal the crack that remains from the top.
That seam was not filled by lead at the factory. At least no GM car I have ever worked on (and I did a LOT of those cars) there was seam sealer there, that is it. If it got welded and leaded it was a lap style weld but a "pinch weld" like that was never moulded over from what I remember.

If you do want to mould it over I would weld the whole seam, that style seam is just going to fail if you do anything else.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Time for some body work Infinite Body - Exterior 3 09-18-2008 09:52 PM
HELP cracks on fiberglass body! Adamrmr Body - Exterior 22 04-23-2008 09:35 AM
I need help mounting a body to frame where it does not belong! (pics inside) fiscus Body - Exterior 9 11-27-2007 05:41 PM
How to on Body Off Build? joeford Hotrodding Basics 3 05-09-2006 07:29 PM
Body off question... joeford Hotrodding Basics 1 05-07-2006 07:26 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:38 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.