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Old 10-01-2006, 06:06 PM
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soldering/brazing and warping

is it dangerours to solder a flat panel like a fender? I am worried about warpage.
I went from this


to this


and I want to flatten the welding seams


also is this soldering stuff the same thing plumbers use to connect plumbing tubes together?

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Old 10-01-2006, 06:42 PM
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Could lead it, like you mentioned, worked 50 years ago, should still work fine!!
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Old 10-01-2006, 06:58 PM
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use plastic Filler. Lead altho takes a lot of talent to do, has health risks, and with the advent of plastic filler, there's no need of killing yourself.
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Old 10-01-2006, 07:06 PM
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Lead (solder) is not quite like the stuff you use on copper pipes, it comes in larger sticks and has a little different mix to it , which makes it harden better, yes you can lead it and it will work great, just watch your heat, it does not take near the heat that you put to the repair as when welding, be sure to get some good tinning for the panel to help clean an helps it to stick better, Please make sure you have good ventilation, perfer you do it outside as the fumes are still dangerous and you don't want to breath them, you can set up a fan to blow over the area as you do your work. If you have never leaded before this will be good experiance for you start at the top when leading and its good to have the proper tools to do it with, good luck and its looking great

30dee
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Old 10-01-2006, 07:08 PM
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isn't lead considered to last longer compared to fillers?
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Old 10-01-2006, 07:19 PM
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On an area like that, there is no good reason to even attempt to lead that. The body fillers of today are far more superior than the old days. If you prep the area with 80 grit and spray epoxy, then apply body filler, it should outlast you.

If you do not know what you are doing, lead work can cause 2 particular problems that you don't want. First there is a chance of warping the panels. The other problem is that you can end up with corrosion that you don't want or need.

Aaron
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Old 10-01-2006, 07:24 PM
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corrosion? why is that? I will spray epoxy no matter if it's lead or plastic filler. I just don't want plastic filler to crack because of excessive thickness (1-2mm at same spots).
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Old 10-01-2006, 07:36 PM
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Any time you do lead work you must tin the area that you are going to lead, if this tinning if not cleaned off properly it will cause the corrozion to start in fast, you need a good wax and grease cleaner to clean the tinning off but you should be doing that anytime you are going to paint. And yes you have to watch your heat when leading to prevent warpage. adtkart is right about the new body filler and it will last close to forever also. I just like to lead, but even I use body fill for the skim coat at the last.

30dee
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Old 10-01-2006, 07:41 PM
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Plastic filler gets most of it's bad rep from ither people who use it/ mix it improperly or use Bondo brand ( bottom shelf quality ) or both. if you put it on in thick layers, it will crack. if you use several thin layers, even bondo brand will last a long time. a local paint store can get you good filler, there are several brands and consistancy's. Napa sells some professional quality fillers.
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Old 10-01-2006, 07:45 PM
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so where is soldering considered to be useful?
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Old 11-03-2006, 12:56 PM
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hm one more thing. Will soldering burn the ecoat at the other side of the panel I am melting?

Last edited by bitor; 11-03-2006 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 11-03-2006, 01:59 PM
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To answer your last two questions.
Lead is useful for areas that are exposed physical stress such as the edges of hood or door openings. In those areas the lead is much more resistant to chipping.
The heat from leading will burn off the ecoat on the back of the panel, but since you have already done extensive welding the ecoat is already gone.
Finally, when you lead correctly the metal is never heated to red hot so no shrinking or warpage should occur. The metal may swell slightly as it heats up but if you let it cool naturally it will return to its original shape.
If you want more information on leading or want to try your hand at it, Eastwood sells several kits and some include a video that is pretty good.
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Old 11-28-2006, 10:38 AM
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I was out for supplies yesterday morning. So I said, what the heck, time for the soldering stuff. So...I bought lead...ok with that, 60/40.
When I asked for soldering paint the guy brought this and said this is what I needed...
http://cgi.ebay.de/Flussmittel-Loete...QQcmdZViewItem

In translation it's "fluxing agent". Is it of any use for me? I think that plumbers use it but doesn't look like the soldering paint I was watching in some videos regarding car restos. No tinning on the surface at all...so...any ideas?
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:15 PM
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I'll take a stab at this, if you are going to lead then bend two pieces of metal at 90deg and weld them together and practice filling the seam and as been said fumes are bad where heavy gloves and go slow. Now days the manufactures use a putty to fill the seams rather then using lead. my 64 stang was leaded at the roof and quarter line, I have no idea when they quit leading. I can say this my son-in-law uses filler on the bumper of his late model to extend the repalcement time and that filler will stay on and not crack, something to think about.
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Old 12-01-2006, 12:16 AM
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Bitor, I used to do assembly line soldering for GM in the late 70's. Leading is a artform, Once you get the heat figured out, It's pretty easy to do just don't get it too hot or you will waste a lot of lead. Try not to breathe the fumes and wear gloves, Lead can make you very sick I know because I have had lead posioning before and it no joke, It takes years to get it out of your system. Make sure you use a good cleaner before you spray anything on it because it will cause corrosion and come back to haunt you. Take your time with it and good luck. Perry.
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